You must have Garmin computer? I have only wahoo. Can this be done another way?
Whenever I reinstall the pedals on any bike.
You might be able to reset angles on your wahoo, garmin connect does not have that option.
ā¦Waiting for Favero to give us a MTB power pedal we can rely on!
Thank you!
thatās a long wait my man
Left pedal body broke from a very light rock strike, this time it seams it is the spring that broke rather then the pedal body metalā¦ So third thing to go wrong in 6 monthsā¦ DO NOT BUY IF YOU WILL USE FOR XC
Thankfully - their customer support has been good and easy to deal with so far
sadly i have to agree here. i bought the x200s last summer and by the end of the summer i had to return them. the bodies are just too thick for any serious offroad riding. i was hitting rocks all the time and while mine didnāt break, the possibility was always there. iād say i hit rocks with my normal pedals (eggbeater 11s) maybe once every dozen or so rides. with the garmins it was literally every ride. now, that MAY have lessened as i got used to them and adjusted my ride style, but stillā¦
funny thing is that was not the reason i returned them. i was experiencing serious power drift during temperature changes. calibrated before the ride when it was maybe 70 degrees, but by mid ride the data was all over the place as the temps got to the 90s
the REAL funny thing is that iām actually considering getting them again. thereās literally no other viable option on the market for trail riding.
They newest firmware/ software whatever you want to call it seemed to have fixed the power drift for me.
Iāve bashed mine a bunch of times and havenāt had anything break. Sucks to hear that and hopefully wonāt happen to me.
Something like a quarq or power2max doesnāt have options for you?
Wouldnāt a crank arm PM work and be somewhat portable? 4iiii PRECISION Power Meter Shimano XTR FC-M9000 | The Pro's Closet
To be fair at least Garmin replaced them no questions asked - Iāll probably stick using the XC100s until my warranty expires in 1.5 years time because no way in hell iād risk having to spend 100-200 USD every time i brake a pedal (twice now)ā¦ amongst other issues like drop outsā¦
I pedal strike a lot! Once per ride at-least, but I do pretty light XC on natural trails and weigh just under 65kg - so I donāt think I put any additional stress than what they are supposedly designed to do!
What crank length are you using? It could be that or just technique, but I wouldnāt expect to strike once a ride.
175mm - Iād definitely look to upgrade to 170mm cranks.
Of course it depends on the type of terrain and riding you do. I ride lots of natural trails with a lot of tech climbing. I never had any issues breaking a pedal previouslyā¦
Yeah, 175 is long. Iād also give some thought to whether youāre mashing when you should be floating or ratcheting. I donāt mean to sound overly critical, we all have things to work on, especially when it comes to mtb technique!
Yes could be - I am relatively new so have loads to work on. I still donāt think 2 broken pedals is a good sign.
Just checking my bike geometry. The BB drop/height is 65mm - whereas other short travel bikes seem closer to 45mm. So i think the low BB combined with a thick pedal and 175mm cranks make it more susceptible to pedal strikes.
no, iām rocking an elite, top of the line Sram XX drivetrainā¦from 2011. i looked into left crank arm PMs from Stages and others and I donāt think any are compatible
How much space do you have between your crankarm and chainstay? I bet it can fit. Is that a 156 (130mm inside arm to arm) or 168mm crank (141mm)?
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/road/2021-road-frame-fit-specifications.pdf (using Rival alloy and Force carbon)
Road Q factor is 145 (carbon) or 150 (alloy) on 86.5 spindle. The MTB is 156 on 3mm more of spindle. Some of that Q factor difference is spindle is crankarm dimension. The road cranks are built around a 86.5 spindle and the MTB spec 91.5mm, so for the non-drive crankarm subtract 3mm. Youāre looking at 151mm (MTB) vs 150/145mm (-1mm to +2mm per side). On the outside, if your go carbon, youād just run a pedal washer on the PM side if youāre anal about it.
Now insideā¦ Take the W3 or W5 measurement minus the spindle half
MTB Road (carbon) Clearance change NDS
chainstay inside clearance 19mm ~16.7mm = -2mm
MTB Road (alloy) Clearance change NDS
chainstay inside clearance 19mm ~17.6mm = -1.5mm
Iām thinking you should be OK, the MTB crank arm is just a bit narrower on the inside by 2mm or so. Just add that to the Stages clearance test. If you go carbon, run a pedal washer.
Having said all thatā¦ a used Stages GXP is $200 - 300; new is too much.
ALso this - 2016 Stages X9 GXP 170 Power Meter For Sale https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3237708/
A rival wide PM DUB is $370, but youāll need to run a DUB BB ($40). Itād got a touch narrower chainline you can compensate for with a spacer or running a 11/12sp chain. You probably also need to change the gearing ($100). So youāre at $500.
Assomio Uno + pedal body = $386+ 100.
Wrapped up a couple of long (for me) gravel rides these past two weekends in New England. My XC 200 pedals have been solid. I received a low battery warning the morning of my event last weekend but the pedals were fine for all 5 hours of the ride. I forget how much time you have left when you get the warning, but all was well. I have them on a Diverge (2019) and 170mm cranks. My only remaining issue is some intermittent dropping of Cycling Dynamics. It happens primarily on indoor rides. I have not captured it on outdoor rides and am still working with Garmin Support on the issue.
When calibrating is it normal a 0.03 or -0.03 will appear for a few seconds? I donāt mean the first number shown. But my number is still moving ever so slightly after zeroing.
Yes, thatās normal.