Using TR and Zwift Concurrently

Hi there,

I use TR as my main training tool and for workouts. I run Zwift concurrently to alleviate the loneliness and boredom. However, I have started a new base program and completed two workouts. One of those workout is showing on the MacOS app, but not on the Calendar (in IOS or web version). Moreover, the default seems to be to record the zwift ride as an “outdoor ride”. Is there no way 1. To give TR workouts priority when recording in the calendar? and 2. Why aren’t my rides syncing appropriately in my calendar?

Many thanks

1 Like
  1. No, there is no automatic way to set source priority.
  • Basic order of operation to end the TR workout first and let that upload, then close the Zwift session and accept that ride (so it can go to Strava or other linked services if you want), is best.
  • Alternatively, simply “Discard” the Zwift ride when done.
  1. Not sure on that. Best to contact with specifics.

I use both and follow these 2 options:

  1. I keep the ride based on the “source” of the ride (whichever app controls the trainer resistance):
    a) If I am doing a TR workout, with Zwift for entertainment, I keep the TR workout on TR & keep the Zwift ride on Strava.
    b) If I am doing a Zwift event or race, I keep the Zwift ride in TR and Strava.

Put differently,

  • In Strava: I always keep Zwift rides.
  • In TrainerRoad: I keep whichever was the “source” of the ride or workout that controls the resistance on the trainer (TR for workouts, Z for “rides”).

For reference:


Regarding #1, I run both applications together and at the end of my session when I close Zwift, I ‘discard’ the Zwift workout so it doesn’t go to Strava. That prevents it from being sent back to Trainerroad, so my calendar and TSS only reflect the Trainerroad workout.

edit: this should be similar if you are syncing w/ Garmin Connect and not Strava

1 Like

Thanks Chad. I am currently “setup” properly but I guess it still doesn’t address why my calendar isn’t syncing and 2. if it does sync it pulls the Zwift workout first under “outdoor ride”. I use the strava/zwift to calculate distance. TR still doesn’t have the distance feature or does it?

1 Like

Yeah I thought about that, but then how do get distance, or is that not a concern of yours?

Yup. I got pulled away and posted a place holder for starters. See the updated post above for the specific answers to your two questions.

1 Like

Yeah, not a concern of mine personally.

I use Strava and the TR activity reports distance (probably rotation & wheel circumference from the trainer) so I have something there. Since I tend to use my little ring on the trainer, its a bit lower than what I would cover outdoors for the same power & duration. In that respect, Zwift distance (power & simulated gradient) would be better, but that’s not really real either. :wink:

1 Like

I let both rides go to TR and edit ride on whichever recording is least complete to take it out of TSS and PRs. I pull rides into Golden Cheetah too (because I’m detail oriented) and GC shows little (<1%) variance with TR (comparing Zwift and head unit in GC to TR’s numbers). While the three devices may get different samples, differences average out quickly given the number of samples.

I also let both rides go to Strava. If the rides are close enough (start, end, total time, possibly phase of the moon and other variables), Strava will match the rides and I get the TR graph attached to the Zwift ride. If they don’t match, I keep the Zwift ride on Strava because virtual kms for challenges that allow virtual and I got tired of trying to calibrate the trainer wheel circumference.


Check if your trainer sends speed/cadence signal. Almost all new trainers have this possibility.

I also run the two concurrently and find it helps me complete my TR workouts. I only keep one (TR)ride on my Calendar. When I find another ride is synched, I simply delete it and reload the TR ride, so I only have TR rides on the calendar unless it is a real outdoor ride.

1 Like

Except Wahoo trainers, they power/speed but not cadence. Wahoo provided a separate cadence sensor with my Kickr 2017.

1 Like

Slightly off topic question, but figured I could ask this here instead of creating a new thread. I have been attempting to use Trainerroad through ANT+ on my laptop with ANT+ stick, using a Hammer trainer, while pairing Zwift with bluetooth through Apple TV. But I’m having trouble finding a reliable way to do this without the programs fighting each other for control. Is it pertinent to start one application before the other?

Trainerroad is set to ERG mode and works flawlessly on its own. When attempting to pair with zwift through bluetooth it seems like trainerroad relinquishes control even if not selecting controllable trainer on zwift. Other times it seems like they both cancel each other out and puts it into a freeride mode. I’ve tried starting one program before the other and vice versa, but just cant quite figure it out.

I’ve just been turning zwift off and going back to youtube videos and doing my workouts on trainerroad, but would like to add zwift just from the entertainment standpoint. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong?

1 Like

I’m using the Hammer trainer for my Zwift/TR rides. This is how I approach it, and things have been working for me.

I open Zwift first. I have Zwift connect to the trainer via ANT+ for speed and cadence. I then open up TR and verify the Hammer connects via Bluetooth. I start the workout, expand the workout to full screen so I can then select the minimal window option. I drag the TR back to my desktop — I’m working on a Mac laptop — move TR to the bottom of my screen and reposition and resize Zwift appropriately.

I’ve done this for five or six workouts and can see that the power display is the same in both programs and that the wattage adjust according to the target in TR.

Hope this helps.

Make absolutely certain that you deselect the Hammer from the “Controllable Trainer” box in Zwift.

It MUST NOT be paired in the “CT” box, or TR & Z will fight to control the Hammer.

You can have it paired in the “Power Meter” box.


I’ve done this in the past using a Windows PC and ANT+ stick. I used ANT+ and TrainerRoad and then ran Zwift on the PC and used the Bluetooth from my Android phone and the companion app. This is pairing to my Cyclops Magnus.

Previously that worked fine. I tried to do it again this weekend and was unable to get it to work. It seemed to me that no matter which order I opened the apps, Zwift would always go grab control of the trainer via BT. Even after I then deselected it my Magnus was stuck in Bluetooth control mode and required a power cycle.

I eventually ran out of time to do both my workout and IT support so gave up and just Trainer Roaded it and watched videos. It seems like something may have changed on one end or the other (TR/Zwift). I’ll want to try it again when I have more time to troubleshoot.

I got this to work for my last workout, and here’s what I did. Opened zwift and paired everything, making sure “Controllable Trainer” was unclicked. Opened trainer road and made sure everything was paired, and started workout. At this point trainer road erg mode was not in control as I started riding. I closed zwift and continued riding on trainer road, and within 15 seconds or so, trainer road erg mode took control and kicked in. I then re opened zwift and quickly clicked past the pairing screen, as to not allow it to auto select “controllable trainer”. Everything worked from here on out in the workout.

For reference, I am using ANT+ stick on laptop running trainer road pairing to hammer trainer, and Apple TV running bluetooth for zwift, pairing to hammer trainer.

1 Like


I do this all the time as I find that the “Eye Candy” effect of Zwift helps the intervals.

I always start TR first and pair it. Then open Zwift and, as others have said make sure there is nothing paired in the controllable trainer box. Since TR is driving there never is in my case but I still check it.

It works every time.


1 Like

To those who discard the ride in Zwift - does that keep the XP points achieved during the session? I am guessing so as they are allocated as you add an extra mile/km

I don’t think the xp points are saved if ride is discarded. If you’re not looking for the Zwift ride to show up on strava etc. just make sure Zwift isn’t synced to any other sites and saving the ride will upload to your Zwift history. Some people like to keep their Zwift ride on strava for the slight elevation bump.

My xp and challenge progress is saved even if I discard the ride (PC). However, if you force close zwift without ending the ride you might lose some or all xp/miles/elevation. Next ride take a look at your xp # before you end the ride, then discard and start zwift again to confirm if its the same.