TrainerRoad and Zwift together?

Yep me too :+1:

Think I paid around £300 for one that had a graphics card capable of the highest graphics settings on Zwift.

Have mine hooked up to hand me down 40inch TV also.

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Any recommendations appreciated…

I thought the same on my first reading but he does say this…

Additionally, you can also do this on a single laptop/computer with either an ANT+ stick, or if using a KICKR18/20/CORE/BIKE, then all via Bluetooth Smart. For that you can just follow either Option A or Option B, but then just resize the windows to your liking.

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Check out ZPCMR on facebook, great resource for specing a PC for Zwift use.

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Anyone know the best way to run Zwift with trainer control off a PC and TR without trainer control?

Normally I obviously leave TR in control of the turbo and turnoff "controllable in Zwift. But I’m recovering from illness and I am doing some really easy TR rides, thought it would be more interesting to leave Zwift in control of the resistance and do the power matching myself.

Basically whats the equivalent of having ā€œcontrollableā€ turned off in TR? Ive tried putting TR into ā€œStandardā€ mode (instead of Erg), but something doesnt feel quite right, it feels like TR is still trying to take the resistance off

I guess it would have been easiest to just run it as an outside workout off my Garmin

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I haven’t tried this, but couldnt you switch TR from ERG to resistance mode & have the trainer be controlable in Zwift? If that doesnt work then your idea of doing it as a outside workout is probably a good idea.

Haven’t done this in a while but on the iPad at least I used to be able to achieve this by starting Zwift up, connecting everything fully in there with controllable and get to the road. Then turn TR on and I think it doesn’t retake control but it has been a while so I could be wrong. Worth a try.

Reading the description of ā€œresistance modeā€, that seems to try and hold the trainer at a constant resistance? Its meant to simulate a fixed resistance on a magnetic trainer at least.

Standard mode sort of worked (thats meant to simulate a fluid trainer where the resistance increases as the wheel speed goes up), but it did feel like the resistance was being taken off every few seconds.

Next time I’ll just use the Garmin, but I was in the middle of the ride already there. I just kind of assumed TR would also have an easy option for record-only power.

What desktop did you get? Would be interested in any recommendations!

I just got a pre built from eBay - similar (but not exactly the same as) this one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultra-Fast-Gaming-PC-i5-16GB-RAM-SSD-500GB-HDD-GTX-1050-Ti-/373974940595?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

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I run TR and Zwift together …run TR on iPad and mirror it to my LG OLED…then I place it Picture in Picture and use Zwift on my Apple TV. Have trainerroad take care of the trainer control and hrm…then have kicker core and cadence highlighted on Zwift.

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Nice one- thanks for the tip :+1:

I do very similar except just leave TR on my iPad (connected via BLE) and then Zwift on my PC to my TV all connected via Ant+. Just be sure to keep the controllable trainer in Zwift off (lower right connection).

The ipad can only connect to one bluetooth, I tried, for the two programs running on the ipad trainerroad and zwift, only one program can connect to bluetooth. How did you achieve simultaneous connection?

What Kickr are you running

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thinkrider just offer one blueteethšŸ˜‚

Tried reading through this to find an aswer but I’m still stuck.

My goal is run TR using powermtach (Saris H3 and Power2max NGEco) and also run Zwift. I would run TR in erg mode and have it control everything but I’d still like to see my ride in Zwift (only power, not controlled)

I’ve sucessfully done this without powermatch have my H3 in TR with erg and NGEco on zwift but is it doable with powermatch?

All the answers I’ve read above seem to mention Ant+ on a computer but I do not have any Ant+ dongles for my 2012 MacBook Air.

unfortunately bluetooth connections are singular so unless your device (trainer or pedals) broadcasts multiple signals you can only have one connection per. Since TR is using both the trainer and the pedal connection, you’ll need to use the ANT+ protocol for any additional connections. The good news is Ant+ dongles aren’t a huge investment. The garmin one sells on Amazon for $34US or about the same as a wheel or cadence sensor. Should work with Macbook fine.

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Or you can use an NPE CABLE to convert the ANT+ signal into a second Bluetooth signal. That’s how I run TR and Zwift together and it works perfectly.

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