@armonds002
No, use was on gravel roads. Road spray but no submersion or super muddy use.
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Thanks again for the schematic. Did the CXR conversion today with Loctite and everything seems to be working as expected. Power numbers in line with stock, including L/R balance and PCO 
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As informed by the manufacturer, all electronic components
are sealed resin mold: * The bicomponent resin block, fully watertight and shock-proof, in which all the electronic components of the sensor are immersed and protected.
It would be interesting to learn, if power meters can survive in really harsh conditions.
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After hacking a pair of iSSi Flash III’s for my MTB I’ve decided to try the same stance width on my gravel bike. Anybody have a set of 64.5mm iSSi Flash III spindles they are willing to sell or maybe trade for a set of the 52.5s or 58.5s spindles? Thanks.
I’ve been debating getting the XC200 for while on my gravel bike but ended up getting a pair of ISSI III to hack my current Favero. Hope this turns out ok!
Main question, is it easy to revert to swap back and put the road pedals bodies back?
Just bought a replacement set of bearings for Duo-Shi pedals. Noticed after about 5 rides a “tiny” bit of play on the pedal axle. And torqued everything to spec when I did the bearing replacement. Assuming I can just re-tighten then. Curious how much play is considered normal in others’ experience.
I know this thread is a bit long in the tooth but for the favero duo-shi hack…do you really need two sensors? Meaning could I just buy a replacement ‘shi’ from favero and put it in one pedal…kinda like how you can buy a single or dual sided favero road pedals?
So I’m not sure where to put this, but is anyone having a problem with the pedal body coming loose from the spindle? I noticed some play in it yesterday and after spinning by hand a couple times could pull the body off.
Really concerned right now.
A little more info is needed.
- Is this a stock out of the box favero pedal?
- Is this a modified Favero and if so what pedal body, and how was it assembled (bearings, washers etc)?
- How many miles are on it?
- Was the end cap and retaining nut missing?
Ah sorry. So this is after doing the hack using CXR pedals.
Assioma spindle
CXR o ring
CXR body
Assioma retainer nut
CXR dust cap
I tightened it Tuesday night and did a short Cyclocross ride Wednesday. 8 miles and the body is loose.
I’m going to try to add loctite tonight.
I have my Assioma Duos converted to MTB SPD and used them on my MTB for like a dozen rides but kept striking them on rocks or small (~2”) tree stumps. I decided that sooner or later it was going to break them so I needed a better solution.
The Sigeyi AXO crank spider based power meter is just as accurate as my Duos in pavement riding and actually more accurate for MTB riding, since the Duos tend to count standing and pumping as power output even though cadence is zero. Plus the AXO is half the cost.
See details here. Sigeyi Power meter? - #111 by huges84
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The loctite is definitely needed unless you use the torque as required but then it will bind… so i went down the loctite and it works perfectly.
Long time reader, first time poster, just wanted to contribute by saying I used the Bontrager Comp bodies on my Assiomas and have had zero issues. Power readings are accurate as ever (compared vs my turbo), bodies don’t come loose over time, didn’t use loctite or anything. Rode them for about 1000km by now over tarmac, gravel, and cobbles.
Edit: opened these up to check after some very dusty offroad rides fearing that some would have entered between the bodies and spindles but nope, nothing at all. Put some loctite on the spindle bolts just in case but they were as tight as when I first put them on.
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Hi, the bontrager comp pedals inner bearing is a ball bearing or a needle bearing?
I mean, the only one pedal who has the same bearings that assioma ones are are xpedo mt8?
thanks
Trek website says “Sealed cartridge bearings provide smooth, reliable feel” which is what the Assioma and Xpedo both use.
Nice to know there is another alternative SPD compatible pedal for when my Xpedo wears out in a couple of years. 
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https://analyze.dcrainmaker.com/#/public/51abf7f4-14af-4660-7146-f1983a3d8e41
https://analyze.dcrainmaker.com/#/public/8e5e0398-7f53-43b5-5801-c928fe267ce8
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Wuuut!?! Are those PD-M9100 pedal bodies + Assioma Duo-Shi spindles? The hex flats next to the pedal body look bigger than the stock PD-M9100 part and also different from the hex that comes on the Duo-Shi spindles – what sorcery is this!!!
It’s PD-M9100 pedal bodies + Assioma “Duo” spindles.I actually re-designed the whole system inside and made them in titanium hex locknuts.
I think it’s not quite proper for pods to be used in super muddy or rocky roads,because pods would be hit inevitably.
It should be okay to use it on gravel roads or some roads not that severe.
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I bought bontrager comp pedals (used). The outside is one ball bearing. Inside they have one teflon bushing. No ball bearings like xpedo mforce8.
Please anyone who tell me this measure in xpedo pedals?
I’ve tried the Bontrager Comp swap. I just swapped Bontrager axle and Assioma axle. No bearing/washer swap whatsoever.
I’ve gone through several pages in this thread, but I couldn’t’ find information regarding the issues I’ve found.
My findings are as followed:
Bontrager Axle is shorter then Assioma axle
Thus, Bontrager pedal with Assioma axle is 4 mm longer in summary. Which can be an issue, but it’s not a showstopper.
However, there is a lot of bearing clearance. To much clearance to drive the pedals.
Anyone else experiencing the same issue? Do I need to swap bearings as well? Thanks.
Edit:
Just for the records.
Bontrager Comp Pedal has just one sealed bearing.
The other bearing seems to be ceramic.
Ceramic bearing has 10 mm diameter.
Sealed bearing has 6 mm diameter.
Which is the same diameter as Favero has on the Assiomas. However, I was not successful in eliminating the bearing clearance. Thus I’m going to try the Xpedo M-force 3 pedals.
