The Nukeproof pedals DO NOT work. They are too wide. Soon as I took out the axle I could tell it was a lot longer. Wasn’t even close.
Now to decide if I want to just use my Issi pedals…or get some of the Baldwins for the fat bike. Based on experiences here, it sounds like the issi are a better option for getting in and out of.
With plaform around the Baldwin, it might not be so bad? The iSSi clips just feel “smoother” to get into.
I just fitted the M-Force 8 bodies to the Assioma spindle. I tried moving the O-ring washer near the crank from the M-Force 8 to power spindle but after tightening the axle nut, the pedal body would bind. So I just went with the original Assioma (non-O-ring) washer and it seemed to work well; little play and spins well at 9Nm.
The Assioma washer is just a little thinner and lower profile than the M-Force 8 washer with the O-ring, so I am not surprised it makes a difference.
I had to use an adjustable wrench (mini vise) and a block of wood to bang out the M-Force 8 O-ring washeer. The Assioma spindle appears to not be tapered like the M-Force 8 spindle which has a friction fit.
BTW the Assioma original was something like 308g and the new Frankenstein weighed 327g , both with one crank spacer washer per pedal.
Not had it on the road yet, but I think it will work great. This is brand new Assioma and a nearly new M-force 8.
I have the RX-8 shoes with the Xpedo cleats, but haven’t fitted/trimmed them yet for the spindle blob.
Let me know if anyone sees a problem with using the Assioma spacer/washer with the M-force 8 body. GPLama video used the original Assioma washer but suggested an improvement to swap and use the O-ring, but I didn’t see he tried it.
BTW - thanks to all for the tips and videos on swapping pedal bodies… this is going to be so good for gravel! I bought a second Duo for gravel because I (surprisingly) decided I really like the road pedals on my road bike after 25+ years on SPD.
I had a similar issue with my conversion yesterday. I am using a brand new Favero and brand new XPEDO CXR.
I replaced the FAVERO pedal with the CXR following the schematic below. The parts in RED SOLID LINE (Pedal and End cap) were replaced with the XPEDO equivalent. The bearings shown in dotted line are part of the pedal assembly, hence there were also replaced as I changed the pedals.
The main issue I am having is with the yellow boxed items. I took the Oil retainer from the FAVERO and installed it with the XPEDO pedal body. When I tried tightening the M6 nut, I ended up with the pedal binding before I reached the 9Nm recommended.
Should we not include the oil retainer? or include it but lower the torque?
Most of us with the CXR used Blue Loctite instead of a 9 Nm tightening torque. Problem solved.
Btw, seriously nice schematic you’ve put up.
I am going down the Loctite route as well!
Thank you!
PS: I have updated the schematic for future use by others:
To complete the M-Force 8 conversion story, I trimmed my size 46 RX8 shoes just a bit. I might have gotten away with no trimming, but I figured the pedals are worth more than the shoes.
Last time a tried to do the conversion I ordered a single left axle. What is not included when you just order single axle ist the oil retainer! Is the conversion possible without using the oil retainer or is it possible to just order the oil retainer as a single spare part. I know tht it is included in the bearing-kit. But to me is doesn’t make sense to order complete kit when all I need is the retainer!?
@stabby408 Which pedal body are you using? If the CXR, then use the o-ring from the CXR and skip the oil retainer all together.
See here
Does anyone know if this same hack can be done with either the Time ATAC MTB pedals or the XPRO road pedals?
This seems obvious, but if I do this with my Uno set I can just modify the left and use the right CXR pedal as stock? Or get really odd and leave my Shimano pedal on the right.
Depends (our favorite start to so many answers here)…
The pedal will obviously install and be fine on the right.
The question that must be answered… is the location of the pedal center between both pedal spindles the same or different?
Essentially, the left-right spacing (from the shoulder of the pedal spindle threads to the cleat center) may or may not be the same.
Makes sense, I will measure. Maybe I will keep the left Uno stock, install a Shimano SPD on the right, wear a road shoe left, a mtb shoe right, and hop around on one foot when it’s time for hike a bike.
I did this but with the M-Force 4 pedals (Uno on the left - I actually just bought a left pedal from Assioma, unmodified M-Force 4 on the right). It has worked fine so far for me with no perceived issues. While I definitely agree with Chad’s points, I personally took the approach of just trying it and seeing if I had an issue, knowing that if I did, this could be an explanation for it worth exploring.
If you use the XPEDO as your other pedal you’ll be fine. The whole reason for using them is the axle is almost identical, and you are using the same pedal body, so the pedal Q factor will be almost identical. If it has any difference and it actually bothers you, you can shift your cleats slightly side to side to make them the same
Thanks to all the legends for pioneering this hack! I’ve been tracking it for a while, and finally decided to take the dive after finding some Baldwin’s on eBay for $30.
As a mechanical engineer with a background in designing shafts and bearings, I thought I’d provide some insight into the layout of the 2 pedals I have, and how they fit together from an axial stackup perspective. See the attached layouts and explanations.
Ultimately, I chose to go with the method without the oil retainer on the crank side. This method matches the assembly method of the stock Assioma pedals, and allows for proper nut torque to be applied. I don’t trust Loctite by itself to hold the nut on in all conditions over time (though, I didn’t do so great in chemistry either!)
The only concern of this method is premature failure of the crank side bearings. However, the XPEDO bearings should provide decent life because they are shielded with rubber seals, as opposed to metal shields from Assioma. This concern could be further mitigated by machining down the oil retainer to ~1mm, or finding a 10x15x1 washer/shim to place between the BRG and axle shoulder (closest I’ve found is a Suzuki GSX-R 10x15x1.5 brake banjo washer, which could also be machined).
Wow, I didn’t believe how easy this hack was! It was even easier than I had thought. I went ahead and purchased a new pair of Favero Assioma pedals that I’m really excited to use. I want the ability to ride gravel with these since that’s primarily the riding I do and need the SPD pedals. I then bought a cheap pair of the Issi Flash III pedals. Brand new on eBay for $54. The conversion was so simple and seems to have worked perfectly. You do need the III version of these pedals because they are the only ones with 3 washers. The I and II versions do not have 3 washers. That would be the same for the Issi Flip and Trail pedals as well.
When I put the Issi pedal on the Assioma spindle, the pedal actual spins BETTER than when it’s on the Issi spindle. I took the small rubber washer out of the inside of the Issi Flash pedals and kept the Oil Retainer from Favero on the spindle. Used the Favero nut and then the Issi end cap. There’s no play in the Issi pedals when tightening the nut on the Favero spindle as there appears to be with Xpedo pedals. It’s really as simple as that! Unscrew the end cap on both, unscrew the nut on both, slide them off, take out the rubber washer on the inside of the Issi pedal, keep the oil retainer on the Favero spindle and slide the Issi Flash pedals on the Favero spindle, tighten the nut, tighten the end cap and there you go! Brand new power meter SPD pedals!
I saw above some people were having a hard time finding xpedos - If anyone is interested in the xpedo trvs duo pedal for this, I have a set I decided not to use that I’d sell for a good discount. They work - I documented testing them somewhere up in this thread, but only rode them a couple times. Flat one side spd the other. If I kept them, I’d cut off the platform with a dremel to make a super light one side low profile SPD (even with the flat platform side it’s already lighter than any of the other options) but I ended up going to keos.
PM me if interested…
