What trainer wheel setting for those heights?
not sure I understand your question
The Kickr has several holes for âwheel sizesâ in the middle support leg. Which height / wheel position are you using on the Kickr?
Ignore the tube, but see the 26" size position I use, for reference.
Here is mine.
Front axle = 13.75 inches from the ground
Rear axle = 14.5 inches from the ground with Kickr in the MTB 24" setting
Weird. Mine are the same. Here is the back:
Like I said, my front and back are around 13.75 or 13.875 inches.
I am on a kickr 18, which version do you have?
Kickr 2017
I just tried lowering my Kickr18 to the lowest setting (road 24") and at that height my front and rear axles are both 13.75". I will be keeping it there so that I dont have to use a board under the front end to keep things level.
I only did about a 10 second test ride, but it didnt seem to cause any rubbing or balance issues with the E-Flex.
My front and rear also have about an inch difference with Kickr 17. Using ERG mode, would the slight downhill posture really adversely affect training or cause inaccurate power readings? In other words, is there a measurable difference between level and 1" âdownhill?â
Your Kickr doesnât know the orientation of your bike to a first order. So no, having the front wheel slightly lower than the rear wheel wonât cause inaccurate power readings.
Will it affect your training? Probably not.
[Edited to correct 98" - that was 98 cm or 38.6"]
A 1" drop with a wheelbase of 38.6" (yours is probably +/- 1 or 2 inches from this) is a downward angle of 1.5 degrees. Slight, but you may or may not notice this.
Wheelbase is about 40 inches normally, which is about a 1.0 to 1.5 degree downhill ride if your front is 1" lower than your rear.
For me, I just like riding level when doing training rides.
No, I havenât. Both the front and rear axles roughly measure at 14" when on the MTB 24" setting which places my position fairly neutral. It seems to work just fine for me.
Just got my e-flex and set it up on Monday. Then did first ride Tuesday morning. Couple of things I noticed:
- The screws on the top plate of the fork stand were pretty loose. One had even fallen out in the box. I put that screw back in and tightened the rest. Just something to check.
- When I set it up I lined everything up so the handlebars were straight. Then I got on the bike which weighted the flex arm so then the handlebar was turned slightly. Not a big deal as a bit of pressure on the bars brought it inline. I ended up angling the fork stand so that when on the bike the handlebar was aligned straight. Again just something to note.
Impression after one ride is that I like it. Pretty easy to get used to and tipping hasnât been an issue (though I did leave the Kickr legs out just in case). Looking forward to a longer ride this weekend to see how it feels.
I just completed my order for an E-Flex and will report once I get it and a ride or two ![]()
Nice, looking forward to your thoughts given all the rocker plates youâve ridden. I still love my E-Flex, its not exactly like riding outside but the instant feedback on wasteful pedaling is very helpful. The whole falling over thing was overblown IMHO, mine has been unlocked since the first week.
Every comment from current users has been positive to glowing. I am excited to try it. I have a few questions that I want to address, but I expect I will really like the product. It has gone up in price ($450 now vs $400 as introduced) which I am still fine with. I think even with shipping, the nearly $500 is probably the best value proposition in the rocker world if you want fore-aft movement.
There are far cheaper solutions for pure rocking, but this is the whole deal for less than half the Saris MP1. The clear limit is the restriction to Kickrâs, but that happens to cover a lot of users.
On weekends its impossible to finish all the high priority home projects and still do the long rides I love, so building something for less wasnât really a viable option.
The only changes I think Inside Ride should make are:
- Add some type of âguideâ to make it easier to align the front and back components. Not a big deal, but would be a nice to have feature, especially if you are setting up / moving this frequently
- Add a cross bar to the back of the front component. This is more of a âlongevityâ thing to ensure the front component stays square. Probably not a big deal if you have a dedicated trainer space, but more of an issue if you have to move / setup the trainer frequently
Overall I really like this system, but I would like to try they Saris NP1
Great points:
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Alignment is an issue with even simple rear-only rocker plates when it comes to placing a simple wheel riser. This is the same and more complex, and the alignment is likely more critical. Not sure what to use other than lasers or strings, but I may try some when I get it (or resort trial & error via shifting parts around.
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Cross bar makes sense to me as well. I have a pending test I plan to try that leads me to plan on adding one anyway. But long âCâ shapes without sufficient gussets at the joint do concern me a tad. Probably not an issue here, but I like closed shapes when practical.



