I’m 194lbs/88kg and running 25s on 5.6 disc at 75psi with no issues. It does feel soft for a while until you get accustomed to it.
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thx Nate, edited post to add my experience is with 28mm GP5000TLs
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Side question: what actual tire width are seeing? Especially with the 28s?
GP5000TL 28s originally were 28.4mm:
but they widened out to something like 30mm after a bit of time.
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Have you tried to quantify rolling resistance at the lower pressure? I’m lucky enough to ride and race on really good road surfaces most of the time, comfort isn’t really an issue for me and neither are punctures, I just want to optimise for speed. And have a hard time believing that dropping pressure will make me faster.
@cartsman check this out:
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So, after i upgraded my racing wheels i started researching about tubeless tires and I’ve been toying with the idea of making the convertion but I was too scared with the novelty aspect of it, how to deal with puncutres, so and so.
I’ve been running GP4kSII with latex tubes for a few years and NEVER got a flat over thousand miles and several races so, why change what works, right?
The other day i discovered that the training wheels that came with the bike were already tubeless so i decided to go for a long ride with them to check out what this rolling resistance was about. I rode 130km solo on my tri bike and the day after that, I went to the LBS to get the racing wheels converted to tubeless, i didn’t care anymore at that moment, i was so impressed with the performance and feel of the tubeless tires that I’m up to the “risks” about using them.
That 130km ride is a route that i do everytime during the season when trainining for IM races and these rides with tubeless tires (i’ve done two already) ended being 1.5 to 2km/h faster than my previous set up for similar power, rpe and weather conditions which makes sense because I do feel faster when riding over asphalt that is in less than perfect conditions.
To summarize, I understand you mentioned that you’re happy with your set up but you should try a tubeless set up, you may be surprised.
I was so glad that the first time I rode my MTB in New Mexico that had switched to tubeless the month before. Goat Heads are 
the bane of my existence!
Been running GP5kTL x 28mm for 1600 miles with no flats. I reckon I should get over 2000 miles before the rear has worn the 2 little wear mark indicators away.
My 28mm tyres (tires) come up as 29.5mm wide with 68psi, on Hunt Carbon Aero Disc wheels 21mm internal, 27mm external, 50mm deep rims.
Have pulled numerous Hawthorne thorns , (10-15mm long x 2mm) out over that time and all holes have sealed up no problem. Most of the country lanes here in Herefordshire, UK are lined with Hawthorne hedges and the farmers love cutting them and leaving the cuttings strewn along the road side.
Have been using the standard Stans fluid and have just switched over recently to Stans Race fluid.
Previous to the 28mm GP5k TL’s I ran a pair of 32mm - GP5k TL’s on a set of 19mm internal width alloy rims. They came up at just over 33mm wide at 60psi. Very subjective but the 28mm feel a little more responsive and “faster” than the 32mm.
The Contis dont seem to cut up as much as the Schwalbe Pro One TLs I ran previous to the GP5K TL’s.
Thanks, have seen that before. Based on those charts though we’d all be riding around at the highest pressure that our tire/rim permitted! But I know from testing that Silca have done that road quality is also a factor and that the extra power lost through vertical displacement on a rough road surface can outweigh the savings from running higher pressure. Which is presumably also why Enve and other manufacturers charts recommend pressures drastically different to what Bicycling Rolling Resistance are showing.
So I guess I was just looking for real world experiences of the performance impact (if any) of running lower pressures.
Thanks, wasn’t really wondering about the benefits of tubeless (in fact have just got my first tubeless setup running and after some teething issues I’m cautiously optimistic…). More about whether you felt that running those lower pressures was costing you any speed.
Compare to other tires, I’m running 70ish psi so maybe 11W? Pretty low. Running any tubeless, on any wheels, at high pressures risks blowing the tire off the wheel. Compare to other tires at target psi, the website makes that easy.
Anyone tried the 25mm TL on Hed Jet+? What’s the measured width?
Still not sold on the tubeless road concept, been running 4000sii with tubes for 3 years and have a set of non-TL 5000 in the same 25c size waiting to go on next Spring. I run them at 100/110psi f/r, ride quality is still great, cornering grip is great, and they roll very fast. I ride an Emonda SL with carbon wheels so its one of the more “comfortable” frames out there, I could see why someone with a more aero frame with some less compliant tubes would want to have TL with lower pressures.
I don’t like the feel of low pressures myself. I had an instance a few months ago where I had a slow leak in my back tire due to a tiny puncture that stopped after a few minutes (started at 110psi, once it hit 60psi it stopped leaking because thats what it was when I got back home) and the entire ride home every time I would start to put power down or get out of the saddle it just felt more squishy and less “responsive” if that makes sense. Combined with the added weight of the tubeless package overall by the time you account for a heavier tire, added sealant, valve stem, etc. I’ve just never been interested in TL for road. Combined with the fact that I would still carry a tube in case of a cut that sealant wouldn’t close up, and would have sealant all over my frame, derailleurs, etc. its just a lose-lose for me
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Just completed a century ride on my TT, first time riding with GP5k TL and 70psi(went a bit above the recommendation, for my weight it should be 65psi) and I’m probably not looking back on clinchers with tubes. Despite the low pressure they feel solid and ride really smooth. I’m still worried if I ever get a flat that can’t be sealed, it will take me forever to fit a tube on it because they seat really tight on my wheels but it worth the risk IMO.
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I’ve gotten quite a few rides in now on my GP5000 TL’s in 28c. I tend to do 60 - 100 mile rides on road rides at steady pace when I’m not hitting the trails. Locally a lot of the roads are chip-seal.
I’ve been riding them at 58 - 60 psi. They feel great and do wonders soaking up the rough chip-seal. No flats to date but I carry the Dynaplug Air combo plug/CO2 inflator. I’m going to pick up Stan’s new DART plug kit as soon as it is shipping because it looks like it might seal up even bigger holes (Stan’s NoTubes DART plug tool promises to revolutionize tubeless tire repair - CyclingTips).
In January I head to Maui for two weeks of heavy riding. Although @Jonathan wasn’t a fan, I still find the riding there amazing and it will be a great test on pretty mixed roads, some wet and slippery with tight corners at speed (West Maui Loop), some a bit beaten up (parts of the Hana Highway), and others really smooth and fast (including the road up and down Haleakala). I road GP 4000’s with latex tubes there last year and they held up well. Looking forward to seeing how the 5000 TL’s compare.
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My experience after 3 years of running multiple tubeless tires in varying widths is that the lower pressures definitely cost speed. After a long angsty period of wondering why I was so slow, I’m back up to the same pressures I was using for non-tubeless. GP5000, 700x25, 115R 105F, 83kg body weight. I don’t have a theory about why my experience is so different than the various tests, but I’ve tried it for enough miles to be absolutely certain that the lower pressures make me slower.
The benefit of road tubeless for me is all in puncture protection. I’ve removed a number of small objects that would have been punctures with a traditional setup, and with tubeless, I never even noticed they were there.
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Are the roads you ride on pretty smooth? That seems to me the biggest variable.
Edit - also, any issues with running tubeless at high pressure? My one tubeless wheel seems to hold 60-70psi no problem, but pumped it up to 100 for a TT yesterday and it was down to 70 within a few hours (and has then stayed there overnight).
Just as a reference I looked at test results on the rollingresistance website and this is what I found.
If comparing a GP5000 to a GP5000TL at 100psi both in a 25c, the watts savings for TL is 1.8w per tire
If comparing a GP5000 @ 100psi to a GP5000TL at 80psi both in a 25ci, the watts savings for TL is .9w per tire
Most people seem to run their TL tires even lower pressures so the watts savings get even smaller, if not even becoming slower overall. I agree that lower pressures are more comfortable, but I don’t agree with TL tires being faster just due to the hard numbers. Combine that with the fact that TL will not seal all cuts, and the absolute misery you would have to endure trying to install a tube road-side, and the fact that they don’t offer weight savings, its a hard no for me on several levels.