I’m seeing the same thing on my workouts and randomly. I have been using them with a KICKR Core and Neo (OG). It seems like the Ant+ connection is more reliable to my Edge 1030 but I do get some drop-outs on that when I get a drop in TR on my iPad using BLE. I also report the data to Zwift using Ant+. I have not overlaid the FIT files but might do so to compare them. Sometimes I lose on pedal, sometimes its zero cadence and sometimes its just zero power. It does not seem to impact erg mode on TR that I can feel.
I just want to give my experience to people. I purchased the left sided only version in March-ish if I remember correctly. I have gone through 3 pairs and gave up and am switching to XX1/Quarq. In total I probably rode about 60-80 moving time hours or so on them. I ride a 2020 spark RC, and due to 175 cranks, a low BB, long pedal stack, and a LOT of PA/NY baby head rock gardens the pedals did take their fair share of strikes, over those hours.
First pair I rode for probably 6 weeks or so when the battery cap somehow loosened itself and I didn’t notice. I had not touched the cap at all out of the box. I don’t know if it came not torqued appropriately or if it rattled loose over time. I suspect the latter. It stopped working with that current battery, possibly from humidity, but when I checked it there was no moisture and I put a new battery in and it worked for that evening. However, I came back and it was totally dead. Lesson to ALL: Make Sure You Check and Tighten the Cap Every Couple Weeks!!!
After warrantying this first pair, I was able to ride with a second. This pair lasted for about 2 weeks, max, before one of the tensioning springs just totally exploded. I don’t know the exact details but I think the spring itself hit something on the trail but I can’t be sure. I will expand on this in a moment.
After breaking the second pair, I brought in one of these pedals to the shop as I thought it might be fixable, but they didn’t know for sure so they just handed me a third pair. This pair did not even make it through one ride. However, how they broke was interesting. I know 100% that while the bottom of the pedal hit a root (on a climb so not THAT hard), the spring actually broke around my clete itself. I didn’t put that together at first but when I did I realized I had ended up unclipped while it bonked the root. This was not a hard impact, e.g. I didn’t pop out from that, so I suspect there was an issue with how something responds when actually clipped it. i wonder if this is what happened to my second pair but I can’t be sure.
All I can say is at least they got warrantied. But the pedals seemed like crap to me, and for $700 its way too much of a risk to hope that they’ll stay in one piece for a long time.
TLDR: Broke 3 pairs of rally XC100s. Cannot recommend anyone buy these, I suspect we’re all gonna start seeing a ton of warranty’s eventually. Probably fine for CX, as long you don’t whack stuff ever. Not something you can count on when you ride MTB’s all the time. The huge stack height doesn’t help things at all either.
Perhaps you are tough on stuff, I have a pair of vector 3 pedals, and got the conversion kit after a long wait (i ordered the day it was released), the first week of June. I’ve had my share of pedal strikes, and haven’t even seen unusual power strikes. Mine have been getting 6-14 hours a week outdoors, and have been happy. I have put about 400 outdoor miles on them (some road), and have been happy. When sprinting indoors on the trainer, i have pre-released 3x, but never outside. The only other complaint I have is the slightly loose SPD interface to the tread of my shoes, and I cannot find the correct Sidi sole replacement kit, but I make it work anyways. Good luck with the Quarq solution!
Not impossible but this would be the only component to ever in such a way. I’ve never broken another component. They’ve had standard wear and tear, but I just don’t ride things into the ground like some users. Wheels, tires, brakes/pads for example being the things i’m considering most here as ‘likely to break’.
I would expect a mtb designed component that’s $700 to also hold up to a root strike no matter the situation.
It seems you are a wahoo user too, could you do me favor or anyone really, check if yours show Torque Eff, or Pedal Smoothness?
I post this in a separate thread but got no answers:
So I just got the dual sided Rally PM and it seems like it doesn’t show Torque Effectiveness, Pedal Smoothness only L/R Balance.
I tried googling but not a lot came up, except that it seems like it the same with Karoo useres. Could any one of you confirm that his is the case for you too and my pedals aren’t the outlier.
You’ve to enable them in garmin connect app as far as I recall. I didn’t have them by default in my Garmin edge 830, but after changing the setting, they both display.
Where would that setting be? Can’t find it in the connect app.
while i haven’t had any of the experiences you mention, i am concerned about support for these. i’ve noticed that they’re still on the same firmware since launch. now that’s not necessarily a bad thing if everything was great out of the box, but i see all sorts of reports of issues with calibration, accuracy, temperature etc.
for them to be on the market for 2-3 months now with no updates at all is concerning to me
Checked out my garmin rally pedals and edge 830 to see how it was setup. It wasn’t in garmin connect app. It was in the sensors menu, when the rally pedals are selected, there are few different menus there on the edge, one of them has cycling dynamics. Torque Eff and Pedal Smoothness can be enabled under that submenu. I assume that wahoo should be able to communicate with the rally pedals and get these menus too.
I’m getting some odd data results from by Garmin Rally MTB pedal. Avg power and TSS seem much lower than they should be. I have a ride I do often in the evenings down a local biking trail out and back that is about 1 hour. I have done this ride a hundred times or more so I’m very familiar. On my road bike with a Stages left side Gen 3 meter I get avg power of around 160 watts and a TSS of about 60. On my gravel bike which weighs 3 lbs more and has 40mm gravel tires I get power around 135-140 watts and TSS of about 35. Same distance and time. Logic says it should take MORE power to move the gravel bike over the same course in the same time and my perceived effort tells me the same. I have calibrated the Garmin each time and even re-calibrated mid-ride. There has been no firmware update to apply. I am using Shimano cleats and have used two different pair of shoes with no change.
I understand different power meters will measure differently but this difference seems far to big to be accurate. Is anyone else seeing anything like this?
Yes I have a stages power meter on one bike and the other has garmin xc rally pedals. There is definitely a 10-15 watt difference, I think it’s mainly due too the power being measured at your foot compared to the arm.
I assume garmin power numbers would be more accurate than a crank arm based power meter. I’m not sure but I have seen the same difference as you have.
Edit: I have done a ftp test using both at the same time and it was 12 watt difference.
There is no power loss between these two locations, so differences are not due to location but rather to measurement accuracy. Is the Stages PM dual-sided?
No they are both one sided.
My xc100s read low compared to both my Quarq and my Kickr. I’m trying to see if the difference is consistent. As long as the xc’s are reliably accurate (or is it precise or consistent) from ride to ride, the only thing hurt is my ego seeing lower watts.
My XC200 pedals also read low compared to my Neo and 4iiis.
Have used the scale factor (in the Garmin Connect app) to try to get them closer to your 4iii and Neo. Or are you just living with it?
I’m going to try this now! I’m new to some power meter things and I’ll see if this helps. Why I like this forum , Thanks
Yes, I scaled it. I really don’t care what the number is as long as it’s consistent so I can track.
I know the Neo uses an algorithm. Aren’t small differences normal from power meter to power meter? Also, wouldn’t a pedal-based possibly read different than a crank based? I’ve just switched to my Rally’s and using them as my new baseline for everything.
It was a big difference, like the poster above