That my post helped make sure one person didn’t accidentally trash their pedals is wonderful. I’m glad you caught it!!
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Make sure you really tighten the garmin pedals to their recommendations ( 34Nm) !!
I realized this rookie mistake today and the power on my stages power meter and garmin rally xc pedals are damn near identical now.
What torque wrench are you using for the pedals? I was wondering if that’s maybe the cause. Garmin is warrantying my pedals for a second time because the power is so far off
I had to buy one for a special project a while ago, if I didn’t have it I would just give it a little extra crank when installing. Before I had the pedals barely on so I could easily remove them. It really did change the power reading instantly.
Edit: The pedals are actually reading 5+ watts now above my stages power meter.
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I just ran into another small change that was causing me some issues. My right pedal was squeaking and clicking. When I mentioned it to my LBS mechanic he asked if my cleats were new or old. I replaced my cleats with new Shimano SH51 cleats (had the Bontrager version on my shoes), and the creak disappeared.
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I’ve crashed (front wheel ate a skateboard) and crashed hard on one of my garmin pedals. My shimano rc9 shoes unclipped and the top boa ripped out from the shoe. The pedal body + battery door has some pretty deep scratches. The pedal still works fine.
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So my garmin rally pedals were working dead nuts with my stages left only power meter but today that wasn’t the case.
I’m just going with a -6% ftp on the dual garmin rally pedals compared to single left only stages. It makes sense why the difference is there, only thing it hurts is my ego. Also makes me want to keep training!
Yup turns out that was my issue as well. Bought a torque wrench, tightened to 34nm and bingo, reading very close to my Quarq and Kickr now. Thanks for that…actually Garmin should thank you for that!
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What are you all tightening? The battery port? The pedal to the crank? Something else?
Pedal to crank, at recommended torque.
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I spoke with a rep at garmin, if you’re seeing any dropouts. They recommended the following
“ taking the battery out for 10 minutes, place them back,set the crank length and recalibrate; then test it out”
Between doing the recommendation above and tightening my pedals at the crank, they have been working great.
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Link above. I have not torque’d to spec after reading DC Rainmaker’s review. I just tightened with a pedal wrench and went from there. So far, they still match my KICKR Core almost perfectly. They run 6% or so less than my TACX Neo (on a different bike but same exact crankset). They seem consistent. I experience some intermittent drop-outs via BLE on my iPad with TrainerRoad but nothing that seems to impact my training and my Ant+ connections appear to be pretty stable. Hope that helps.
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Thanks. While I’m asking stupid questions, how do you measure torque with a pedal wrench? The Rally pedals don’t have a hole for a bit like a normal SPD pedal, you have to use a pedal wrench to install.
I just crank them down like im not planning on taking them off that should be good.
I did that when I changed the pedals to a different bike. That seems to work , I initially wanted to see what the torque felt like and now I have a feel for it .
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You can use a Park Tool Crow Foot or something similar. I have one but have not used it to torque my pedals.
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PERFECT! Thank you!
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I use the park crow tool above with the pro tools torque wrench. I figure I’ll use I’ll several times to set used to the feel and then just use my standard Park pedal tool.
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Just picked up the rally XC pedals. Unfortunately I have a garmin 130 plus that does not support cycling dynamics. I do have a runner 945 as well that does support cycling dynamics.
What fields are best to track while riding for cycling dynamics. I am curious the best way to use the data. I am only allowed 6 fields on the watch and am looking for suggestions. Thank you!
Do you need to have them?
Have a look here at what the different things are: Cycling Science | Garmin Technology | United States
I have L/R balance on some pages, as well as the auto cycling dynamics page on some workout setting. But I don’t think you will gain much (if anything) from looking at the cycling dynamics stuff.
Power phase is good if you are doing work on your pedal stroke (especially on a track bike on the rollers), but everyone is different and each leg will be slightly different so if you have 6-186 on one and 4-190 on the other, it doesn’t mean you need to work on getting them to be equal. Seated/standing you should know when you’re doing it, so it’s only really…um cool(?)… to look at in Garmin Connect afterwards.
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I just have lap power average, power 3s, elapsed time and that’s it for outside workouts. I do have a second screen with 8 data fields and have everything I can on there. It’s tough to look at if your doing anything above sweet spot.
Like how it was said above, cycling dynamics are good if you want to improve pedal stroke. I don’t think it’s some thing I’ve been missing out on. I do notice that lower intensities my left leg does most the work but then higher intensity is my right leg does most to work, in the end it comes out to pretty much 50-50.
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