Garmin Rally Power Meter Pedals: Look Road, Shimano Road & MTB

Most are with no change in riding position. The one drop the last time I stood @ MM46:34 coresponds with standing, but seems odd that it went to 0. The ‘dip’ at the second standing section @ MM40:33 seem s plausible to just be transitioning. All other drops or quick dips happened with no actual change in position or pedal speed.

I’d be inclined to say it’s some form of interference but the cadence never drops.(i.e. MM 38.43) Power goes to zero but cadence stays steady.

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I have the same. I changed to 10 second smoothing so it doesn’t drive me nuts in real time, but it’s definitely concerning long term.

Here you can see the power goes to 0, yet the cadence remains stead at 94RPM. A story that repeats itself over and over.

That’s fine for what you see, but when you are in ERG mode and TR sees a drop in power, it ramps up the resistance.

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FYI, I’m connected to TR on my Windows laptop via BLE. I also record on my Garmin Edge 530 via ANT+. Which also record the drop outs.(i don’t know if drop outs is the right term, it doesn’t loose connection, simply reports a 0 value for power.)

I just had a look at my Garmin connect data and I actually see both versions. Dropouts with 0 power and 0 cadence, and also those with cadence data but zero power. I was running TR on Erg connected to my Neo, with the pedals connected to my 1030, so I see it in Connect, but (obviously) not in TR, which is why I haven’t experienced the Erg power ramp up you mentioned. That would suck.

Wow I haven’t had any dropouts on my garmin rally spd, one sided power meter pedals. I do think it’s Different trying to maintain power compared to my stages crank arm power meter.

Last night’s test with my wife’s set went well. no drop outs. TR crashed mid ride, but the recording on my 530 was perfect! I also had my iPhone XS bluetooth turned off as my wife pointed out that I have issues with it’s bluetooth function from time to time(although it was never connected to the pedals). Test again tonight with my pedals and no phone. Don’t know what I’ll do for music though, My laptop can’t tolerate running TR and Pandora at the same time :frowning: :grimacing:


Interesting. Let me know what you learn when you test yours again. If you find the wife’s are perfect but yours drop, mine might be going back for a swap.

I’m leaning towards it being my phone now. I just struggle to think I got 2 sets from garmin that do the same thing.

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unfortunatly, I’m still struggling here. Garmin support has been slow in response.

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Tried only running TR, No Z today. Still drop outs… Might switch to doing workouts in resistance mode until Garmin can get this sorted.

I’m looking at getting the garmin xc rally 200’s or 100’s and I’m looking for real world reviews from normal people! Also does anyone know how they last with hitting roots / rocks by accident when riding mtb? Cheers

I got my replacement set of xc100s and thus far have not experienced the pairing problems or dropouts I had with my initial set.


I think I have my issues resolved aswell after some growing pains with the new set everything seems to be going well, final testing to make sure everything is solid next week!

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Vaguely related, I assume there’s been no indication that they’re making the firmware changes to the Vectors that they suggested they might? Kinda glad I didn’t buy them on the cheap as without the firmware update I doubt they’d be particularly accurate offroad.

I have about 500 miles on my Garmin rally spd pedals. I’ve done some rough gravel and a little bit of single track in my area. I haven’t beat them up too bad just yet.
I must say they are pretty precise with measuring power and I haven’t had any problems.
The only thing I did notice is to calibrate once you start riding, then warm up for about 10 minutes outside and re-calibrate before you start your workout/event or whatever. That way you get an accurate measurement.
In the instructions that Garman gives you they actually tell you to warm up first to bring it he pedals up to the temperature that you will be riding in for accurate power measurements.
They are the one sided power meter spd pedal FYI.


I just put a new set of XC200s on my bike. I am planning to run my Kickr Core to TR tomorrow and the pedals to my Garmin just to get a feel for any major differences or issues. After that I plan to have them control my trainer with TR and broadcast to Zwift. Not quite sure how all that will work but I assume it should be fairly straight-forward once I turn on the respective apps and pair things up.

I bought the Rally XC 200 the week before Unbound Gravel when there were reports of lots of mud on the course due to all the rain. Normally I run Favero’s on my gravel bike.

I put them on my MTB bike first as it has a Quarq and then put that on my Saris Hammer H1 trainer to do baseline test. Power over 2 rides was consistent and tracked with the Quaq and Hammer. I had tried out a pair of Vector 3’s 2? years ago and they were consistently inconsistent leading me to get rid of them.

The Rally’s worked fine for the entire Unbound race. I made sure to recalibrate them just before the start of the race as per the instructions and wisdom of the internet :slight_smile:

I’m not a fan of the SPD cleat interface as I seem to be one of the few that has problems with their shoes (New Garmin Rally XC Pedals, Loose Cleat/Pedal Interface - #10 by Salvo) and it’s not something I want to deal with so I will be selling them.

I’ve had an XC conversion kit on order for use with my existing Vector 3, it’s been on backorder for a while now and kept getting pushed.

Over the weekend, I saw that XC Rebuild Kits were in stock (One for Left Sensing, and one for Right Sensing). $100 per kit.

I went ahead and ordered.

They arrived today, and conversion was easy.

Each kit included the pedal body (with new spindle seals), a battery door, a battery board, 2 door o-rings, and the spindle nut/tiny screws.

I think the official conversion kit includes pedal washers, but I do not need those. Otherwise I see no difference in terms of what is included.

Cost for the actual kit was $250, so in addition to getting the parts earlier, there is a $50 savings as well.