Elite Suito - SRAM 12spd MTB bike with Shimano 11spd road casette

Hi,

I have an Elite Suito direct drive trainer that still has the 11spd Shimano 105 casette that it came with - been riding it with my roadbike, but now in a situation where I’d want to use it with my MTB for one week.

Problem: The MTB has a 12spd SRAM Eagle groupset and also has Boost spacing. From reading the product website, it seems like both of these are not supported out of the box. I currently don’t have access to my Suito, so can’t confirm what adapters there are include, although from reviews it sounds like only 142x is included, not 148 Boost.

So the 2 parts I’d need are

  1. Boost Adapter
  2. XDR Driver

If I were to only get the boost spacer, how bad is it to use the 12spd SRAM Eagle chain on the 11spd Shimano 105 road casette, given that I don’t even have to shift in ERG mode?
Would it be loud, destroy chain, destroy casette?

Thanks!

Fellow Suito owner here. No, I wouldn’t do that. Otherwise you’d have to stay in exactly one gear and you have a fully compatible, inexpensive alternative: a 11-50 SRAM NX cassette. Because your smallest sprocket has 11 cogs, you don’t need an XDR driver, but it is fully compatible.

1 Like

Ha, great!
So just need the boost spacer and a NX casette with 11-50 and I’m good to go?
Sounds like SRAM 11 and 12spd cassettes are fine.

Given all my MTB drive trains are SRAM, probably a worthy investment even if it’s a little more expensive. Thanks for the recommendation!

Yup.

If you have more than one bike with a SRAM drive train, this is a no-brainer, me thinks. Plus, you won’t use all of your gears, especially your top-most gears, so I don’t think this difference is going to matter in practice on your trainer.

For reference, I use my Suito with a 10-36 Force cassette, and I think I got as far as my 9th gear up until now for sprint training.

Yeah I ride mostly ERG with a straight chain line (mostly = exclusively so far, that’s what I love most about indoor training)

@OreoCookie , tried setting it up yesterday and was successful at first. Then noticed that the cassette wasn’t 100% tight and moving a little side to side, when I pushed on it.
Took it off again and added a spacer on the inside and put it back on - when tightened, the cassette didn’t wiggle anymore, so I was much happier with it. When I sat on the bike to test riding though, the freehub wasn’t working at all anymore and there were some bad noises when I stopped pedaling. :smiley:

My very expert assessment now is that I wrecked the freehub body (the pawls and spring came loose, not sure it’s salvageable), but wanted to check whether you were using any spacers or had any other ideas?
As far as I can tell, the Shimano 105 11sp casette that came stock didn’t need any spacers, so I was surprised that the NX Eagle 12sp would need one?

Sorry about the late reply. I don’t think you are supposed to add any spacers with 12-speed cassettes. And good news, I don’t think your freehub is broken at all. I haven’t taken my freehub apart yet on my Suito, but on my Volano the freehub was not affixed in any way, I could just pull it off.

Regarding indexing, when I first used my XDR driver, it was quite rough. The drive train was set up correctly, it was smooth as butter when I used my wheel. I overtightened the nut until it was all mangled up. Instead, the cassette, freehub and rear derailleur just needed a little time to “get used to” one another. Over time it gets better and better. And I haven’t had to make any micro adjustments at all after a while.

But I did have a similar problem when I first got my XDR driver: the cassette didn’t want to play ball with my drive train. The drive train was set up perfectly on my wheels, but

The cassettes are for MTB 11 hubs (aka the old MTB/Road 10speed freehub dimension). It should use a 1.85mm spacer for Road 11 freehub.

It should be verifiable by eye when you install it, but not tightened down.

It sounds like it’s binding. Take off the bike, and spin the cassette by hand (turn down resistance if you need to or use a chain whip). See if you can identify where it’s binding.

1 Like

No worries, thanks for the response!

I was able to fix it by now, ordered a new free freehub body and indeed had to use the spacer.
Never messed around with hubs/pawls before, so it was good to see working vs non-working. Should be able to salvage the old freehub body with a fresh set of pawls and spring, sometime in the future.
Had a few good workouts on it already with the MTB, should be good prep for next season. :slight_smile:

1 Like

Thanks, learnt something today. :+1:
Indeed, I was only using road cassettes on my trainer.