I moved from Etap to Di2 and I’m trying to figure it out the best buttons configuration?
Etap is so simple with just two buttons 
What setup do you have?
Semi synchronization, left triggers control front derailleur, right triggers control rear derailleur, hood buttons control my Wahoo.
I like to know exactly when my front chainring is going to switch so full synchronization is not for me.
2 Likes
But which button do what?
I have doubts regarding right leaver / rear. Small button bigger sprocket seems strange but oposite would be problematic in sprints…
Just set the buttons up for what ever suits your riding best, have a play around trying different combinations.
You might want to add some additional buttons on the drops for shifting whilst sprinting.
And this is the issue with Di2…
Personally I tried to replicate eTap as closely as possible.
So, left lever small button (closer to fingers) shifts rear mech inboard (lower gear/larger sprocket). Left lever large button shifts front mech inboard (lower gear/smaller chainring).
Right lever small button shifts rear mech outboard (higher gear/smaller sprocket). Right lever large button shifts front mech outboard (higher gear/larger chainring).
Couple this with changing settings with full and semi synchronisation. As @Livewire mentioned I like knowing where the front shift is going but during a race I take it out of the equation and run full auto. You can always override the front mech if you wanted.
1 Like
Right shifter does rear, left does front. Large paddle goes down the cassette, small paddle goes up it. I run semi synchro. Rear moves 3 gears going to the big ring, goes 2 when going to the small.
I run mine how it’s set up standard and have my hood buttons control my wahoo screen. Really easy system to use
To be fair, Shimano Mechanical uses the same layout
5 Likes
I have older version Di2 with only the 4 paddle buttons.
For me the full synchronized shift mode is the way to go. Right hand controls all the shifting as I only have to press up or down and depending on the cassette and chainrings the best front shift moments can be setup.
Left hand then controls the Garmin, I only use next and previous screen.
True, and it doesn’t make any more logical sense there either, but at least the levers are a decent size
1 Like
The only time I’ve really fumbled with Di2 is on one winter ride with thick gloves when I had no dexterity. On the flip side the amount of times I grazed the wrong lever when I had mechanical and subsequently deactivated the shifting (if you graze the downshift button as you upshift then the upshift just pushed all the way through and doesn’t do anything) I can’t even count.
1 Like
I manage both semi-regularly 
1 Like
My wife has sync shifting. I have manual. Right side - rear; left side -= front. Small paddle on either side is an up shift. Large paddle is a downshift. Hood buttons change screens.
If we were not so used to the inverted functions of mechanical shifters, it would seem very strange to setup Di2 as if it was mechanical.
And SRAM’s single paddle makes sense? When I had a sram groupset, I HATED that operation, wanting one gear easier and accidentally missing the detent and getting one gear harder. Or the dreaded end of the cassette…
It makes more sense when you think about what is actually happening to change gears. On mechanical Shimano STI levers, the small paddles releases gear cable, enabling the derailleur to shift to a smaller chainring or sprocket. The larger paddle has to be pushed across, which pulls the gear cable in - this pushes the derailleur up the cassette to bigger sprockets, or into the bigger chainring.
Mechanically, having the two controls on each side means that each control only has to do one function and there’s much less chance of error or malfunction. With electronic gearing much of that is moot, but they have kept the basic configuration the same so that it matches the mechanical set up
1 Like
Nope, and I didn’t say it did…
Etap makes more sense to me, but then there is also the risk of forgetting what chainring you’re in and shifting (say) back to the big ring when that’s the last thing you want.
If/when SRAM/whoever comes out with a 13-14 speed 1x road system, I’ll be all over it.
Yes, you’re right. I do understand the mechanics, but I suppose when you have to try and explain this to a new rider (as I’ve had to do recently), you actually realise it’s not terribly intuitive. Having ridden road bikes for over 2 decades, I’m very much used it to it and don’t really have to think about it.
My initial ‘gripe’ was that the Di2 buttons, being small and close together, can lead to mis-shifts in some situations. I’d also add it shifts with robotic precision and is zero maintenance.
I prefer Etap’s gearing ratios, ‘wirelessness’, and shift logic, but I don’t prefer it’s FD operation, generally lower reliability, or cost (especially of spares).
I’ve set mine up to vaguely match eTap:
- Front / large right “button” moves the rear derailleur to the right - harder gear
- Back / smaller right “button” moves the front derailleur to the right - big chainring
- Front / large left “button” moves the rear derailleur to the left - easier gear
- Back / smaller left “button” moves the front derailleur to the left - small chainring
I really like the above configuration, and I never understood Shimano matching the Di2 button configuration to the mechanical.
1 Like
thats an easy fix, Run full Synchro and program both of the right paddles for ‘harder’ and both of the left paddles for easier’. you basically have what amounts to a 1x14-16(depending on where you set your pre programmed FD shift points.)
that said, I have never accidentally pushed the wrong button when shifting my GRX Di2, even with some thick lobster claw gloves on.
1 Like
I like that idea.
I have. I suspect I am just an oaf.
1 Like