Sweet builds! I recently picked up a 51 marble oxblood frameset. I’m piecing it together as a 1x flatlander setup using some parts I had or could source for a great deal.
I’m curious how it feels compared to my size 52 SL8 that I currently ride. I’ve already noticed it has a much higher stack and I will need to slam the stem.
I’m waiting for the expander plug to use the conceal stem. I only had the expander plug designed for the one piece bar and unfortunately they are different and of course proprietary. Hopefully I will have it within the week and can ride her when I get back from a family trip.
Do you mean the wedges? The expander plug is the same. There’s only one. There are different wedges for the Momo bar and the Conceal stem, but you don’t need a specific expander.
I came from a 54cm CAAD 13, and went to a 56CM SSE4, both with 105 Di2. I wanted to change to the SSE, and my bike fitter suggested the 56, as it just fits me better. The geometry between the two is just enough (the 56 has a shorter wheelbase than the 54!) that the 56 just handles better, and I’m much more confident on the bike. It descends like a dream. I too changed to a zero offset seat post, along with shorter cranks and a narrower bar than stock. Recently upgraded to ENVE 4.5s with 32mm GP5000 S TR. Tires measure right at 34mm on those wheels. Still a little room, but I don’t know if I’d go larger, not a lot of room between tire and front derailleur DI2 cable.
As for other bikes considered, I test rode a last gen Orbea Orca and a Scott Addict. Both were more expensive than the SSE, and the SSE just felt better. Only had it since mid-May and have almost 2k miles on it, all outdoors.
Man, that 54 geo seems really weird. The 54 has a longer front center and wheelbase than my 58. Super slack head tube for a race bike. I get why the 56 feels better.
I have a Quintana Roo SR Five - an the opportunity to upgrade from 11 speed 105 to 12 speed Ultegra di2 OR purchase a Gen 4 SuperSix Evo with the same groupset. I am bit a torn on which way to go and obviously upgrading to di2 is cheaper than buying a new bike. I’m posting here to get input from some SuperSix gen 4 owners.
For some context
I bought a demo SR Five and when having the steerer tube cut was told the olive and barb weren’t included in the brake lines. I had some more work done at a different shop, which did a crappy job putting the bike back together… so much so that my T47 bottom bracket creaks. Obviously this is mostly self inflicted.
I also purchased the bike about 4 months before the Gen 4 Supersix evo was released and as soon as I saw it I thought "@$! I bought the wrong bike.
I built a Gen 4 SuperSix Evo HiMod from the frameset and love it. No regrets. I moved wheels/tires/saddle over from a BMC Roadmachine (endurance bike), and was surprised to find that the SuperSix has noticeably better ride quality. It’s not as long/low as most race bikes, but has snappy handling. Anything in particular you want to know?
I don’t know the Quintana Roo so can’t compare, but I googled it and it’s a nice looking bike. Di2 would be a fun upgrade. I went from 11 speed DA mechanical on the BMC to 12 speed UDi2 on the SuperSix, and can’t imagine going back.
Thank you! Could you tell me a bit more about the ride quality? Also could you tell me what you like about the DI2? I’ve done some reading but helpful to hear from someone that has actually used it.
For reference on ride quality - I had a gen 2 supersix that I loved - so I’m hoping a Gen 4 is similar in that you can feel really connected to the road/have a good idea of how much grip you have even in wet conditions.
I found that the Quintana Roo does look pretty nice and similar to maybe an Aeroad and/or a Tarmac. However the handling is very neutral and not always super confidence inspiring… ride feel is okay but not the same as a Supersix .
My SuperSix Evo 4 is the first carbon bike that I’ve had, so my only real comparisons are the CAAD13 that I traded in for this and my old steel race bike. The SuperSix on carbon wheels set up tubeless has the same supple feeling of being both laterally stiff and vertically compliant that a good steel bike on good tubular had. It’s just much lighter. It goes exactly where I want it to go, I can thread the needle between two potholes just by shifting my weight.
It never crossed my mind that my Roadmachine is harsh or whatever, but the SuperSix definitely has a cushier ride. It’s like the road is damped. I’ve had the SuperSix well over a year, and it still surprises me at times how it tames bumps and chatter.
Di2 just plain shifts better. It’s quicker, more precise, generally quieter, doesn’t need fiddling as the cable wears in and out, and easier to adjust if needed. Just as important, the shape of the hoods is FAR superior to mechanical, in feel and looks. It’s great to shift multiple gears with a button hold. I’m not into the synchro shifting, but you have those options. I really like using the buttons on top of the hoods to change my Garmin screen, but they can be configured for different functions. I recently picked up some sprint shifters but haven’t installed them yet.
One of the biggest advantages I’ve seen with DI2 is the ability to shift and brake simultaneously. I can always be in the correct gear when leaving a stop sign or coming out of a corner. I also like the ability to shift with just a pinky when I’m stretched out on the hoods.
I also came from an aluminum, mech (Ultegra) bike, but I got a SSE Hi-Mod in February and absolutely love it. I go fast, but don’t feel like I’m going as fast as I am. Sounds like some pure racers don’t like that, but it makes me more confident on the bike. I have a buddy with a Tarmac SL8, and the SSE is just as capable and fast. However, I’m a SRAM guy - but I agree that electronic is game changing.
This reminded me of a puzzling phenomenon. I had a mid-2000s CAAD with carbon fork, ultegra, ksyriums that I picked up for cheap to get into road riding. Decided I liked it, although it was a little too big, and bought a 2023 Supersix Evo 105 in what I’m reasonably sure was the right size. Dialed in the fit and spent some time on it and I am fairly sure I’m 0.5-1mph slower on average on the new bike than on the old one, same effort level, same routes, same tires, same kit. If this persists I may start swapping a power meter back and forth and running more controlled trials this winter.