I built a Gen 4 SuperSix Evo HiMod from the frameset and love it. No regrets. I moved wheels/tires/saddle over from a BMC Roadmachine (endurance bike), and was surprised to find that the SuperSix has noticeably better ride quality. It’s not as long/low as most race bikes, but has snappy handling. Anything in particular you want to know?
I don’t know the Quintana Roo so can’t compare, but I googled it and it’s a nice looking bike. Di2 would be a fun upgrade. I went from 11 speed DA mechanical on the BMC to 12 speed UDi2 on the SuperSix, and can’t imagine going back.
Thank you! Could you tell me a bit more about the ride quality? Also could you tell me what you like about the DI2? I’ve done some reading but helpful to hear from someone that has actually used it.
For reference on ride quality - I had a gen 2 supersix that I loved - so I’m hoping a Gen 4 is similar in that you can feel really connected to the road/have a good idea of how much grip you have even in wet conditions.
I found that the Quintana Roo does look pretty nice and similar to maybe an Aeroad and/or a Tarmac. However the handling is very neutral and not always super confidence inspiring… ride feel is okay but not the same as a Supersix .
My SuperSix Evo 4 is the first carbon bike that I’ve had, so my only real comparisons are the CAAD13 that I traded in for this and my old steel race bike. The SuperSix on carbon wheels set up tubeless has the same supple feeling of being both laterally stiff and vertically compliant that a good steel bike on good tubular had. It’s just much lighter. It goes exactly where I want it to go, I can thread the needle between two potholes just by shifting my weight.
It never crossed my mind that my Roadmachine is harsh or whatever, but the SuperSix definitely has a cushier ride. It’s like the road is damped. I’ve had the SuperSix well over a year, and it still surprises me at times how it tames bumps and chatter.
Di2 just plain shifts better. It’s quicker, more precise, generally quieter, doesn’t need fiddling as the cable wears in and out, and easier to adjust if needed. Just as important, the shape of the hoods is FAR superior to mechanical, in feel and looks. It’s great to shift multiple gears with a button hold. I’m not into the synchro shifting, but you have those options. I really like using the buttons on top of the hoods to change my Garmin screen, but they can be configured for different functions. I recently picked up some sprint shifters but haven’t installed them yet.
One of the biggest advantages I’ve seen with DI2 is the ability to shift and brake simultaneously. I can always be in the correct gear when leaving a stop sign or coming out of a corner. I also like the ability to shift with just a pinky when I’m stretched out on the hoods.
I also came from an aluminum, mech (Ultegra) bike, but I got a SSE Hi-Mod in February and absolutely love it. I go fast, but don’t feel like I’m going as fast as I am. Sounds like some pure racers don’t like that, but it makes me more confident on the bike. I have a buddy with a Tarmac SL8, and the SSE is just as capable and fast. However, I’m a SRAM guy - but I agree that electronic is game changing.
This reminded me of a puzzling phenomenon. I had a mid-2000s CAAD with carbon fork, ultegra, ksyriums that I picked up for cheap to get into road riding. Decided I liked it, although it was a little too big, and bought a 2023 Supersix Evo 105 in what I’m reasonably sure was the right size. Dialed in the fit and spent some time on it and I am fairly sure I’m 0.5-1mph slower on average on the new bike than on the old one, same effort level, same routes, same tires, same kit. If this persists I may start swapping a power meter back and forth and running more controlled trials this winter.
I’m running 36cm pro vibe alloy pursuit bars on Supersix Evo 4 as well. I added the reach of the bike, the stem length and the bar reach together and adjusted the stem length down to account for the extra reach on the bar.
51cm S6 Evo reach + stem + pro vibe alloy pursuit bar reach
378 + 100 + 101 = 579
+ 110 = 589
+ 120 = 599
I went with the 110mm stem so my reach is 7mm longer than my last bike but as the stack is a touch higher it is all good
That is the formula that I had too. From my side, I have at the moment a 100mm and 67mm handlebar reach (super short).
I will keep the same bike. So if I am switching to the Pro Pursuit (101mm reach), I might put a 80mm stem, but there will still be 14mm of extra reach.
I am currently riding a 42cm handlebars. I have read that going narrower is also going longer, so this extra reach might not be a problem but I need to try I guess.
For example, Aerocoach recommend to not change the stem length when mounting their Ornix handlebars with a 91mm reach and 32cm handlebars width
Yes if you are going from a 42cm bar to the 36cm then you can go a bit longer reach.
As the drops are angled rather than vertical the lever hoods will probably a bit narrower than 36cm even.
I would leave the 100mm stem in place and at least try it initially without bar tape. It will almost certainly be too long but at least it will give you confidence that either an 80mm or 90mm stem is right.
Last few bikes have been slightly lower stack but very similar reach.
Stack
S6 Evo 535
Bond 531
NK1K 527
Reach
S6 Evo 378
Bond 382
NK1K 379
I would either go with the stack/reach that you know is comfortable for you or if your not sure pay a bike fitter. Lot cheaper than ending up with wrong size
I have a 56 and I’m 183 cm. And I think I’m on the low side of seat post exposure. So I’d lean to 54.
The 54 has a slightly longer wheelbase than the 56. I don’t know if they feel different to ride IRL. Someone on the weight weenies thread likely has an opinion about it.
