I love the bike. It’s very comfortable and feels quick. I have the Conceal stem with Enve aero handlebar. I don’t want an integrated bar/stem because I travel with it. I have the cables under the stem and they aren’t noticeable.
For me, adjusting the bars means cutting the fork. I think WW is the right place to ask about a chimney.
Hello All,
Brand new around and it follows the acquisition of a Cannondale SuperSix Evo… After more than 1.000km I am sold on it… However this is my first carbon, aero, disc brake bikes so a lots of new stuffs for me on the mechanical side.
I have an issue with the Stem. I m sharing 2 pictures for you to have a look.
So, I do have the original Stem - Looks like the C1 Conceal Stem.
when I was rebuilding it, one of the “screw” broke up with few millimetres staying out.
The questions I do have are:
Thanks !
It will depend on why it broke. You’ll need to assess the integrity of the threads once you have the bolt removed. As long as you can get a new bolt to fully seat, you should be OK.
There are bolt removal tools that you can use to extract the snapped bolt.
Yes, you will need to disconnect and then re-bleed the brakes. This is the downside of integrated cockpits. But as long as you can get a new bolt to seat properly, you’ll be good with the original stem.
It could be your fault if you over-tightened it and did not use grease on the bolt. When dealing with bolts on carbon stems, always use a torque wrench. Then ensure you are using the proper setting (usually. ~5nm for stem bolts).
Thanks, for the insights. Will look at the tools and try to get it out before getting into some new territories with bleeding the brake and avoid the big mess.
I used a Torque Wrench and you’re correct, it is 5nm for stem bolts. My thoughts were it might have not been properly straight and put some tension in the screw.
If it is cross threaded, then you will definitely need a new stem. Check it carefully.
I did little by little to hold and then tighten it later on. Maybe too late and my thoughts were that the screw would lightly “bend” and break. My feeling was it kinda broke net like a chisel on a rock.
Will investigate, this week after cleaning the bike and taking it out from the box and will keep you posted.
Thanks for your message 
I have two Supersix in a larger size than I like on Specialized (60 vs 58). I’d be very surprised if Cannondale dramatically changed the sizing/geometry on the2023 SS. Everything I’ve seen indicates no such change.
I think it looks alright
What’s your sadle hight from the bootoom bracket out of interest?
Honestly if the 58 fits you from a teach perspective which it will because you think about longer stems. The 58 is probably the more fitting frame. The only reason to go for the 58ä6 would be saving weight on the frame or if you prefer the feel of the smaller frame…
I have the same handle bar on my SuperSix, very comfortable.
I have the Viper Green EVO 3, upgraded with some nice wheels, it is quite a nice ride
Been looking around at SSE, Foils, Aeroad, etc…
The EVO3 Viper Green + some Lightbicycle Turbo 50 wheels I have on order is the exact setup I think I’m going with. Swap cranks + stem and I think I’ll end up with a pretty solid ride…
How do you like it with some more miles on it? Any downsides or other models you wish you considered more seriously?
Thanks for the reply ! I never would have guessed how much our circumstances and interests had in common lol I’m looking to start doing some road races/TT’s next year just to see what I’m made of…although because I’m aware of the fact that cycling isn’t going to pay the bills I also try to be fiscally responsible and identify those major inflection points of diminishing returns.
I do love the Foil for a few reasons - keeps me in the Scott family, it’s one of the last aero-dedicated frames, and the look just screams speed.
However, in my area in the northeast most rides are 80-100ft/mile so the idea of something like the SSE is enticing and that Viper Green just calls to me. Found a 54cm SSE 3 (105 di2) for $3600, would swap my LB wheels, and a longer stem - feels like the best bike / value I’ll find for the foreseeable future.
I realize the differences between the Aeroad, Foil, SSE3 are insignificant compared to the gains I can make training, eating, sleeping - so basically down to comfort + looks imo.
I plan to swap my Pzero 30’s over (rims have 32ext width) and eventually try some Corsa’s… either 30 or 32. I think all the frames would fit them, so clearance isn’t a huge factor.
Thanks again for the invaluable input!
Sweet builds! I recently picked up a 51 marble oxblood frameset. I’m piecing it together as a 1x flatlander setup using some parts I had or could source for a great deal.
I’m curious how it feels compared to my size 52 SL8 that I currently ride. I’ve already noticed it has a much higher stack and I will need to slam the stem.
Yes, you are correct. I also wanted the top cap that I didn’t have so I ordered the kit. Once they come, I will cut the fork and test her out!
I came from a 54cm CAAD 13, and went to a 56CM SSE4, both with 105 Di2. I wanted to change to the SSE, and my bike fitter suggested the 56, as it just fits me better. The geometry between the two is just enough (the 56 has a shorter wheelbase than the 54!) that the 56 just handles better, and I’m much more confident on the bike. It descends like a dream. I too changed to a zero offset seat post, along with shorter cranks and a narrower bar than stock. Recently upgraded to ENVE 4.5s with 32mm GP5000 S TR. Tires measure right at 34mm on those wheels. Still a little room, but I don’t know if I’d go larger, not a lot of room between tire and front derailleur DI2 cable.
As for other bikes considered, I test rode a last gen Orbea Orca and a Scott Addict. Both were more expensive than the SSE, and the SSE just felt better. Only had it since mid-May and have almost 2k miles on it, all outdoors.
The component fit between the two is also interesting. Between the frame reach and specified stem, the 56 is 15mm longer.
Hi everyone,
I have a Quintana Roo SR Five - an the opportunity to upgrade from 11 speed 105 to 12 speed Ultegra di2 OR purchase a Gen 4 SuperSix Evo with the same groupset. I am bit a torn on which way to go and obviously upgrading to di2 is cheaper than buying a new bike. I’m posting here to get input from some SuperSix gen 4 owners.
For some context
I bought a demo SR Five and when having the steerer tube cut was told the olive and barb weren’t included in the brake lines. I had some more work done at a different shop, which did a crappy job putting the bike back together… so much so that my T47 bottom bracket creaks. Obviously this is mostly self inflicted.
I also purchased the bike about 4 months before the Gen 4 Supersix evo was released and as soon as I saw it I thought "@$! I bought the wrong bike.
