All I can say is “Drool!” my wallet just ran to the door to hide (end of season - funds are gone).
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I’m also curious about using the CXR pedal. Also whether the UNO would change the hack at all.
Just wanted to say that I’ve recently done this with my Assioma duo’s, but I used a slightly cheaper M-Force 4 CR. This is for my gravel bike so I don’t break my face when I have to get off the bike from time to time on gravel, and I just like MTB pedals better. I’m not really concerned from getting pedals strikes either because of the bike it’s going on.
I had to grind a bit of my shoe’s tread away to keep it from touching the pod, but it’s really just a small amount of removal, the shoes need a bit of tread on either side of the cleat anyway so it sits on the pedal body right.
The accuracy is really good compared to my Kickr Core, I’ll throw them on my mtb bike that has a single sided 4iiii and see how well it tracks with a lot of bumps etc…:
^^for those interested I use Tableau Public to compare power meters after converting the FIT files to CSV using a python scrip I found. “Offsettime” is me aligning the timestamps manually because I think there is a slight delay in when my Garmin and my phone writes the data.
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(Edit: I didnt realize this wasnt free)
Not that what you did is wrong at all, but just in case you didnt know about it: DCR Analyzer Tool Overview & Manual
Great work and exciting to hear from more people trying it.
What is the sealing arrangement on the assioma axle? Do the spd pedal bodies seal well or are the bearings open?
Mike
I tried with the CXR’s and it was exactly the same process as the other one. Seems like a solid fit with no play.
Edit:
So be careful when tightening these down on the inner bolt, there’s no stop like the stock pedal bodies. It will keep going and will cut into the plastic housing on the other side (the pod). Thankfully I didn’t go too far into it before I realized. Not sure if this is a CXR thing or because i don’t have a torque wrench.
What I ended up doing was using blue threadlocker and tightening the inner bolt down to where it was just tight enough and letting the threadlocker cure.
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That might be a CXR thing. The MForce has a washer with an o-ring to seal the inside of the pedal up (neat design actually) that butts up against the pod where the stock pedal’s washer did.
I was actually able to use the stock pedal’s washer before I realized that the o-ringed one worked just as well. Maybe you can do that?
I used the stock Assioma washer. The CXR has the same washer/o-ring that you’re talking about but it seemed to be stuck on the original CXR spindle (granted I didn’t spend too much time with it).
The threadlock seems to be holding up so far. If the nut ends up coming loose i will definitely try to pull the CXR washer off.
Great. Might actually spend the cash on doing this when the time comes.
Mike
Wow, just saw this and need to spend some time reading it all.
MTB power pedals would be cool, though I too would worry about pedal strike damage.
I think if someone came up with a univerdal spindle that could accept any pedal body - they could sell a lot.
I would be careful to take them on full on technical mountain bike trails.
For me personally, I would use them for gravel rides and simple single track rides. I live in the Netherlands. To there are no rocky mtb trails here. Mostly they are flowy with an occasional tree root.
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This is my use case. Doing a 130 mile gravel ride in the base look cleats was not a great experience.
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What’s cranks are you using? Does the pod stick up past the crank and do you think one of those rubber crank protectors would be useful? I’m considering this for my cross bike.
So, a few things. I picked up a pair of the CXR and am trying this hack. In response to @Heatdeathofuniverse below, the CXR has the o-ring also, but it’s attached to the spindle and can’t be removed. Which brings me to my problem/dilemma. With the Favero spacer on, tightening the CXR end nut to even 4Nm, the pedal won’t spin. According to Favero, it should be 8-10Nm, so it doesn’t look like I can use the Favero spacer. I ended up not using any spacer and tightened the pedal to 8Nm. I’m not sure if it’s going to cut into the plastic on the Favero spindle, we’ll see after a ride.
(This isn’t the bike they’re going on, just going to compare the power data to the trainer)
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This weekend I will install the M Force 4. Hopefully the weather will improve that I can test them soon
That spacer/Oring will (or should come off, the mforce one was on pretty tight) come off. It’s just sorta pressed on a bit. You can put the spindle between two blocks of wood with it resting on the spacer and give it a tap and it should pop off.
Nice. Yeah, I don’t have a torque wrench so I tightened with the Assioma spacer to where it started to affect the pedal rotation just a touch. I added threadlock to that nut and it hasn’t budged after about 6-8 hours of trainer rides, nor has it cut into the pod housing the other way either.
I’ve been doing primarly indoors and haven’t noticed any difference in ERG difficulty with my rides on Sufferfest. I have my Wahoo Kickr Snap connected to the power meters for power matching so it’s always used the Assiomas for power input. Given that I do believe the power accuracy is still there, though that’s entirely anecdotal. Eagerly awaiting more data from others with more robust testing abilities.
Heading to Arizona to climb Lemmon and Graham in early November, that will be the true test.
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To everyone who executed this hack, did you all had to chop some sole from your spd shoe? Or where there lucky ones who didn’t had to do that?
Hmm, I’ll have to have another go at it today.
