Damn, super cool!
First prize awarded to you for being the first with what appears to be a successful implementation of it!
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And @gpl,
Some new video material about this? Or should it be part of the hack or bodge from the GCN Show…
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Well this has definitely drawn more attention than I ever thought it would.
Before I did this “hack” I contacted Favero and here was the reply:
“thank you for your kind request! Unfortunately it is not possible to substitute the original pedal body with a different one, as all the pedals have different fixing parts. I would also inform you that we are not responsible for possible damages caused by operation like this. At the moment Assioma works only with its own cleats and original Look Keo cleats, nevertheless, as far as our engineers are continuosly developping cutting-edge news, we do not exclude this possibility to be implemented in the future on.”
What?!? Different “fixing parts”? I figured that was the response I would get but still felt it was worth a try.
I also reached out to Xpedo before the hack and they just weren’t sure it would work but agreed that the assioma and a few of their pedals use the same 3 bearing setup.
Without any definite answers I just said what the heck, let me try it. I ordered the xpedo m-force4, swapped pedal bodies and posted it here.
On a funny side note, yesterday I got a reply from xpedo saying that this hack may actually work and suggested I take a look at this guy who did it…and they linked me to my own post here on TrainerRoad.
In the end, this conversion seems to be working for me. I now have about 100 miles on them and no issues.
32 Likes
What do you mean by “mtb contaminate”?
And I thought that you were slagging off MTB like every road biker I talk to. Tongue in cheek of course.
It’s a great project for the OP as there wasn’t much happening in the marketplace. Please focus your attention on the commercial offerings as they become available.
Frankenstien your pedals for shits and giggles when you get enough spare time in between new product releases.
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Very true. I’m always happy to spend money on new tech to help it come along.
Really freaking annoying when it doesn’t work as described.
I’m guessing there will be a load of SPD PM pedals on the market within 12 months. I want your feedback on them.
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The great thing with this is that you can actually buy the left only spindle from Favero for 286 Euros making a left only SPD power meter pretty affordable, and you know, actually available…
Mike
MTB pedal power meters would be the most expensive thing I’ve ever done to a bike 
I have a bad habbit of destroying pedals with rock strikes. Of course I ride enduro and downhill not XC.
Part of me wants to see @gpl do this hack with the m-force 4 pedal body to confirm that the power numbers remain accurate and OP’s hack wasn’t a “fluke”.
Part of me wants to see @gpl do this hack with the CXR pedal body to show that the design of the Assiomas is that good, that it’ll work in multiple configurations.
Part of me wants to see @gpl skip this and just review the Bryton Rider 420.
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Slightly off topic…
Are any of Xpedos other road pedals that use the 3-bearing setup a clear upgrade over stock assioma pedal bodies?
Also, does anywhere stock Xpedo pedal bodies-only (sans spindle).
I very much doubt it.
The Thrust 8 and SL models both have injected carbon bodies rather than the nylon used on the NXL/Assioma bodies so there may be a slight weight saving.
Doesn’t look as though Xpedo sell the bodies separatly anyway.
Mike
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@ madmaximummodulus
so when i read about this, i said to myself… i think my SPD pedals are Xpedo m-force 4’s! Over the weekend, i verified it - yep! I was curious (very, VERY curious) - how did you remove the shaft from the body without damaging anything??
Any chance we could get some detailed instructions on the entire operation & tools used?
Or do we need to wait for GPLama to dive into this???
Thanks for sharing your brilliant “hack”!
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Here is a video of what I did. As you will see nothing special…remove an endcap, remove one nut, swap pedal bodies, replace nut (torque), replace endcap, go have fun.
This video was the right pedal body so the nut was left hand thread (left to tighten, right to loosen). The left pedal will be normal right hand thread. Both endcaps are right hand thread.
Endcap is 6mm hex.
Used a 9mm socket on nut. Torque on the nut is 8-10Nm according to GPLama but I have not confirmed this…I trust him
Here is the video:
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Thanks for taking the time to video this - i think i’m going to try this next month! (I’m going to need a socket with a thinner wall - shouldn’t be a show-stopper)
Thanks again - very reasonable way to get power pedals with SPD application.
I love it!
Stretch
All I can say is “Drool!” my wallet just ran to the door to hide (end of season - funds are gone).
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I’m also curious about using the CXR pedal. Also whether the UNO would change the hack at all.
Just wanted to say that I’ve recently done this with my Assioma duo’s, but I used a slightly cheaper M-Force 4 CR. This is for my gravel bike so I don’t break my face when I have to get off the bike from time to time on gravel, and I just like MTB pedals better. I’m not really concerned from getting pedals strikes either because of the bike it’s going on.
I had to grind a bit of my shoe’s tread away to keep it from touching the pod, but it’s really just a small amount of removal, the shoes need a bit of tread on either side of the cleat anyway so it sits on the pedal body right.
The accuracy is really good compared to my Kickr Core, I’ll throw them on my mtb bike that has a single sided 4iiii and see how well it tracks with a lot of bumps etc…:
^^for those interested I use Tableau Public to compare power meters after converting the FIT files to CSV using a python scrip I found. “Offsettime” is me aligning the timestamps manually because I think there is a slight delay in when my Garmin and my phone writes the data.
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(Edit: I didnt realize this wasnt free)
Not that what you did is wrong at all, but just in case you didnt know about it: DCR Analyzer Tool Overview & Manual
Great work and exciting to hear from more people trying it.
What is the sealing arrangement on the assioma axle? Do the spd pedal bodies seal well or are the bearings open?
Mike
I tried with the CXR’s and it was exactly the same process as the other one. Seems like a solid fit with no play.
Edit:
So be careful when tightening these down on the inner bolt, there’s no stop like the stock pedal bodies. It will keep going and will cut into the plastic housing on the other side (the pod). Thankfully I didn’t go too far into it before I realized. Not sure if this is a CXR thing or because i don’t have a torque wrench.
What I ended up doing was using blue threadlocker and tightening the inner bolt down to where it was just tight enough and letting the threadlocker cure.
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