Awesome, thanks for the feedback!
I’m now considering between the CXR and the m-force 4… don’t know anything about MTB/cross pedals so no real idea what the real difference is between the two.
What is is about the CXR that you preferred? As far as I can tell, the CXR might be “weighted”, but otherwise I don’t know what I’m looking at and how to differentiate
Damn, super cool!
First prize awarded to you for being the first with what appears to be a successful implementation of it!
Some new video material about this? Or should it be part of the hack or bodge from the GCN Show…
I’ve reached out to Favero to see what their take is on this hack. I’m super keen to to it myself, even if it voids warranty. Stay tuned!
Well this has definitely drawn more attention than I ever thought it would.
Before I did this “hack” I contacted Favero and here was the reply:
“thank you for your kind request! Unfortunately it is not possible to substitute the original pedal body with a different one, as all the pedals have different fixing parts. I would also inform you that we are not responsible for possible damages caused by operation like this. At the moment Assioma works only with its own cleats and original Look Keo cleats, nevertheless, as far as our engineers are continuosly developping cutting-edge news, we do not exclude this possibility to be implemented in the future on.”
What?!? Different “fixing parts”? I figured that was the response I would get but still felt it was worth a try.
I also reached out to Xpedo before the hack and they just weren’t sure it would work but agreed that the assioma and a few of their pedals use the same 3 bearing setup.
Without any definite answers I just said what the heck, let me try it. I ordered the xpedo m-force4, swapped pedal bodies and posted it here.
On a funny side note, yesterday I got a reply from xpedo saying that this hack may actually work and suggested I take a look at this guy who did it…and they linked me to my own post here on TrainerRoad.
In the end, this conversion seems to be working for me. I now have about 100 miles on them and no issues.
Oh… boovero! Party pooping all over the place.
If I can get a hold of another set, I’m doing this hack. I don’t want to ‘mtb’ contaminate my Lama Lab set.
I’d also have to read into their reply they’ve got an MTB power meter pedal in development. Still. Boo on their reply. Power to the people!
What do you mean by “mtb contaminate”?
It’s a term I made up on the spot to trigger people… I don’t want to take my (what I assume to be perfectly working AssiomaDUO I use on a very regular basis and MTB them up for science. Only having to switch them back an hour later to use them as road pedals. This is why I’d be getting a 2nd set, or an UNO set to convert for shits and giggles.
And I thought that you were slagging off MTB like every road biker I talk to. Tongue in cheek of course.
It’s a great project for the OP as there wasn’t much happening in the marketplace. Please focus your attention on the commercial offerings as they become available.
Frankenstien your pedals for shits and giggles when you get enough spare time in between new product releases.
Frankenstiening things might be more reliable and accurate than commercial offerings.
Very true. I’m always happy to spend money on new tech to help it come along.
Really freaking annoying when it doesn’t work as described.
I’m guessing there will be a load of SPD PM pedals on the market within 12 months. I want your feedback on them.
The great thing with this is that you can actually buy the left only spindle from Favero for 286 Euros making a left only SPD power meter pretty affordable, and you know, actually available…
MTB pedal power meters would be the most expensive thing I’ve ever done to a bike I have a bad habbit of destroying pedals with rock strikes. Of course I ride enduro and downhill not XC.
Part of me wants to see @GPLama do this hack with the m-force 4 pedal body to confirm that the power numbers remain accurate and OP’s hack wasn’t a “fluke”.
Part of me wants to see @GPLama do this hack with the CXR pedal body to show that the design of the Assiomas is that good, that it’ll work in multiple configurations.
Part of me wants to see @GPLama skip this and just review the Bryton Rider 420.
I won’t ask which parts want what…
I’ve had quick look at the 420. Bryton were at an event I attended in Taiwan last month and pulled one out to show me. If it addresses 1/2 my ‘fix list’ of the 450 it’ll be a step forward. The head unit market is a really tough one with Garmin and Wahoo dominating. Even the Stages Dash units are going to struggle, imo. I need to see/read about more people with them talking about them to change my mind.
The fact I can customise the Wahoo RADAR icon has me mildly amused at the moment… between other frustrations of technology. I had PacMan ghosts last night… and today was skull and crossbones indicating my potential death was behind me on the road.
Anyhow. I’m babbling on. Thanks for the tags and support for what I’m up to. This game of tech and bikes still fascinates me… which is why I keep at it.
Slightly off topic…
Are any of Xpedos other road pedals that use the 3-bearing setup a clear upgrade over stock assioma pedal bodies?
Also, does anywhere stock Xpedo pedal bodies-only (sans spindle).
I very much doubt it.
The Thrust 8 and SL models both have injected carbon bodies rather than the nylon used on the NXL/Assioma bodies so there may be a slight weight saving.
Doesn’t look as though Xpedo sell the bodies separatly anyway.
so when i read about this, i said to myself… i think my SPD pedals are Xpedo m-force 4’s! Over the weekend, i verified it - yep! I was curious (very, VERY curious) - how did you remove the shaft from the body without damaging anything??
Any chance we could get some detailed instructions on the entire operation & tools used?
Or do we need to wait for GPLama to dive into this???
Thanks for sharing your brilliant “hack”!
Here is a video of what I did. As you will see nothing special…remove an endcap, remove one nut, swap pedal bodies, replace nut (torque), replace endcap, go have fun.
This video was the right pedal body so the nut was left hand thread (left to tighten, right to loosen). The left pedal will be normal right hand thread. Both endcaps are right hand thread.
Endcap is 6mm hex.
Used a 9mm socket on nut. Torque on the nut is 8-10Nm according to GPLama but I have not confirmed this…I trust him
Here is the video:
Thanks for taking the time to video this - i think i’m going to try this next month! (I’m going to need a socket with a thinner wall - shouldn’t be a show-stopper)
Thanks again - very reasonable way to get power pedals with SPD application.
I love it!