Perfect thanks. Just ordered a pair cheapest I could find was £34 though!
For the CXR/Baldwin, you do not need to use loctite. I recommend against it for multiple reasons - mainly safety.
Best method for these Xpedo pedals is to remove the inside oil retainer / washer. This leaves the inside more susceptible to dirt/water ingress, but the bearings use rubber seals, which should provide some resistance. More importantly, the nut can be properly torqued to ensure the it doesn’t back off.
This is what I did with my CXRs, no trouble so far. Should probably give them a good clean soon though.
I can confirm Bontrager Comp fit as a straight swap. There doesn’t appear to be any unwanted play. However, the Assioma pedals don’t fit on the Bontrager axles as the bearing inner diameter is too small. This is different to the Xpedo axles which do allow the Assioma body to fit. Not sure why that is the case.
I ended up using the iSSi Flip III pedals so that I can clip in or use the flat platform depending on my ride, works perfectly (other than needing to cut down a portion of my bike shoes). The nut screws on perfectly tight without any loctite or anything needed.
Are you able to measure the bearing and shaft diameters and lengths?
Based on what you said (Bentrager pedal—>Favero axle is ok; Favero pedal —> Bontrager axle is no good), it seems like the Bontrager bearing inner diameters are larger than the Favero shaft.
If this is true: while the Bontrager pedal fits, the pedal may not be properly supported and could result in early bearing failure.
did it work with the Fizik Terra X5 ?
Does anyone know if the Wellgo M194 has the same kind of spindle and bearings as the M19? I’d really like to find a good flat pedal solution.
There are adapters that clip into one side of SPD pedals and make them flat pedals. I don’t have a link handy but I have seen them several times
Sorry I’m not being very clear. My intention for a “flat pedal solution” is something with grip pins appropriate for technical riding and sticky sole shoes like Five Ten’s. Since the M19 works, I’m wondering if the M194 does as well. Superficially, it looks like it could work.
Edit: I decided to take a chance and give it a try. I have a pair of M194’s on order and will pass along how it works out.
I tried to skim through the thread, but has anyone found a mtb flat pedal that will work.
So I can report that I got this to work with the Xpedo TRVS DUO - sort of. I decided to leave out the oil retainer - that was the only way I could fully lock the nut without binding the pedal body and I figure worst case I will have to replace these pedals (or at least the bearings) sooner rather than later. That seems like a better option than risking that the nut gets loose (locktite or not) and flies off in the worst moment (Murphy’s law and all). Since this is my only bike (and I use it for commuting to work and so need these duos), I am happy.
For people looking for flat pedals that work for the conversion, the TRVS Duo is a flat pedal in one side, SPD on the other.
So you might want to try this @Matt_Wong @Cheney
Hi noxway,
You inspired me to go for the assioma purchase & hack as I have the exact same blingin’ pedal as you. Thank you for sharing this! I finally have a power meter for my fat bike.
For people looking for flat pedals that work for the conversion, the TRVS Duo is a flat pedal in one side, SPD on the other.
So you might want to try this @Matt_Wong @Cheney
I’ve actually been using the TRVS Duo for a few months now. Frankly, it’s just not the right tool for the job: Platform is too small, too easy to get the wrong side of the pedal, and worst of all, I’ve had several incidents where I was pushing too hard and my foot slipped right off despite having gummy Stealth soles. That never happened with any other brand of MTB flat pedal I’ve ever used (HT, Kona, OneUp).
When you get right down to it, the Duo is really only meant for casual riders who sometimes don’t want to be bothered with SPDs on a local hop around town.
If the Wellgo M194 works, even that probably won’t be as good as the flat pedals I’m used to, but I’m hoping it will be good enough that I can treat it like a serious pedal without disappointment.
Okay, I took a short ride with the Wellgo M194 pedals. They appear to be compatible with some caveats.
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They just barely fit, but they do fit. I don’t sense any play at all.
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Loctite seems to be necessary. I’ll try to tighten them further later on, but I can’t do it with a regular 9mm socket. This requires an extension narrow enough to pass through the access hole in the pedal body.
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They do not appear to be three-bearing pedals. The inboard portion appears to be a bushing. I thought I heard folks mention that three-bearing pedals are necessary. Maybe that has more to do with the shape of the Xpedo spindle than the bearing count itself.
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the pins next to the axle are regular grub screws and should have good traction. The large pins around the edge are relatively slippery. They seem to be removable so perhaps they can be replaced with grub screws as well.
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The M194 pedals do not spin freely (most likely the bushing has something to do with this), but they didn’t spin freely out of the box either.
Thanks for sharing what you found.
The fact that the pedals don’t spin freely would concern me. It’s probably introducing a fair amount of friction, which means the power meter is going to read low. The question is how much effect it has.
It would be nice if you could compare to another power meter and share the results.
The fact that the pedals don’t spin freely would concern me. It’s probably introducing a fair amount of friction, which means the power meter is going to read low. The question is how much effect it has.
It would be nice if you could compare to another power meter and share the results.
The eMTB they’re running on has a built-in crank power meter. I know from prior testing that the two are within single digits of each other. Next time I take it out I’ll double check if there’s a noticeable bias.
I’m still getting terrible squeaking with the Xpedo CXR pedals and Shimano SPD cleats. I’ve tried dry lube and it kind of helps for an hour or so, but as soon as things get dusty, the squeak returns. Going uphill on gravel, every revolution is a torturous squeak squeak, especially when out of the saddle. Anyone have any recommendations? I’m to the point of trying a different pedal even though these were expensive.
You could try waxing the pedal body or your shoe sole / cleat. There are rub on waxes that would be easier to apply then melting.
Another option may be shoe shields if you can find some plastic ones