I’m still trying to average 30mph for 1 mile
Just try and find a good down hill mile and wait for a stiff 25mph tailwind😂.
No 10 mile downhills where I live. Hardly even 10 yards
I took a road bike with clip on bars & plenty of lights when I rode the National 24hr a few years ago.
- for a more relaxed position at night.
- easier to concentrate when tired at 2am on the night circuit which (if it is still the same) is mainly minor lanes (complete with slurry flowing across the road).
I also changed to a road helmet at night with small ultra bright cave diving lights on it, so the lights look where you look, no where the bike might be pointing.
I’s also suggest taking every bit of cycle clothing you own, even the winners change kit & you’ll be glad of it if it rains, as it usual does.
Have a large variety of different food & drinks available as what you like at the start, you will be bored with 10 hours in.
There is a chippy at Prees Heath which the supporters in the 24hr village appreciate greatly.
Saw a tweet this morning that the second to fourth placed riders in the 100 were all within 4s of each other. Maybe tie that cable back a bit more…
Actually I just remembered this; I managed it (30mph ave) but only for 1.6 miles on this free start
Thanks for this, @Aquazepp. Some great tips right there.
I’m going to take the full black TT as my primary wheels, with the red one as my backup/more relaxed position. I don’t know whether the course has changed, but the night section this time is pretty fast and flat, so if I can bear the black one after 12 hours, it will be faster.
I’ll be taking increasing doses of caffeine to help with concentration and alertness at night - its a powder that I put into my drinks. I’ve tested caffeine, and over 4-8 hour rides, it seems OK (I don’t notice much, but I’m feeling OK, so maybe its working). But like a lot of stuff here, over 12 hours and I’m into uncharted territory.
I’m going to have a think about the clothes and helmets. I’ll definitely take several changes, I don’t know whether to actually schedule these or see how I go.
I’ve double-padded my elbow rests with gel strips (Wiggle) and neoprene foam.
Not sure what more I can do with the saddle or shoes (although I have spare, wider shoes just in case my feet swell). Maybe I’ll try putting a known comfy road saddle on my spare bike to change the pressure slightly.
Another top tip… just keep moving forward, it doesn’t matter if you need to sit up for 20 minutes and just cruise at 10mph… you are still adding to the total distance, so don’t worry about it.
I’d appreciate some feed back on position. New bike, out testing an LGP09 (~ 5W slower than the Wasp I have already). Extensions are at the UCI limit and I’m grabbing beyond them at the moment to feel comfortable. I’d like to try lower, but waiting on shorter bolts.
Arms up tested ~10w slower for me a few weeks ago until I shrugged. So that’s one I want to go back and try again in more stable conditions.
(Excuse the screen grab from a video).
For folks that use grip tape on the base bars, what tape are you using? I have been using 3M Safety Walk, but have recently noticed the actual anti slip material is degrading really quickly. I used to be able to go a few months before a bit of the anti slip would kind of smooth out, and maybe expose the adhesive. Now I can barely get 5 hrs of ride time (on the base bars) before the rough coating is completely gone. Is it possible the tape “expired” and whatever holds that rough coating onto the base tape is no longer effective? Just trying to decide if I should just get a new roll or look elsewhere.
I use a soft grip tape from PSP designed for dinghys / sailing. Much much nicer on the hands and holds up well in outdoors conditions.
I just replace the grip tape often. I use a roll of cheap stuff designed for stairs from Amazon.
I just bought 5m of cheap grip tape off ebay and replace it about twice a season… given the length of the roll, I’d better not retire from TTs any time soon.
I’m using a heat shrink material that’s designed for handgrips for fishing rods. Not a whole lot of cushion, but it has a tacky rubber texture that’s pretty grippy.
I bought a roll of skateboard grip tape off ebay. Like others have found, even if I wear it down (which I haven’t yet) I’ll be TTing until I’m 100 before I need another roll…
I only use it on the base bar, and its not comfortable, but I’m rarely on it for more than 1/60th of the time I’m racing.
For the upcoming 24, I chickened out and put both gel pads and cork tape over the top!!
Good point. TTs are so much more enjoyable when you can sneak in a rest, even in 10s – it’s often faster too!
Lol, I often wonder. My virtual climbs records have been set on intervals sessions with recovery blocks inbetween. Perhaps I should recreate that on the road
Try it! Most climbs will have a false flat/flat/slight downhill – keep the speed up but try to take a recovery.
It’s the same for TTs. If there’s an opportunity to soft pedal whilst still going fast, take it, then hammer when you need to. Even letting your HR drop 2-3bpm gives you headroom to go harder when it matters
This is a really interesting point (the variability of TTs). When I use best bike split to plan pacing for even flat TTs, it shows quite a lot of variability; hard on the hills, which for me is ~320, easier on the fast bits, which is probably 250.
On my last 25m TT, which was a PB and I think I paced well, my NP was 291, AP 288, and variability 1.03 - which is close (for me) but I note some of the other guys have variability 1.01, and even less gap between NP and AP.
I agree with @sam.fuller1 and @Aquazepp (and, it appears, best bike split) that some variance is best (as long as you’re trying harder on the slower bits, and backing off when you’re already travelling quickly). Same for a hill-climb.
The trick with all this is working out how much over FTP you can go without doing terminal damage!
CP and W’ or, as some people call it work above redline, can help with this, though in my experience it’s better for a hilly 10. 25s start to show some shortcomings of the model as you’re working at redline rather than over / under.
Looking at my TT’s this year when there’s little variance I can get a lot of power out (a lot of power for me anyway ) but add in a few variations I struggle to get out 40-60w less