Yeah, crazy to limit to 2.2 this day and age. 2.2 would be pretty limiting on some of the rooty areas of the world.
Note the very best XCO riders in the world almost all had droppers and decent tyres for Snowshoe. Not an overly technical race compared to most the circuit this year.
Can I hear a couple of height/inseam measurements and what size supercaliber your riding?
Im 5ā11" with a 31-32" inseam. Iāve always ridden Mās in most brands. Trekās site says im a M/L and the guys at the Trek store were fairly adamant that I should be a L. Iād obviously lean towards their recco but im still having a bit of a tough time pulling the trigger on a Large
Iām in the same boat as you. Iād probably go up to an L. Interestingly I was just rewatching the pinkbike group test review this morning and Sarah Moore talked about sizing up a bit in the video.
FWIW, im 186cm, 80kg. 81cm inseam. 715mm saddle rail height. 720mm bars with 16 degrees of sweep (which takes 10-15mm reach away c/f ~9 deg bars) i like my dirt bikes a little small and like longer stems. i run a large with an 80mm -17 stem and itās perfect for me. if youāre into more conventional fit and/or shorter stems, definitely go large. the XL to me felt like steering a truck, but the large is just right. the large will not be too big for you unless you insist on an 80mm+ stem.
sarah moore is an accomplished rider, but her fit advice is different. she runs like 760+ bars on XC bikes. a) thats unorthodox, especially for her stature and b) affects other dimensions of the bike fit.
I am 5,11 and ride the M/L Supercal. Fitted a longer stem than usual 100mm -17 degree and a good amount of post is showing but the bike feels nimble and easy to maneuver at slower speeds.
Has any of you put a chain guide on your supercaliber? Iāve been trying to get my hands on one by MRP since July last year but delivery kept being postponed. Yesterday I found the part at an online store from the UK and ordered it there. Had my chain dropped once since I own my bike and even I stopped pedalling immediately I got the paint chipped at the location right where the chainstay protection ends. That is also the location where the chain immediately digs into when being dropped so Iām also a bit disappointed Trek hasnāt provided some sort of protection there. I have a clear protective film on the frame but this got stripped by the chain right away.
Same thing in the back - chain got dropped once, while I was cleaning the bike and turning the crank backwards and not paying attention. Stripped a layer of paint from the dropout immediately. Saw similar damage at another forum recently. All my other bikes are not that sensitive to chain being dropped as my supercaliber. But I guess itās part of the game. I hope I can fit a chain guide soon to protect the front. No ideas yet how I can protect the rear, other than paying more attention in the future.
It clamps around the bottom bracket bearing cup. The crank needs to be removed to fit it. The part is not made by TREK, it is a MRP Trek BB Clamp 30-36T.
I have a 2020 SuperCaliber 9.7 that I got in Dec 2021⦠I race in Cat 2/Sport in my age bracket.
I bought the bike thinking it would be a huge improvement over my 2020 Kona Hei Hei 29er. (which I raced last year). Mid way through the season that hasnāt seemed to be the case yet.
I lost about 10 lbs, feel more fit⦠but seem to struggle on technical trails (race in NE USA, states PA, MD, NJ, DE). Tech riding is typically strong suit, but I find the super cal ābouncyā at times, especially if I am not just ripping through stuff.
I setup my suspension and tire air pressure based on Trek susp calculator, and did some test loops adjusting rebound up/down to my preference.
I am 185lb, 5ā9 riding a L frame,
front tire 21 psi(XR2)⦠front shock @ 117 psi (15% sag), 9 clicks out on rebound, full comp.
rear tire 24 psi.(XR4). rear shock @ 160 psi (13.3% sag) 5 clicks out on rebound, full comp.
Anyone find the need to retune the bike susp for the style of course you are riding? Or any similar experiences. I feel at times I am fighting the bike through tech sections, and canāt solve whatās going on.
I finished 4th in the season last year on the Hei Hei⦠the super cal was supposed to help me get to the podium. This year I am running 7th at the mid point. It is a more competitive field, and 3rd is still a real possibility⦠but not if I keep dropping spots in races on lap #2 due to being fatigued from working the bike so much lap #1.
Its a razor sharp bike takes alot of focus and finesse to exploit it. It can bite you when you get tired. And it is more fatiguing.
I weigh what you weigh and i run between 200 and 210psi in the shock with small spacer and alot of rebound damping. Just a couple clicks from closed. That gets me 6.Xmm in sag. (160 got you 13.3%?)
How long is your stem? What angle and how many spacers.
Unless youre racing enduro type trails the bike shouldnt put you 5 places back compared to a 2 or 3 pound heavier and less efficient hei hei.
I donāt have a SuperCaliber, but if the bike feels too ābouncyā, with the sag set at 15% and 13%, whatās the harm in setting more sag (say 20% on both) and riding it for a few weeks to test? Or maybe adjusting the rebound to be slower in both front and back?
Iām surprised at the sag percentage - it seems low. Iām not familiar with how the rebound settings work, but your description of ātoo bouncyā sounds either like ānot enough sagā or ārebound is too fast for the trails youāre ridingāā¦
Iām racing a summer series in the same states (mid-Atlantic super series), and my Blur TR (120mm front, 115mm rear travel) is set to 20% sag on bothā¦