TR Ramp Test Optimal?

Old question…but what is the 2021 view on the ramp test for optimal results…ERG or Resistance mode and little or big ring? I am on a Wahoo Kickr snap, indoors. Thanks.

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Erg, and the ring you use for most of your workouts.

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Welcome to the TR forums.

IMHO, I find it easier to control power in the small ring in erg mode.

Pure personal preference, because “optimal” is relative.

  • There are reasons to choose ERG or RES or STD.
  • There are reasons to choose low gearing (and flywheel speed) and use high gearing (and flywheel speed).

What really matters is looking at your needs and preferences, choosing and then sticking with that. For the Ramp test, I think using the same basic conditions (gearing and trainer mode) that you plan to use for most of your training is the best approach.

Other than that, it’s totally up to you.

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Thanks all who have replied much appreciated.

Supplemental - I have just got the Kickr snap after years on road ( as stuck indoors!)…I have a power meter on the bike on the turbo. Should I (a) power match or (b) use the Kickr only? Based on your experiences which option is the most “accurate” or consistent indoors ( I am well aware that power outputs indoors are different to outdoors typically lower) but just looking for the most consistent approach/power readings?

Ramp test if you are new, verify with Kolie Moore Progression 1 to confirm with that target power.

Thanks will test both & compare.

My kicker snap accuracy is TRASH. Power readings are all over the place. If you have a legit power meter I would always use that. I’m sure some kicker snaps have more accurate readings but in general I believe wheel on power readings are inferior to normal power meters.

Might be interesting to pair both at same time to compare readings. For me, kicker snap reports 150 watts whereas power meter shows 200 watts. Huuuuge difference

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How do you know it isn’t your power meter that is trash?

Asking because I have a kickr snap also lol…

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I have a kickr snap - the power is consistent but I find it is massively affected by the gear you use - last year I used the big chainring and mid part of the cassette - 50x17 I think (I have a compact on my turbo bike) - that gave me a FTP of 300W but I couldn’t get the wattage floor so all my recoveries floated above the proper power. Now use the 34x17 and my FTP is 270W from the ramp test…but now I can control the power and get a smooth result in ERG mode. Plus it more closely matches the 268W I managed in a road bike TT last year for 54mins (my TT bike FTP is a bit lower)…not as good for the ego but a better trainer experience. I have 2 power meters - one on the TT bike and one on the summer road bike but can’t be arsed to swap them across and I have heard about some problems with power match. Doesn’t really matter as I test and train with the same set up which I think is the key point :grinning:

Great question! Using only the snap, I noticed at times I would fail a workout in the 1st 10 min, and other times it would be incredibly easy. That was my first clue that there was a consistency problem. I bought favero pedals and sure enough the power was off by a ton. My girlfriend also bought a power meter (4iii) and she is seeing the same differences in power. I haven’t tested it yet but 4iii and the favero are very close to eachother based on how much higher each are relative to the kicker snap.

Hrmm interesting. My kickr seems to have consistent power. But it does seem to read about 15-20 watts less than my 4iiii.

I’d LIKE to believe the kickrs power is trash for vanities sake :joy:

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Hard to know for sure but you’d have to assume a dedicated power meter is more accurate than wheel on. I’d guess your 4iii is more accurate so go with that!

Yay! I’ve gotten over 300 watts now lol :joy:

NICE!!! 300 club! You can imagine my excitement when I went from failing workouts at 230 ftp to ramp testing at 301 with the favero duos haha.

My Snap is worthless for power numbers. I never even tested it for repeatability as the number is just so insanely low to be pointless for me. Yeah, probably close to 50 watts difference. I have four bikes with four power meters, all are relatively close. The Snap is no where close to them.

FUnny though, my GF just used the Snap for an FTP test, without a PM on her bike. She may be a “new” rider, but as an ultra runner and someone I have ridden with a lot now, I know for sure she has more than 100 watts (sub 2 w/kg).

I do like to use the Snap in a lower gear, seems to provide the best results for me. The trainer is just a tool.

Glad there is someone else experiencing similar issues. I wish there were some sort of PSA for users of wheel on trainers because of the negative impact it could have on TR training. had I have knows this was a problem ahead of time I would have spent my money on a different trainer

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I agree but am happy with the Kickr snap (especially in lockdown with TR and loud music) as long as I fully appreciate it’s limitations which from all these comments seem to be;

  • It is only a tool. It will never replicate what I can do outdoors.

  • My Turbo FTP is lower indoors (in my case 260 outdoors = 230 indoors)

  • Wheel on Turbos are probably less accurate than drive train

  • If you have a turbo with a power meter (in my case 4iii) use the power meter it is almost certainly more accurate

    To test “almost certainly” Benchmark v Kolie Moore Progression

  • To deep dive analyse the turbo v power meter power data use the DCR Analyzer tool

  • ERG or Resistance Ramp Test…ERG wins (as long as using Power Meter)

  • little or big ring - replicate what you mostly train to outdoors

Thanks all.

Use power match so that numbers are comparable indoors and outdoors.

Will try thanks - the sun is allegedly arriving soon here in London so will give it a go!

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