You should think about getting yourself a new Phenom. I used that saddle for years but found they became uncomfortable after a certain amount of use due to the shell getting more flexible.
Mike
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After wasting money on the Selle Italia I mentioned in my original post I took another shot in the dark on a Fizik Tempo Argo and itās fantastic. Iāve always ridden narrower saddles (143mm) and this is a 160mm and itās excellent so far.
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You whatās interesting, the Phenom design has changed a bit too. I have two of them, both are labeled Phenom, but one looks cheaper than the other. The other noticeable difference is the size of the cutout. The cheaper one has a noticeably smaller cutout and it looks overall cheaper with a more rounded nose and not as angular overall shape.
The good Phenom (with the white dots):
The cheap looking Phenom:
You have a mix there.
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The top is an older model (prior generation), and specifically what I think is an āExpertā level model (Per the rail marking). It is a more āracyā model with less padding and lower weight than the one below.
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The bottom is closer to the latest model, but has some differences too so I am not entirely sure. I think is the āCompā level model. It is a more ācasualā model with more padding and weight.
Specialized (like most brands) offers the same basic mode (Phenom in this case) in several styles and price points (7 total at present). The Phenom ranges from the entry Comp at about $140, up to the S-Works at $325. They also offer some different padding options (not just amount) in the regular, Elaston and Mimic styles.
Only point being that there is a wide range of options in pure style, and double that for the fact that each is available in at least 2 sizes. So itās one reason that once you find a saddle that works, lock down the info so you now precisely the model and consider buying one or more spares to have for future use.
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Iām a fan of SQLab saddles. They come in about five different sizes for each saddle type. You need to have your sit bones measured and then you pick the right saddle width depending on how aggressive your position is. SQlab bicycle saddle āErgonomic āComfortable āWomen and men
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Iāve been uncomfortable the entire Summer. I bought this saddle a couple weeks ago (150) and itās been amazing. 3-5 hour rides with no issueās. My butt thanks you for the recommendation! 
Thatās great to hear. My only other experience with a Fizik was with one of their Antares models that was flat with no cutout and it was horrible. The Tempo Argo has been great so farāglad you are enjoying it.
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not going to read the entire thread to see if its been posted yet, but ive been super happy with the specialized power mirror saddle. I believe the only difference from the specialized one to the s-works is carbon rails and marginal weight savings. Never had any issue outdoors but when my butt is glued to the saddle on the trainer, I was getting pretty antsy to get off at an hour previously. The mirror saddle combined with a rocker plate has made boredom my limiting factor
I have gone down this rabbit hole. I picked up ISM PR3.0. I previously had a very good bike fit and am making only incremental changes on my fit with the new saddle. No more numbness which is great. But still doing some tweaking.
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Out of curiosityā¦would saddle fit/width affect right foot numbness? Looking back at some old bike fit records, one fit had me at 130 for recommended saddle with a pre-fit issue of right toe numbness. I donāt think I ever made that change and am still (ten years later) dealing with the same issue.
130 seems pretty narrow for this bog-standard 167 cm male frame with 90ish air bone width. 130 also seems pretty hard to find too, but wondering if I should start trying out new saddles I think Iām at 140 on my current ones so not sure how much difference that would make to do 130ish?
Have you tried lowering the saddle and/or seeing if you have a leg length discrepancy? Purely a guess, but if one leg is going numb and not the other, it could be that.
I think this is something to explore. I have no experience with a ābadā saddle so take that with a grain of salt, but James from Francis Cadeās Youtube series and a professional fitter says, most saddles will work with most people and that itās usually not the saddle that makes the saddle uncomfortable. Saddle height, tilt and other related fit elements need to be checked. He also says, go narrower before you go wider and that āsit bonesā measurements are a myth created by Specialized. I switched from a 143mm saddle to a 132mm one and Iām happy with it. Iād watch a few of those videos and see if something resonates with you.
This coming from someone who has tried quite a few saddles. I have a shelf with the ones Iāve tried and taken off over the years, but looking back on it, none of the saddles I had were ever uncomfortable. I think I was just chasing all the hype looking for something that I could never find.
Now this is a hot take they should have on the podcast 
Iām using 155mm saddles and if they were any narrower, Iād be supporting myself purely on the squishy parts down there. I fail to see how thats better.
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I hear you, but James really is a magician when it comes to bike fit, so it is worth trying if you havenāt before.
I can give that a shot. If I vary my position a lot, that seems to make things better, which is why I was starting to think maybe itās a saddle thing. If I am seated for long sustained efforts (SST) then it gets worse. If I am doing standing up stuff (or varying position a lot) then it seems to be better.
The leg that goes numb for some reason is really externally rotated by default so have also wondered if I need a higher q-factor or something like that may help. Iāve messed with cleat position a bit and have definitely? been able to make it worse with that 
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Are you experiencing this inside and outside, or just one location?
My right hip is turned out do to an injury. My foot wants to point outward. To allow this to happen,and keep my knee over my foot, not hit my heel on the crank arm, I have put a dura-ace long axel pedal on the right side. Kinda expensive because I now have to buy 2 sets of pedals. 1 std and one long axel. I also have shims under the cleat on that side.
People who think the saddle is the key to fit issues have fit issues not saddle issues.
Lower your saddle and start again.
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So one saddle to rule them all, no need for different shapes / sizes / padding / etc.?
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Mostly on the inside - big toe goes first follows by others depending on time.