Love my quarq on the Dzero platform. Running a 50/34 no issues
Could you buy a 11s shimano cassette with the concave carrier, and a 11s cassette with close spacing? Then use the special concave bit from the mtb cassette and the rest from the other cassette. Might need to check if any and which sprockets are on a spyder.
Wish I’d know (or dug deep enough to find out) about the shimano mtb cassettes working on the old hubs, before buying a 10 speed one. Ah well, next time, its fun bodging your bike together!
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No, you are right, it isn’t. Shimano is decidedly taking a different approach with gearing. They prefer to add finer steps in between climbing gears at the expense of having less closely spaced gears at the top. Their weird 11-34 cassette is the epitome of that. (I write weird, because I don’t understand who this cassette is meant for. If I want more climbing gears, I’ll get a wolftooth and a 11-40 or 11-42 cassette. Or 11-36 in case I want to skimp out on the Wolftooth extender.)
I can kind of see the logic, in that when you’re going downhill (or at speed in a paceline) having a big jump on your small cogs does make sense. Similar to big jumps on your large cogs… with which the jumps get bigger the higher up you go. This also makes sense since presumably the larger the cog you’re in, the steeper the grade…
It really all depends on your chainrings. I personally think 1x needs special cassettes where there are, say, 1 tooth jumps in the middle 5 cogs and 2-3-4 tooth jumps at the 3 cogs either side (for an 11 speed system).
Yep, I have one of Cannondale’s SiSL2 Quarq 2x PM cranksets, running a 34 on the inside but I get my range from an SLX/GRX 11-42 on the back. No complaints
I think the logic is as follows: on the flats you have a given range where you feel comfortable, say 85-100 rpm. When you shift gears, you ideally want to stay within your comfortable cadence range. When you climb, your comfortable cadence range widens, most people climb with a lower cadence than when they turn the pedals on the flats. So larger gaps aren’t felt as negatively.
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This thread maybe got a little off topic from cranks to cassettes but I though I’d put here that Power2Max recently released a spider power meter aimed at sub-compact chainrings. They are calling them gravel PMs but they sell them with both normal offsets and GRX offsets and can fit smaller chainrings than were compatible with their previous PMs.
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I considered this as well but read (of course can’t find link now…) pedal-based systems aren’t very accurate in gravel conditions
I can’t speak for anyone else’s experience but so far mine have been spot on and I’m approaching 2,800 miles on gravel with the pedals and probably another 1,000 miles or so on the road (I move them to my road bike occasionally).
I previously had a single-sided Stages crank-based power meter on my gravel bike and it was atrocious for me. On the other hand, I’ve got a friend with the same Stages powermeter and it’s been accurate for him.
I have stock Praxis Alba 48/32 on my Diverge - I was searching for a dual-sided power meter (spider-based preferably) with alloy crank arms for under $700 and can’t find anything - do they exist at this price level?
I have the Pioneer Ultegra on my road bike and it’s great (also shows force vectors and pedaling efficiency) - got it for $700 on sale. Can’t justify spending more for my gravel bike though as I hit the cranks on rocks at times, plus in general that power meter will have to put up with offroad conditions. I’ve dented by front chainring a few times too, so looking for something where chainrings don’t cost too much.
I now have two of these. Not a lot of miles yet but the rings shift faster than the Easton’s just for reference. I also like the 48/31 option better than the 46/30 BTW. The one tooth bigger small ring isn’t noticeable at all, but going from a 46 to a 48 in the front helps with downhills or riding with my road wheels on my gravel bike.
You could always go with a standard Shimano crank with a PM, and putting on aftermarket subcompact chainrings. Absolute Black, and maybe Praxis make them to fit standard Shimano cranks. One guy I ride with found some generic ones on Ebay too.
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These look interesting. Any idea if they will clear at Power2Max 110bcd spider though?
I’m in the same boat. I’ve got 34/46 rings on a Power2Max with a 42T MTB cassette on the back at the moment and I was going to try adding a Wolftooth to get a 46T cassette on there for steeper off-road stuff (yeah, yeah, I should just buy a MTB). But now I see another use for my Compact Power2Max (the grrl’s bike) I’m reconsidering getting sub-compact cranks for my gravel bike.
I don’t want any crank arm powermeter. I don’t want any pedal powermeters.
That leaves me with Cinch, Rotor IN/2IN or P2M so far as I can see.
Cinch I don’t know anything about. Rotor gets slated for its accuracy and those P2M units have battery holders held together by hopes and dreams so not great off-road.
Anyway, this list is helpful, it would be good to have a rough price alongside each option for comparison sake. I’m still not sure which way to go with this - it is a lot cheaper to go the Wolftooth+46T route but the gaps are getting silly and the shifting will definitely suffer some more.
good question. I’m not sure. I have power2max on my bikes now with their gravel power meter but it’s a different bcd I believe. Do you need the shimano version? I have a set of 46/30’s that are on a crank that we pulled. I’d be happy to send it to you if you’re in the US if you just pay the shipping.
Very kind but I’m in Europe. After some more looking around this morning I think I’m pretty much set on getting another P2M. I can get the 24mm, 165mm with 30/46 and then my missus can have my old P2M cranks and BSA30 BB. They take the same batteries. I’m concerned with the easy-to-lose battery cover but there are options for that
Looks like it’s 104mm bcd (same as my SS MTB cranks I think):
https://www.power2max.com/en/product/ngeco-gravel-rotor-power2max-edition-set/
Any new thpughts on this? I can not fit a left side PM, thinking about going GRX with right side only. I would love to get the P2M NGecco, but its a bit above budget. Also considering the XCadey 104 BCD and trying to figure out some rings to use (maybe FSA, still confused about this).
I think standard spacing 46t ring should clear my chainstays (I have fit a 46t single ring), but they were designed around GRX spacing, so maybe I should just stick to 4iii right side only?
The spiders on the spider based PMs (IE p2m gravel) is what decides the chainlines right, not the chainrings?
Noticed you posted this back in Aug, 2020. How are your Zayante cranks and 4iiii power meter working out with a few more km on them?
I ask because after about 12,000km of mixed surfacing riding (in 1 year) I am looking at going through a warranty process for the second time - on both occasions the PM gradually started reporting lower power readings and giving me spikey data (larger fluctuations). Currently reading almost 30% lower than my smart trainer. 4iiii service has been great but it is a bummer to lose the PM for the 2+ months that it takes to send it back and forth, switching crankset (if you have a spair) … General reviews for 4iiii products have been very positive - I am wondering if the issue is the attachment to the carbon cranks and use on gravel.
So far still good but it has not been faultless. I should say I have a 4iiii on both an aluminum zayante as well as the carbon(I have liked the performance enough to double up). The carbon is a more recent purchase and has yet to have any issues. I have had maybe 2 or 3 real issues over the life of the aluminum one which is my original and is going on 4 years old and is the one on my gravel set up. Most little niggles could be cured with a battery flip and/or a new battery and were signaled by a sudden shift in charge amount(80% left then a drop out and coming back at 50% or something similar). Most recently during the first 3 weeks of sustained power build it tried to kill me by reading low on certain workouts. But after contacting 4iiii and getting the long list of trouble shooting tips from checking battery contacts to flipping the battery and using the app to do a factory reset. I had done a few battery flips in the past to good effect but this last time the factory reset through the app plus a new battery did the trick and it has been smooth, predictable sailing since then. I was wondering if they’d ask for it back this last time but any of the times I’ve contacted them for help they email me the troubleshooting stuff, I go through a few of the items and it generally puts things back to right so they haven’t recommended I send it in for service yet. It is a curiosity at what age the thing will finally putz out and need at least returning if not replacing, I have no idea how long a power meter is supposed to last.
Good to hear. I have appreciated the support 4iiii has provided, maybe I have just been a little unlucky. Will give them another shot.
PS. Your response made me chuckle. The first time my PM started reading low I didn’t have anything to compare the reading against. I thought it was me. Like you I worked harder to compensate with poor results.