I couldn’t figure why I couldn’t put my bike on the direct drive trainer. I couldn’t push the back of the bike down, and it was getting stuck about 10 cm from the cassette.
Was the bike aligned? Yep, no issues there.
Did I… shift into the small ring? Yep, no issues there.
Turns out that the rear thru-axle was still on the bike
using a 2 dollar shop ironing board as my computer and water bottle stand, 47 minutes up alpe du zwift well on pace for a PR the ironing board collapsed, computer smashed on the floor (lost my session), hdmi broke inside my laptop and water bottles exploded everywhere
Love the responses. Prior to getting my Kickr I had a mag trainer and failed to secure the bike to said trainer and crashed out of the trainer during a rather high intensity interval. Twice.
Oh! I tried helping my 5yr old finish some hard levels on her Lego Harry Potter xbox game, while doing a 15 minute threshold interval. Finished the level, and the interval…but christ that was one of the hardest 15 minutes of my life lol.
About a year ago, my bike started creaking during any efforts above 250W. At first I thought it was the speedplay pedals because I had yet to regrease them since purchasing them about a year ago. So I finally got myself the grease gun and went to work on the pedals.
Bike still creaks.
So after a few more days of trying to simultaneously put down power while paying close attention to where the creak might be coming from, I realized that it wasn’t the pedals. It was the saddle! I could even get off the bike and flex the saddle with my hands and get the creak at will. Eureka.
So I started the lengthy process of trying to fix my creaky saddle. Checked that everything saddle-related was tightened. Still creaked. Went online, noted (smugly if I might add) that others are complaining about creaking with the same saddle. Someone mentioned that creaking comes from where the rails meet the saddle body. So I WD40 all around there. No more creak! Ecstasy! You know how it is, solving a creak is like getting a new bike.
Few days later, creak is back. Ok, so the WD40 wore off. I’ll try something more substantial like generic grease. But after application, the creak is still there! WTF. Screw this saddle.
So I bought a new saddle. Installed it. Lo and behold the creak is …
still there.
Out of promising leads, I decided to just live with it. However 2 weeks later, I realized that my rear skewer was loose. Tightened it a half turn and the bike has not creaked since.
interestingly enough, i rode Rouvy for a year and the simulated mountains/hills in that are very accurately represented in resistance. If you’re going downhill, your pedalling can be meaningless.
I see stuff like this in the ramp test all-rides listing pretty regularly. It makes me sad. TR should really build some autodetection in and just cut people off when power drops over a couple of minutes.
Not really on the trainer but recently during a TR outdoor workout.
Easy ride with 150W (50min) sustained power.
But what sould be a easy ride felt pretty exhausting.
Then half way in the ride I noticed I was looking at heartrate instead of power.
Tried to play fetch with one of my dogs in a recovery interval. He’s a 75-lb Golden Retriever, and his favorite fetch toy is plush bear-octopus thing that’s a bit long. He fetched, then swapped to tug-o’-war and almost pulled me and the bike over sideways.
About halfway through a 5a turbo session I began thinking my bib shorts didn’t feel as comfortable as they used to. As I was working through what I think was a sweet spot workout (this was two years ago), I looked at my thigh thinking the bib logo – “Rapha” – appears quite dark. I pondered for a moment, “isn’t it supposed to be bright yellow? did the color wash out?” And then it hit me: they were inside out. I got off, reversed them and yes, they felt much better.
On my first ever trainer (Smart trainer AND Trainerroad) experience, a ramp test, I mistook the cadence figure for wattage and so was constantly trying to chase the target wattage with the cadence figure!