The closest thing you’ll likely get is inserts, which aren’t exactly like a 2 piece wheel bolted around the tire since it still has to stretch on, and more like a beadlock you’d find on an offroad or drag application for cars. A 2 piece wheel is somewhat more feasible now that we have disc brakes, but still not really something that would work for a bike wheel.
That or maybe one day someone will design a means to install an airtight bladder inside of the tire that will provide an outward pressure against the tire and help lock it into the rim. Sadly I feel this technology will never come.
Sorry to hear that, hope you are better. Those 353NSW wheels are 25mm internal, and if the first post in this thread is accurate, and I read it correctly, then I think 28mm tires are not approved (or going to be approved) for use on such a wide rim.
I’m with you on going hooked, my wheels are Roval Rapide CLX II at 21mm internal and hooked. I’ve had some close calls descending on box aluminum rims and tubes, and carbon tubeless. My wheels are now setup for riding in the mountains and I’ve got Vittoria Air-Liners for added safety margin.
There have been a plethora of reports of the GP5000 (even the non-tubeless) being extremely tight at launch, to the point that people gave up on mounting them. Later batches seem to have had a change to resolve this. But if one of the biggest bike tire manufacturers can screw it up, so can anyone.
You attribute the reduced costs of wheels primarily with hookless. I don’t. I mainly attribute it to the growing Chinese competition. So many people started using them now that we have disc brakes and you don’t have to worry about overheating the rim. That put a lot of downward price pressure on the big brands. Chinese prices haven’t dropped much for hookless as far as I can tell.
The best system I have used is on Bontrager MTB wheels (I’m not sure if the road wheels do the same). They have a rigid molded plastic rim strip that not only is super reliable for ensuring no leaks through the nipple holes, it has big ridges that keep the tire bead pushed against the rim. Even with a fully deflated tire you really have to work the bead to break the seal. That’s what the industry should move to, IMO.
Yup, I am still shocked that they seem to be the only ones with that style of trip. Works amazing on the road & MTB wheels I use. Unsung hero in a way.
Has anybody used a bit of mastik on the beads? Not like bolting it on but in conjunction with an insert might make it bombproof. Course good luck getting it off. Still….tire failure even at flat time trial speeds 25-30mph seems plenty bad.
In that article they talk about how only certain tires will work (and implicit in that is that those tires have consistent quality). I don’t wish to limit myself to a small compatibility list nor put so much faith in their QC. A tire that looks and acts completely fine 99% off the time but had disaster the other 1%, which I have no way of detecting myself until it’s too late, is a big part of my objection.
Yes, if I put on a tubeless tire and it is too easy to install, I take it off and sell it. Same if its too hard to install - like the pair of 5000 S TR that I bought and sold.
I have a set of Bontrager road wheels with the strips. I haven’t had great luck with the plastic rim bed locking device thing. They seem to work well for holding the tire in place, but I cannot get mine to seal despite pulling them cleaning them reseating them numerous times. Possibly they aren’t liking my gravel kings and I kind of need new tires anyway, but I had better luck with these wheels holding air with a gorilla tape rim strip than these things.
Yeah bit that article says ours not just diameter. It’s also how easily the bead stretches. And they don’t mention it, but bead shape also has to be a factor. Material changes happen due to poor QC, supplier change, new PFAS regulations, etc. I work in the auto industry, I know how often silent changes happen or QC fails.
I’m not categorically rolling them out forever, but there’s no good incentive IMO to justify me being a Guinea pig
FWIW I haven’t had bead stretch since the early days (for me thats 2018 and 2019). I still have a few used tubeless tires from 2020 and 2021 and they are not easy to install.
I don’t think it is something I’d want to deal with and can think of some issues, similar to using RTV on car gaskets where it doesn’t belong. Basically causes different problems that lead to what you were trying to avoid in the first place.
on road wheels the plastic rim strip interferes with installing tires. For that reason every Trek shop around here will put tape in a Bontrager road wheel.
All of this is why I’m still running old school tubed clinchers. I’m waiting for the industry to get through teething problems with tubeless road tires (I run tubeless gravel bike tires) before I switch
I guess I am lucky then, with the road and CX wheel/tires I have used. No real issues to complain about compared to some other beasts I have battled (older Shimano sealed rim tubeless in particular).
Isn’t this called a tube?