A tube flat every 3 to 4 weeks is why I’m running tubeless. IMHO tubeless just works now, and has since 2020.
5 Likes
easy tradeoff, I’d rather continue riding than stop on the side of the road and replace a tube.
3 Likes
I have the Hunt X-Wide Gravel Wheelset, which is hookless, and just got the email below.
IIRC the recommendation for 32mm tires was 70psi, but I could be wrong.
I run either pathfinder pros in a 42 on these wheels at 30-40psi, or GP5000 S TR in a 32 at 40-50psi.
Screenshot of the new lower recommendations:
We hope you are enjoying your wheels.
Here at HUNT we pride ourselves on serving you, the riders, and that includes our after sales care.
You are being contacted because you have purchased wheels from us which use a hookless, or Tubeless Straight Sided (TSS) rim design.
With this in mind, we’re taking the opportunity to update you on the maximum tyre pressures to be used with hookless rims based on the latest 2023 guidance from the European Tire and Rim Technical Organisation (ETRTO).
For safety reasons you must not exceed the maximum tire pressure limits set out in the table below, or the maximum limit set by your tire manufacturer if this is lower.
To read about the recommended width tires to use with your wheels please see the product pages on our website. From there you can also choose from a range of our favourite tires to purchase.
I walked home Saturday because of a sealing issue with my front tire, and I’ve NOT gone on more rides due to tubeless issues in the last 3-4 years than flats I’ve fixed on tube setups in the 30+ years prior.
I like tubeless but it has flaws that can certainly put people off. I’m really close to putting tubes back in my gravel bike to remove one hurdle from getting out and riding.
3 Likes
In my experience I say „it depends“ i have two gravel wheelsets: raceface arc25 and berd gvx25. Both 25mm id one hooked and hookless. I ran different tyres on those rims. Maxxis XC tyres and gravel tyres from WTB, Schwalbe and finally Rene Herse. The only tyre that gave me problems was a Schwalbe G-One Bite. This thing was so loose on the rims it didn’t even seal with a compressor. Went straight to the trash as the distributor wouldn’t take it back.
I‘d say a good gauge is
- if the tyre deflates and stays on the bead, it is probably a good match
- if it holds air overnight without sealant and hasn’t lost more than 15psi it is probably a good match
- how hard or easy it is mount a tyre can be used to assess (although supple tyres will mount more easily than more rigid ones, duh)
I run RH Snoqualmie Pass EL on my GRoadbike. Was descending at about 80kph this weekend with a loaded bike and about 34 psi in those 44mm tyres. I‘m 85kg, bike was easily 11-12kg and this setup felt and feels bulletproof. Unfortunately you have to assess from rim & tyre combo to another. But the pointers above are a good gauge imho.
2 Likes
You need to include a timeframe here…because new tires will can often leak air relatively quickly (within a few hours) without sealant to seal fully seal the casing.
2 Likes
Yes, you‘re right. I had several Maxxis tyres holding air over weeks without sealant, even ridden tyres without initially putting sealant in. I‘d say the GP5000 TL would hold air without sealant on my CLX50 for couple of days.
I think this depends more on the tyre and tyre wall then anything else. Might not be a good gauge after all. I’ll edit it out.
The first and so far only version of the GP5000 that complies with the ETRTO tubeless standard is the S TR. So the improved experience with later batches ties directly to the ETRTO standard. And if combining with a rim that also was made since 2020 and complies with the ETRTO standard you’re going to get a pretty consistent fit. Though anecdotally I come across a lot of people who don’t know how to use the centre channel on their rim to help mount a tubeless tyre, so do wonder how many of the people reporting online that they can’t fit a tyre simply don’t know how to do so properly.
7 Likes
I had a guy on a FB group so convinced that his multiple experiences of breaking tyre levers fitting GP5000s to Roval rims was down to compatibility, not technique that he bet me $100 I wouldn’t provide evidence when I suggested you can fit it without tyre levers if you do it correctly.
To his credit, he paid up and donated it to charity when I posted a video of fitting one by hand in 20 seconds 
7 Likes
All tubeless sealants are not equal. Some of them work better than others. Also, sometimes a Dynaplug or similar helps when a puncture is not sealed otherwise.
What about the huge crack in the rear rim? My assumption from the pictures was that this was a rim failure, with the tyre depressurising and then coming off because the rim had lost it’s structural integrity. Must have been a terrifying crash and don’t blame you for not wanting to ride that model of wheel any more!
I don’t think we’ll ever know if the crack was the cause or the result of the crash…i had a similar thought when I saw the picture, but honestly, I’d be kinda surprised if a Zipp wheel catastrophically failed like that.
But it could also have been a smaller failure, thereby causing the crash and then the crack got worse as a result of the crash.
Tire to wheel sealing issue, using orange whatever that I hadn’t had issues with in the past. Actually never had tubeless/sealant save me from a puncture, maybe some microscopic one I never noticed but would have left me flat with a tube but as far as I’m aware no actual punctures. I do carry a plug, co2 etc. I was 3/4 mile from home when I hit pavement again, so wasn’t worth fixing roadside.
I went out knowing it was an issue, and hoped that the rotating wheel would seal it up, but it didn’t. I was just sick of not riding because of dealing with it for the past few weeks. Hence the just switching to tubes would have meant I was riding more.