The vibe mount versions can add around 15mm, so minimal there.
More seem to be around 100mm to 150mm max total travel. The Saris MP1 is around 240mm totally IIRC, which I think is massive overkill.
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I got my linear bearing setup complete. I’ll probably mess around with spring rates but this has around 3-4 inches of for/aft movement.
Video
[Amazon Photos]
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That looks pretty good for a first completion 
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Looks great and so good to reuse some worthwhile material. Hope you have a great time on it.
Hi everyone,
so far I’m sold into buying a rocker plate to enhance saddle comfort.
I’ll use it with a Wahoo Kicker Core and Kickr Climb.
For this configuration, would it be advisable to use a full-size rocker plate or a two piece design (plate for trainer + separate front platform) or does it make no real difference?
Full length is best for Climb use.
Full-Length vs Rear-Only Rocker
Full-Length
1. Best if you plan to use the Wahoo Climb, so the entire bike and trainer system moves in sync when in use.
2. Some people say it’s better with respect to pivots and lean geometry vs Rear-Only designs. While technically correct in some cases, the difference is so small and all the other variables and freedom of a round rubber tire mask the minor differences.
Rear-Only
1. If you do Rear-Only, make a flat front wheel riser, at the same height of the rear deck or slightly higher if you like that feel. The flat riser effectively replicates the ability of the tire to lean like it does on the road. This is better than the common restrictive types of front wheel risers that hold the tire along the sides.
2. I also suggest making a center stand the same height (or even a bit taller) as your rocker. This allows you to mount and dismount easier.
3. You end up with roughly the same material use, but the 3 separate pieces are easier to move and store compared to a full length rocker due to its large size.
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Wow, thanks for the super fast answer 
I was already suspecting that front and back in sync on one platform would be beneficial . . . but in my head that’s only theory.
Practical experience is always a different thing.
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Has anyone used a rocker plate with a smart bike? If so, which one and what are your thoughts?
After one ride on my SB20, I can already tell I need to do something to add some flex / movement.
I haven’t, but we’ve seen every major brand of smart bike (including the SB20) used on a full length rocker plate. So it’s very possible to do, and the people with them seem quite happy on them.
A super simple hack is to lift the bike, install a rigid center support like a 1" x 2" board, and then add squishy foam at the feet. That will create a simple fulcrum and springs for a test if you want.
Or you can jump into DIY or buy a full size rocker. Several rocker makers have confirmed use on a range of smart bikes. I gan get a list you can use to contact depending on your region, if you’d like.
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Thanks for the offer. I’m going to try a hack to start - add foam or something similar under the feet first - and see how that goes from a comfort perspective before jumping into a proper rocker.
From a region perspective, I’m in SF, CA, USA 
The only ones I know of are:
- Rockr Pro
- Axxion
- KOM Cycling rocker plate
- Saris MP1 - but this won’t work given the taper at the front
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Here is the full list I have (thanks for the KOM one, hadn’t seen it, but added it to my list).
I know of one other new option, and not that the KOM one is another rebranded version of the LifeLine Rocker (that is rebranded from the original RideNow model).
Gravi-Trainer: California & Colorado (USA)
LifeLine Rocker Plate: (rebranded RideNow rocker plate) Wiggle (UK), Chain Reaction Cycles (UK), ship to USA
Well it’s taken two years and was mentioned to @mcneese.chad that long ago that I had some plans for a rocker plate. The original experiment was some bed slats glued together, that has been working for an age and with a few weeks off over Christmas I finally got my wood and parts ordered and took the design in a slightly different direction from those seen in this thread.
I wanted the sideways rocking, something I’m use too with the curved bed slats, but also wanted full horizontal movement, independent 360 degrees both at the rear and the front of the rocker plate. I expect to have it finished by next week and will publish my full build for anyone interested. Also to keep costs down I’ve mainly used softwood, though many blocks of hardwood have been used where strength is required. Have also harden up the underside with some steel plating for the castors to run on. No really idea what its going to feel like, but any movement will be better than none!
Left on the to do list is:
- Fit front springs and horizontal metal attachments
- Epoxy clear resin underside to a depth of 1-2mm so level with steel plates
- 4mm Clear blue tinted epoxy top
- Underside threaded bolt attachments to H3 legs and body
- Underside threaded bolt attachments to Sterezo at front
Here are a few pictures of the build so far…
Steel plates fitted to the underside of board, board created using planks biscuit joined.
One of the adjustable mounts for the board
Castors (rated at 60kg per castor) fitted to main rocker frame
Springs fitted to rear, adjustable ones on the front
Curved underside have a leather topping. There are also two spring mounted side bars for some resistance of the rocking.
I’ll put together a more timeline build with some more information and more importantly, what it ends up feeling like!
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Very cool!!! I love new approaches and this one sure links interest. Can’t wait to see it finished and in use.
Wow great diy on these. I bought a Saris Mp1 at the end of March this year and don’t regret the purchase for a second. Yes it was spendy but 20% off at rei helped.
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Hi I am new here, but not new to rocker design.
Those ball transfer units are great for light loads but not so good with a heavy load on top. The attached photo shows the wear from the point load of the Carbon steel balls on mild steel after a few 100km. I used 14 of them on an early prototype model. Same wear occurred at a slower rate on harder stainless steel. I also tried nylon units but the motion was much more restricted.
If you are going to epoxy the base of your deck then make sure you can still remove the steel plates as they will need replacing.
Good luck with the build.
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Hi Martin, thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
What rating was the load per castor ball you used? The ones I’m using are rated for 60kgs per ball, maybe my five will have to be increased to distribute the weight and hopefully I’ll get more than a few hundred kilometers out of the ball/plates. Maybe I’ll have to use different material for the plates. Not too worried about replacing plates, can always overlay, maybe I should go down the marble route! Will have to consult Mohs scale of materials!
Have just finished front spring attachments and leather for front rocker… Will assemble later, make sure all fits before lower epoxy prep/pour.
Case of waiting for various glues to dry now…
I think they was rated at about 30kg each from what I remember, it was over a year ago.
I also tried porcelain ceramic tiles which suffered from cracking.
Looking at the Mohs scale Porcelain can be anywhere from 5 to 9. It would have to be thick to reduce chances of cracking, something that isn’t desirable for setup. Steel is rated around 4-4.5 so it’s probably not the best choice for long term as you’ve advised.
Did order some titanium plates a while back so that may be an option to mount over the “soft” steel, Maybe with some double sided industrial strength carpet tape to make them changeable.
Titanium is rated at 6, tungsten 7.5 and tungsten carbide at 8-9.5, very hard considering diamond is a 10!
Will have a shop around and see what is the best option for price and of course report back how it goes!
I’m wondering about a design that moves the pivot point for side to side rocking motion above the upper plate. This would use linear bearings and two pieces of a metal rod - but bolted to the upper side of the upper plate. There would be a cutout below the rod, and the rod would rest on a stand reaching through the cutout from below. Add some inflateables between the plates and that’s it - a suspended construction that moves the pivot a couple of cm above the “contact patch”.
As the front wheel contact patch would swing from side to side with this design, I guess it would have to be a full length plate with a fork stand.
Did anybody ever try this?