Want to make the full switch to bontrager/trek because I’m a little fan boy, what wheel set is best.
Road, Gravel, MTB?
“Best” is relative so listing some of your goals would help.
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looking for a light mtb race wheel for xc laps
Stock may be limited, so checking with a local dealer may be necessary.
For reference:
- Kovee = XC
- RSL = Best in lineup
- PRO = Next in lineup with a bit more weight and lower cost.
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Check out that comparison first before you buy the bontragers: 2024 XC Bike & Equipment Thread - #594 by tgarson
I had the Line Pro 30s on my Procaliber. They are pretty heavy, but really durable and pretty affordable too.
Trek’s Rapid Drive 108 is a pretty good system and the straight-pull hubs are relatively nice. If you end up with a wheelset that uses this standard, I’d recommend picking up some extra pawls, springs, and their 108-specific grease for when you overhaul the freehub. The springs are insanely tiny and really easy to lose. 
@mcneese.chad is totally right though. The RSL 30s are just about the best XC wheels you can get your hands on. 
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In general, they’re all generally the same unless you’re making a big change. “Elite” and “Pro” are the sweet spot, with “XXX” / “RSL” being excessively priced very very minor improvements - “XXX” and “RSL” are there just to charge someone more (this is true for the most expensive anything in the bike world). “Elite” usually has less cool looking hubs (which you won’t see once you put a disc & cassette on and them mount them on your bike) and slightly heavier spokes than “Pro”.
The Kovee, Line, etc are meant to be banged around less/more. These have a different testing standard (ATSM or ISO https://revolutionbikeshop.com/product_images/uploaded_images/2024-salsa-journeyer-flat-bar-deore-650b-astm-chart.pdf ) applied to them with indicating how much you should be able to punish them. Kovee = probably ATSM 3; Line = probably 4; road probably 1 or 2.
You don’t need infinitely wide rims. For MTB (and gravel), 25mm internal is fine unless you’re running something over a 2.5inch wide tire. For road, 20-24mm internal is all you need - if you’re running wide tires, you might want a wide external rim (the “V” in Trek’s name; ‘37v’). Thinner MTB rims are going to flex more and are popular for rough downhill MTB stuff. Deep road rims are stiffer and sail more in the wind - if you’re running the right width tire (generally around the width of the external rim width).
You don’t need infinitely light wheels. Wheel weight is the same as regular bike weight despite what everyone will say. Rotating weight is a non-factor. (actually, a heavier rim rotating weight will climb every so slightly FASTER than a light one, but the heavier downward gravity pull is a much larger factor )
Don’t bother with 1 million points of engagement. You’d be hard pressed to notice the difference after 20 or so. The higher engagement points in Trek’s lineup are typically a cheaper hub as well (still good hubs). The DT Swiss hub’d wheels are easier to move cassettes/freehubs from wheel set to wheeset, easier to find parts for, and may be quieter. Some people like noiser hubs for MTB as an alert to others on the trail you’re coming.
This. And “Line” is the trail model.
Check the prices and weights closely. The Pro models tend to be a bit heavy. The RSL a bit expensive. Good stuff, just cross-check against Roval, Enve, I9, and maybe one or two of the Chinese-direct brands.
I have Line Pro 30s on my trail bike and they’re good wheels, but nowhere near the lightest 30mm set for the money. I got them as new take-offs from my LBS owner, so paid about half price - wasn’t going to beat that price.
For the price, this will not be beat.
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No…Get a Canyon and be a better person. 
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