I am preparing for the sad fact that my Cinch spindle PM may be dead. Several years of great service, but not transmitting data anymore (waiting to hear back from RF about repair, but not getting my hopes up). In the meantime I am looking at replacements. Only thing I am seeing is the P2M chainring that is compatible with the Turbine crank I have.
While I am willing to swap cranks, the Turbine is about as bulletproof as I can get. And I have a spare crank if I break it, let alone being able to easily get more. And I would think it would be most cost effective vs getting a crank AND power meter.
This is going on my 35+ pound 170mm Enduro which I beat the shit out of, fragile parts need not apply.
I feel you. I’m also on a Cinch, and will only bother with Turbine now. They’re great cranks and I’ll probably move my Cinch PM over to my Status as I’ve been enjoying that bike more lately (and super curious how much more watts I’m putting out on that sled). Give RF a chance though, while they don’t sell them any more I suspect they have inventory for warranty claims.
I’m interested in hearing your experience, whether they actually replace it or not for you. I have three of these things and I have no idea what I’ll do when they finally die. So far, knock-on-wood, I’ve only had one fail (on the MTB during the wet season).
I have a P2M on a RF cinch crank. Works great. Had next Rs, but took the weight penalty (not all that much really) and got turbines after I had to warranty my NEXT R for the second time. The turbines aren’t sexy, but they don’t have problems.
I got one second hand a while back, not knowing it was trash. But it looks like the battery could be replaced if you are careful with it. There is a set screw that holds the internals in place and 4 wires that connect the internals to the sensor. you might be able to replace the battery and put it back in, when the day comes.
I am guessing that is for a carbon crank, not a Turbine.
I love the polished and gouged aluminum look. Gives you an idea of what to expect when you get up close (all the chipped carbon on the frame)
Not what you asked, but I’ve had excellent success using heart rate on my Enduro bike for TSS tracking. Intervals.icu does a good job of getting very close to matching heart rate based TSS to that from my power meter when I run both (and I bet TR does too now with their new algorithm, although I haven’t checked).
I’m sure you have other reasons for wanting power (assuming you do intervals on your Enduro bike, or just enjoy seeing your power data from training and racing runs) but having had power on my big bike in the past, I don’t feel I need it anymore.
One warning is that P2M can be annoying, because of the mix of spider and chainring bolts. I had a hell of time finding the correct sized bolts when I put on a new chainring. I believe P2M sells chainring bolts and chain rings that work perfectly, which would have avoided the fiasco I had.
Finally got around to pulling the crank and looking at it. I think I figured out the problem and got it working again. I think I need to toss my Vector pedal on just to see if the numbers are close enough to be good, or how to calibrate it, but looks to be working again. Makes me happy.
I think the metal ring that protects the sensor came loose (this is on my long travel bike) and eventually rubbed down though the insulation and shorted out the sensors. I cleaned it all up, put on a wrap of electrical tape, and used JB Weld to put the metal ring back on.
That was an option, but I wanted to stay with something that was left only. Fortunately, I think I have this fixed.
Was the use of JB Weld effective in this case? I find its use unreliable, especially if compared with usual welding(of course, JB Weld is easier to do and find but…) Sometimes I think that the MIG welder like Lotos stuff(this) is a must-have thing.