I imagine I’ll need to contact support for some of this, but hopefully people here might know…
1: Has anyone ever had massively different numbers from a Kinetic Inride because they changed computers? I calibrated earlier then did LSCT and it all felt trivial compared to on my previous computer (25bpm HR difference in the final interval).
2: Does anyone know how to force TrainerRoad to use a Speed / Cadence sensor when present? My old computer used it by default, but today I could tell it was using the cadence numbers off the Inride (which are complete garbage). Both were paired properly. From what I’ve read, it’s supposed to prioritise the cadence sensor, but it definitely wasn’t.
3: Is there anywhere (maybe in a hidden config file) that you can see the calibration / spindown figures? I’m interested to see the effect of temperature on calibration over time / check I don’t have an obvious miscalibration.
4: Any particular reason I’d get a significant difference between the speeds coming off the Inride and those coming from the Speed / Cadence sensor? I’ve manually measured the wheel / set it in the settings so it should be accurate.
Here’s my thoughts from using an InRide V3 and a Windows PC.
2: Try unpairing all devices. I then pair my Wahoo Blue SC first, then the Kinetic InRide, and that seems to prioritise the cadence of the Blue SC over the InRide.
3: If I want to see spindown figures, I use the TrainerRoad App (Android), and do the calibration from there which then tells me how many seconds it took.
4: Not sure why you should see a difference in speed. If I look at my Devices page on Windows I can see the InRide picks up increases / decreases in speed faster than my Blue SC does though.
One other thing. I can’t perform a calibration of the InRide using ANT on the PC. I have to have the InRide paired via Bluetooth.
If I do try with ANT it gets up to 18/19 mph but will not get any faster, I then get an error message saying failure.
I use KK inRide 3 w/Road Machine on Android Bluetooth. Mostly it’s good, however I do have issues on occasion.
inRide 3 cadence is usually ~10rpms slow but reads consistently on TR. (Haven’t tried external cad sensor, but I understand TR would recognize it first.)
Sometimes trainer does not appear (paired) and I found removing inRide battery, reinserting upside down 3-5sec,then reinstalling correctly solves this pairing problem. (Yes, it’s a hassle and always pisses me off…)
Also, I might have to calibrate a couple times at start of session. Sometimes trainer-pairing drops out midway through calibration. I can tell this by interruption in spindown, etc. Then it’s on to the “battery routine” mentioned above.
Besides these things, the KK inRide3/Road Machine/Android-Bluetooth/TR combo has been good for me.
Yes I found that. When using ANT and the calibration / spindown fails, the InRide disappears from devices, and a battery flip is needed to get it to show again, hence why I have just stuck to bluetooth now and it seems to be fine.
So glad it’s not just me that’s had the ANT+ calibration failure / battery reset requirement.
Was infuriating before I switched to Bluetooth.
It’s worth noting that the power differences may have come from that. Either that it wasn’t providing a proper calibration on ANT+, or that there’s some sort of difference in the power figures coming from ANT+ / Bluetooth.
I’m not sure if there’s a difference between ANT+ and Bluetooth, but there’s definitely a difference between the InRide Power and Virtual Power, especially as the Watts increase.
The other week I obtained an InRide and switched back to Bluetooth as I found I could not do a spindown using ANT+ but have been meaning to do a comparison between the InRide and Virtual, but just never got round to setting it up on my morning workouts.
Following a spindown, here’s a short effort I did this evening showing my findings and the differences.
PC (Windows)
Connection - Bluetooth
Cadence - Wahoo Blue SC
Power - InRide
Workout - InRide
Annoyingly I just had my inride crash / lose connection mid workout. It was there when I went back to the device screen after I finished (just stuck with the cadence), but it never recovered during the workout itself.
Just needed to do the battery thing five times before I could get the spindown calibration to work. Really not happy with my purchase of this thing.
Takes enough to get me psyched up enough to train, and that goes out the window when I get tech problems like that. No idea if it was accurate in the end, I was just glad I could actually get on with it.
I have the KK Inride “Smart” Trainer too and just now started experiencing calibration and device connection issues. I replaced the battery but still have issues. Is this a thing? What’s the recommended fix? Take out battery and reinstall?
I’ve not seen anything online about it. I’m going to send them a mail and ask if they’re working on a new firmware… because clearly this one isn’t great. Would suggest anyone else having issues does the same.
Any progress on resolving InRide-Android connectivity issues? I just picked up a Road Machine w/ InRIde 3 and cant get through a calibration. Frustrating.
Not experienced this one before, but can you guess where the Wahoo Blue SC dropped out and the Kinetic InRide took over cadence? Quite pathetic really.
In my opinion, the RoadMachine is great. The in-ride is not worth paying extra for but I bought mine on sale directly from KK’s website.
In-ride is basically a Virtual Power device. It takes uses your speed to determine your power much the same way that TR does. The in-ride’s cadence readings are terrible and to get around that you can use a separate cadence sensor. I use a Wahoo Blue SC.
Here is my set up:
Old steel frame Roadbike with 25C tires set to 120 psi (checked before each ride)
I pull out in the knob while turning it in until the roller just touches the tire. From this point I turn the knob in 2.5 turns.
I do a spin down once I have finished my warm up (approximately 10 minutes) to get the most accurate calibration.
From looking at the ride uploaded to Strava (below) I can see where the BLUE SC dropout occurred with a blip in speed and erratic cadence, but when it reconnected the speed resumed but cadence did not.
Odd. I can’t say I have experienced a swap. My comment is driven from info via TR reps that say the app grabs the most accurate type of device when there is more than one available.
Might be that it only picks the “best” device at the launch of the workout, rather than in the middle?
