I think that’s an issue honestly, of far greater importance than this hookless debate…
I wont ride on tubeless tires where I didnt have to use a tire jack, plus 2 levers and a lot of swearing to get a tire on. Doing it by hand, or even close should be an impossibility…
Every new set of tires I get I make sure it sets up like this.
Giant SLR2 + GP5K STR 28mm.
Sitting one bead of the tire in the lowest portion of the rim, I still need a lever for the very last piece. It might go by hand, but it’s very tight.
Sealing, on the other hand, is as easy as an inner tube setup. Just a regular foot pump, no need to remove valve core, nothing. Just pump and it’ll seat nice and easy.
The test protocols used by Giant, Enve etc (as described in the article linked above) do offer some reassurance, and one would have to imagine that simple fear of litigation and reputational damage would compel the big players to be very cautious indeed when it comes to safety. In those cases, especially where a manufacturer lists approved tyres and sizes, I would probably be willing to use hookless on road, provided that I was comfortably inside the stated safety margins for tyre size and pressure.
That said, if I were in the market right now, I might be inclined to go for hooked, as I suspect the UCI report and the media storm following the De Gendt ‘incident’ may lead to further strictures and standards being put in place.
The “if it’s easy to get on it’ll be easy to blow off the rim” is a red herring. If the central channel is nice and deep, that’ll give plenty of slack in the tyre to get it on.
Plus, I think a lot of riders who struggle with tubeless tires don’t know how to take advantage of the channel.
Yea that’s not wrong. A more accurate way is how difficult it is to get the bead to pop up on the shelf of the rim.
My current tires…I had 100 psi in there, and the tire still refused to get out of the center channel. I had to take the off, grease up the lip of the shelf all around the rim fully with sealant, then try again, and it popped on at like 80psi.
I’m completely confident i could cut off my hooks, along with half of the rim wall itself, and be perfectly fine.
There’s a tradeoff though of course. I dont think tubeless is compatible with a roadside tubed flat fix. I’m using a plug or calling an Uber…
Are you the guy duct taping wheels? I use cycling rim tape designed for tubeless. It’s a real struggle fest to mount any tire on the Roval Rapide CLX II front wheel, slightly easier on the rear wheel. Despite that, all I do is spray water to make it easier to mount. Then use a hand pump and spray water if a bead is sticky and staying in the channel. Maybe once every 10 installs I need to use my compressor. And FWIW the roll technique and plenty of water spray can sometimes muscle a tire on without a jack.
Well gorilla tape but yea. On my CX wheels I’ve got a couple layers of gorilla tape, plus inserts. The tires were just way too loose without extra layers.
The GP5000 on my road wheels were perfect out of the gate. Nearly impossible to get on just with the factory rim tape…
Because of the inflexible (won’t stretch) tire bead on GP 5000 and other road tubeless tires. To avoid blow offs. I don’t know about your bag of tricks installing road tubeless, but there are some lesser known ones that really help me.
The only time I’ve not been able to get a tire on without a reasonable amount of hassle, was the first tubeless gp5000 on reynolds rims.
I got one bead of one tire on. After 3 hours, a tire jack, 3 levers, my wife holding a lever for me, baking the tire on the dash of my car in the summer for an hour, and lubing up the tire/rim interface with soapy water, and literally had blisters on both hands. This was just with the factory rim tape.
I gave up and took it to the bike shop to do for $20 while I drank beer at the bar across the street. Best money I ever spent in my life…(took the bike shop 3 hours to finish the job 
).
Except the ability of the tyre to move into the central canal under riding loads is what causes blowoffs.
I beg to differ, blow out is caused when the internal pressure forces the tyre over the top of the rim. For example, if you hit something, the tyre in contact with the obstacle is flattened forcing the air to the top of the tyre, increasing the pressure in that area, forcing the tyre over the rim. If the tyre just fell in to the central channel, it would just deflate but stay in place.
You may beg to differ, but the main failure point is not overpressure from obstacles but a reduced bead tension on the tyre when one bead drops into the bed (e.g. the reverse of what you do when you try and mount the tyre - if it goes on one way, it will come off in the same way). This is why ETRTO hooked wheels also have lips on the shelf. Plenty of discussion on it if you read up the thread.
Yea exactly. Increase in pressure from an impact is utterly insignificant…a few percent.
That’s kind of another ‘check’ for me as well for my tires…it can/should be very very hard to break a bead by hand on a deflated tire.
Are you not talking about different failure modes?
Overpressure - bead can pop over the shelf. Underpressure - bead can fall into central channel? 
Sure. But the debate is which one actually occurs. My money is on loose beads, underinflation, and slipping into the center channel. Burping.
And I CERTAINLY dont buy that a tire will pop off just because of a momentary bump in pressure of a couple psi.
In the context of this thread though… i’m not sure how much hooks will help in the underinflation failure mode?
Hooked or no hooks, an underflation can cause the tyre to fall in to the channel. I thought the deabte was centred around blow outs? Less likely with hooks. As the hookless manufacturers are very specific on max inflation pressures, it’s entirely possible that a large enough hit can/will cause the tyre to blow off the rim.
Put it this way, if the GP5000S TR blows off my hook-less rim. its done me a favor.
Because I am confident I wont be able to remove them myself without cutting them off.
They stretch over time - dont worry 