Yea that’s not wrong. A more accurate way is how difficult it is to get the bead to pop up on the shelf of the rim.
My current tires…I had 100 psi in there, and the tire still refused to get out of the center channel. I had to take the off, grease up the lip of the shelf all around the rim fully with sealant, then try again, and it popped on at like 80psi.
I’m completely confident i could cut off my hooks, along with half of the rim wall itself, and be perfectly fine.
There’s a tradeoff though of course. I dont think tubeless is compatible with a roadside tubed flat fix. I’m using a plug or calling an Uber…
Are you the guy duct taping wheels? I use cycling rim tape designed for tubeless. It’s a real struggle fest to mount any tire on the Roval Rapide CLX II front wheel, slightly easier on the rear wheel. Despite that, all I do is spray water to make it easier to mount. Then use a hand pump and spray water if a bead is sticky and staying in the channel. Maybe once every 10 installs I need to use my compressor. And FWIW the roll technique and plenty of water spray can sometimes muscle a tire on without a jack.
Well gorilla tape but yea. On my CX wheels I’ve got a couple layers of gorilla tape, plus inserts. The tires were just way too loose without extra layers.
The GP5000 on my road wheels were perfect out of the gate. Nearly impossible to get on just with the factory rim tape…
Because of the inflexible (won’t stretch) tire bead on GP 5000 and other road tubeless tires. To avoid blow offs. I don’t know about your bag of tricks installing road tubeless, but there are some lesser known ones that really help me.
The only time I’ve not been able to get a tire on without a reasonable amount of hassle, was the first tubeless gp5000 on reynolds rims.
I got one bead of one tire on. After 3 hours, a tire jack, 3 levers, my wife holding a lever for me, baking the tire on the dash of my car in the summer for an hour, and lubing up the tire/rim interface with soapy water, and literally had blisters on both hands. This was just with the factory rim tape.
I gave up and took it to the bike shop to do for $20 while I drank beer at the bar across the street. Best money I ever spent in my life…(took the bike shop 3 hours to finish the job ).
I beg to differ, blow out is caused when the internal pressure forces the tyre over the top of the rim. For example, if you hit something, the tyre in contact with the obstacle is flattened forcing the air to the top of the tyre, increasing the pressure in that area, forcing the tyre over the rim. If the tyre just fell in to the central channel, it would just deflate but stay in place.
Hooked or no hooks, an underflation can cause the tyre to fall in to the channel. I thought the deabte was centred around blow outs? Less likely with hooks. As the hookless manufacturers are very specific on max inflation pressures, it’s entirely possible that a large enough hit can/will cause the tyre to blow off the rim.
Thought I’d share a couple photos of why I love my hooked rims. These are the Poertner-approved 3T Discus wheels (29mm inner width, 40mm outer, hooked) with 32mm GP5000s. The tires measure around 36mm, make a really nice shape with the rims, handle great in crosswinds and are super comfy at 45-50PSI. They’re fantastic on our terrible roads and handle light gravel just fine too.
I totally agree that hookless can be safe, with the caveat that you need a >5mm (and ideally more) delta between rim ID and tire width. But setups like the 3T wheelset couldn’t reasonably be achieved with hookless rims, and I do think they provide a combo of aero gains and ride quality that is worth chasing.
I’m not questioning your setup…I personally think it’s fine. But…why the statement that the tire should be more than 5mm bigger than internal width with hookless, but you run 3mm? I’m just wondering why you think the hooks make a difference there.
Christ man, reading comprehension. That article that’s been linked to literally 10 times, at least twice in specific response to your failure to understand the basics here. Figure it out.
That looks super comfortable and still within the 105%.
Does Poertner has any connection with 3T? He’s mentioned them a few times in the podcast. He seems to have some insider knowledge but it could be just from their internal testing independently.
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