Generic Replacement Belts for Direct Drive Trainers

So my Saris H3 trainer has been doing fine since I bought it but since it’s been a few years on the same belt I’ve been itching to have a back up on hand for when it starts to finally get to a point when the wear is noticeable or it outright breaks. I’ve been to the Saris website where one can be sourced for $50 with cheap hex keys and a precise little piece of cardboard (or something) for spacing the the tensioner. The rub is that in the customer reviews one of them notes that this is of course over priced and that these belts can be sourced from elsewhere for much cheaper but predictably doesn’t specify. And this follows considering how much the cycling industry sources and up-charges rather than makes themselves. So I was wondering if anyone here has found a source for the belts used in erg trainers and what specs I’d be looking for to get the exact replacement for my Saris H3. In addition, if anybody has found where to get them for any and all makes of erg trainers those too could be posted here. Thanks!

Here are a couple, and I will see if I can find more:

Wahoo Kickr V1, V2, V3 (2014, 2016, 2017):

CycleOps H1, Saris H2:

Saris H3: (Not 100% certain, but I think this might be it, still checking):


Thanks! I figured you had this information and you did not disappoint. I’ll make sure to bookmark this post. Any confirmation that the link you posted for the H3 replacement belt is indeed the correct one?

I was not able to find a separate confirmation.

This was listed as a replacement option on the Saris H3 Facebook group …could check with them to see if it worked

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Not to poo poo saving money, but I think you are underestimating the life span of the belts, and therefore how impactful finding a cheaper belt will be. I had a gen1 Kickr which I sold a little under two years ago - the belt has never even replaced even after 9+ years of use. So unless you think there is something wrong with the current belt, you almost certainly don’t need one. And any savings averaged over the life of the belt is only a couple of dollars per year at best

@AlphaDogCycling My belt is still doing fine on my H3 but I’m one to have spares around, be it tires, tubes and what not. Having a spare belt on hand makes sense to me in that if it should fail I won’t be stuck back on my fluid trainer waiting for the replacement. Peace of mind and all. And this isn’t necessarily about buying a “cheaper” belt so much as it is about buying it for the proper price. As I said when Saris buys them they put in some cheap hex keys and a spacer and up charge it. They don’t make the belts. These belts are used in more than just wheel off trainers so I was hoping to find a good source from which I’m buying only what I need without the needless added cost.

As for whether @mcneese.chad has found the correct belt I’m going to assume it is now since it’s a 37 in. and @Cloudedstorm has linked to 2 different belts and they’re all at the same spec. Thank you for the help!

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The part numbering is universal. P=Poly-V ribbed belt, J=rib size/form, 6=number of ribs, 940=length.
Just google 6PJ940 and pick the one you fancy.

I’m guessing this won’t fit the 2018 kickr core?

Correct. The 2018 and newer ones (including the Core) use a very different belt.

fancy that. googled it and found this on:

Perfect! Thanks to you as well!

V belts are quieter then toothed belts, that was the main change to make it quiet. Now if you actually look at belt differences it might seem like v belts are worse:

But the downsides are not really that important for a trainer and the lowered efficiency doesn’t matter when the trainer is adding resistance. Just in case you wanted overkill from Chad’s simpler/better answer

When my Direto snapped a belt after about 8 months, i just went to my local bearing and belt specialist shop, took the broken belt with me, they got the serial no. Off it, looked up there database and said they could have it there the next day at half the cost of what Elite were going to charge (but without the pulley). I re-used the original pulley, cos the bearing was still fine.