I’m confused by this. The Neo technically does not have a flywheel. Mine does consistently read higher, regardless of speed. The opposite is the case for my KICKR Core, it reads a bit low consistently. Ultimately it’s not a factor with PowerMatch and my Rallys controlling TR.
What are details behind increased flywheel speed driving inaccuracy? I’m not doubting it, I’ve just not ever heard that before.
The big silver disk is the flywheel of the Neo. It is also the rotor of the internal motor that supplies the resistance. I don’t think that high flywheel speed is my problem. I ride in the small ring and the middle of the cassette to keep the speed down. I was told that high flywheel speeds gave the Neo problems with low power outputs since the resistance wa at the very bottom of its range.
@gpl I have the Vector Rally Shimano single side and it always read 5% at 120-150 W to almost 10% at over 250W comparing with Wahoo Kickr Core, both calibrated every time.
Any thoughts?
I’m not GPlama but I’ll chime in 
You are comparing a single side with a double side/ combined reading.
Your leg imbalance is multiplied by 2 in this case.
Also if both sensors have an accuracy of 2% you can technically have a different of 4% between readings just to begin with.
I think power match might be a solution if what is proposed above doesn’t sorte you.
Best luck
I’m not him either but mentioned earlier in this thread the same thing.
I was comparing a left side only to a dual which will never equal the same.
Try this.
1: Make sure you torque the pedals down
2:Reset all angles
3:calibrate
If you want to add another step take out the batteries for a couple minutes and do those 3 steps. Always calibrate before every ride and reset all angles if you change the pedals to a different bike.
Finally it’s also different measuring spots, so any drive train friction will not show on your pedal readings, but will lower the Kickr readings.
It is lower Rally readings.
Wish I had read this BEFORE my ramp test today. My Rally pedals are about 10 watts lower than my Kickr Core.
Before the next ramp test I’ll tighten to spec and see if the difference is lower.
Does this mean the Rally-spindles will be better for XC-pedalbodies than the Vector 3-spindles?
Considering the Vector 3 + RallyXC conversion kit, since the Vector 3 are on sale now.
I am seeing what I think are power-phase drop-outs on the right pedal. It’s interesting in that it does not seem to impact cadence, power or any other data that I can tell. I’m suspecting it’s been there a long time but gone unnoticed as I usually just look at a power screen. I’ve put quite a few rides into the DCAnalyzer and it does not seem to show there nor does it look obvious in m Garmin data after the workout. It seems that JUST the PP drops in and out. I am going to record again at home tomorrow where there is less possible signal interference.
I want to use right rally xc pedal with other spd pedal ( shimano, look, ritchey…) do you know a compatible pedal ( same q-factor, similar stack height and similar height)
Thanks
Pics and specs here
I’ll post some data soon but I went home and did some comparing on my other bike, trainer, computer. What was saw was interesting. I still catch a few Right Power Phase (RPP) dropouts but far fewer than on my hotel set-up. I shot some video of it to send to Garmin. In this case, like all previous cases it does not appear to impact balance, total power or any other data that I can see.
They appear to be working well except for that minor nuance. I’ll report back once I get the data organized and forward it to Garmin.
I’ve noticed a couple dropouts here and there also, interested In seeing what you hear back!
Quick update on my dropouts. I am not really seeing them at all. I am catching an occasional Power Phase (PP) dropout but the overall data looks solid once uploaded and dropped into the DCAnalyzer. With that said I was getting a Low Battery warning for a couple of rides. Garmin says you have 10+ hours left when you see that. In my case, after a couple of rides my left pedal disconnected. I swapped in new batteries and everything is running well (except for occasional PP drop as mentioned). I also found the battery doors are susceptible to stripping. I opened up a Chat with Garmin on the issue when I tried to order new ones (I wanted to confirm the right product #) and they kindly sent me two new doors. At this point all seems well with respect to the PP drops. The few that I see, are not frequent enough for me to worry about, especially with them reporting such good numbers. Below is a link to my most recent ride with new batteries.
Great to hear! I’ve had little issues with mine and am happy with the purchase!
Has anyone used the MTB version of these or converted their road pedals to MTB?
I’ve got a set of the Rally Look pedals and just ordered the XC conversion kit too use them with my MTB, it’s a huge saving over buying a separate power meter for the MTB.
I have used both. The conversion is pretty straight forward, and the video from Garmin outlines it really well. It’s not very difficult at all, but I can’t imagine anyone wanting to go back and forth frequently. It’s more designed as a seasonal change I believe. I converted an old vector 3 set to be my gravel/mtb PM.
I haven’t had a problem besides some dropouts which have been fixed ( for the most part) since the new update. The dropouts haven’t reflected negatively, maybe 3 dropouts on a 2 hour ride. I’ve also banged them a few times really hard on some stumps, ridden them through chunky rock gravel sections that hit every part of the bike. Im happy with my purchase; I’m just under 2,000 miles of use with my rally xc200s.
Agree. I’ve bought the xc100 and have the road conversion kit. Not hard but enough that I wouldn’t want to change more than once a month or preferably twice a year for seasonal riding/racing. Definitely wouldn’t want to do it on a weekly basis