Garmin Rally Power Meter Pedals: Look Road, Shimano Road & MTB

@TimmyR I have been dealing with Garmin UK.
TBH I wish I’d read @GPLama’s reviews more carefully prior to purchase. I’m going to get a Quarq DFour with the refund.

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@bdb Thanks. I was just curious. @GPLama’s review almost prevented me from buying these, however I had an opportunity to buy them at a large discount so I took the chance. I must have watched/read his review along with @dcrainmaker’s and @DesFit’s at least 5 times each. Feeling lucky they are still holding up well.

Hope your Quarq works out perfectly.

Cheers

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New software update for rally pedals!
Not sure what it means but maybe @GPLama can break it down one day for us if there are any significant changes?

Updated mine yesterday. Planning a ride on the trainer today. I’ll try to compare them to my KICKR if I remember. Hopefully they’ve sorted some of the issues that I’ve read about.

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I tried searching what they wanted to update with the firmware, no luck. I have a long ride tomorrow so I’ll try and see if I notice any changes.

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The updates are focused on the Rally XC side of things…that’ll also relate to RS/RK too as they’re all the same. Changelog:

  • Fixed several issues that could result in cadence and power spikes
  • Improved responsiveness when starting and stopping pedaling
  • Improved left/right balance during intermittent pedaling
  • Fixed a condition that caused auto-zero to fail for large temperature changes

I switched my RS200 to XC200 last night and will be out riding for a few hours on them today.

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Anyone find any pedals with similar q factor/stack height to the Rally XC?

Got the left-side sensing ones and planning to move between 2 bikes, so was thinking I’ll have 2 right non-sensing ones and just swap the left one + have a left non-sensing one for rides where I expect rock strikes/don’t care about power. The official Garmins seem pretty expensive to me at $99 for one pedal.

I recently discovered that my Neo1 reported about 15W high at. 250W when compared to both a Power2Max NGEco and Assiomas all running at the same time. The P2M and Assiomas agreed with each other to within a couple of watts while the Neo1 was 15W high.

This is common for high fly wheel speeds. Mine does this and I use assioma duos for power matching to compensate for it.

I’m confused by this. The Neo technically does not have a flywheel. Mine does consistently read higher, regardless of speed. The opposite is the case for my KICKR Core, it reads a bit low consistently. Ultimately it’s not a factor with PowerMatch and my Rallys controlling TR.

What are details behind increased flywheel speed driving inaccuracy? I’m not doubting it, I’ve just not ever heard that before.

The big silver disk is the flywheel of the Neo. It is also the rotor of the internal motor that supplies the resistance. I don’t think that high flywheel speed is my problem. I ride in the small ring and the middle of the cassette to keep the speed down. I was told that high flywheel speeds gave the Neo problems with low power outputs since the resistance wa at the very bottom of its range.

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@GPLama I have the Vector Rally Shimano single side and it always read 5% at 120-150 W to almost 10% at over 250W comparing with Wahoo Kickr Core, both calibrated every time.
Any thoughts?

I’d start with a static weight calibration test on the Rally.

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I’m not GPlama but I’ll chime in :sweat_smile:

You are comparing a single side with a double side/ combined reading.

Your leg imbalance is multiplied by 2 in this case.

Also if both sensors have an accuracy of 2% you can technically have a different of 4% between readings just to begin with.

I think power match might be a solution if what is proposed above doesn’t sorte you.

Best luck

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I’m not him either but mentioned earlier in this thread the same thing.
I was comparing a left side only to a dual which will never equal the same.
Try this.
1: Make sure you torque the pedals down
2:Reset all angles
3:calibrate

If you want to add another step take out the batteries for a couple minutes and do those 3 steps. Always calibrate before every ride and reset all angles if you change the pedals to a different bike.

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Single sided… yes… sorry, I skipped that detail others picked up on.

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Finally it’s also different measuring spots, so any drive train friction will not show on your pedal readings, but will lower the Kickr readings.

It is lower Rally readings.

Wish I had read this BEFORE my ramp test today. My Rally pedals are about 10 watts lower than my Kickr Core.
Before the next ramp test I’ll tighten to spec and see if the difference is lower.

Does this mean the Rally-spindles will be better for XC-pedalbodies than the Vector 3-spindles?
Considering the Vector 3 + RallyXC conversion kit, since the Vector 3 are on sale now.