Classified gear hub

Is anyone riding a classified gear hub on their gravel bike or is considering it? If so, could you share your thoughts on the new 11-40t casette from classified? I know this is marketed for MTB but to me this seems more appropriate on a GRoadbike.

My Gravel frame and most frames I just looked up max out at 44t for a single ring. With the 0.68 ratio you essentially have a 44,30 with 11-XX casette giving you thighter steps and a climbing gear close to or greater than 1:1 with the traditional road casettes. On my bike I have the SRAM XPLR drivetrain with a 42t chainring giving me a faster gear with the 10t cog and a lower gear with the 44t cog (compared to their road casettes).

Now enter the classified MTB 11-40t casette. To me this seems more road/gravel/bikepacking oriented as closer spacing is not really that important on a MTB imho. Pair this casette with a 52t frontring and the 11-40 casette and you have a really fast road bike with a 0.875 granny gear. Apart from bigger steps in the spacing this casettes should have been available from the start imho as it makes far more sense for the classified system than the current offerings.

The big problem to me seems to be that not many gravel frames can use such a big frontring and with a 44t up front and all this proprietary tech in the back not giving you more than closer spacing compared to XPLR I don’t know what to make of this system.

What are your thoughts and why did you go or didn’t go for the classified hub?

I didn’t think to make a screen shot when I saw 11-31, and when I checked later it was gone… probably a typo while they were releasing the new stuff

@jn92 I’m going to use it for gravel, but one of the appeals was to have a tight cassette with a 1x so I think I’d rather play with chainrings than larger cassette… a 30-34 is easier than a 42-44 2.00 vs 2.06… i understand your point, but if you think about it I understand their way of offering a tighter cassette as one of the biggest complain of 1x is spacing in the back…
For me my biggest worry is the additional drag and its real value, as let’s say it’s 5% at 300W is a lot relating it to when I’m doing an interval…

I really like the cassette … for a road bike. I mocked up a 10–40 cassette based on those ratios, and I think that’d be an amazing option for a wider range cassette that sits squarely between the 10–36 and 10–44 cassettes.

A friend of mine did actually screenshoot it

12-31 and not 11-31 as I remembered
12-34/36 would be wonderful… letting me run a bigger front rings

@OreoCookie I’m already worried about any friction loss involved or due to the internal geared hub… don’t tell about a 10t… joking aside I understand the usefulness of such cassette… hopefully swapping cassettes is as easy as a normal one

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A summary of the Powershift hub efficiency data can be found here, and, for the full scientific white paper, click here.

From https://cyclingindustry.news/classified-power-hub-efficiency-data-released-we-pause-for-a-hambini-response/

I’m not in the market for this, so no need to respond. Just figured I’d post it for others discussing its efficiency.
Enjoy.

Having it on my gravel bike since July, I can say it’s great and I’m super happy with it
Clearly the missing integration with Sram/Shimano/Campa is a big *, but as you get used to it and it’s not something it’d be stopping me to recommend it to others…
I haven’t had any chain drops so far even on chunky alpine gravel and I can’t tell any additional drag or efficiency loss, but honestly as long as there is an independent third party testing it I’d take their white paper with a grain of salt, even though I applaude them for being more transparent and willing to answer what people are asking since forever

For those using a 2-button setup (like the one I’ve set up above): They will be releasing an update to the app to allow to change the mappings on the fly.

I’ve also suggested them that they should offer the option to ā€œsetā€ (rather than toggle) the gear with a single button setup, e.g. short/long or single/double press to set normal or reduction gear.

There is some garmin integration (you can see the battery levels, but not at the same time as shimano), which I believe is going to be improved too.

My only gripe is that you need a very small torx key to change the handlebar unit battery, which is too small for all the multi tools I’ve seen. I found out I had no battery just before the rift (at the starting point), and had to ride everything in normal gear.

One would also hope that the app (iphone, or some connect iq field) would allow changing the gear without the handlebar unit.

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The ANT+ device it pairs as needs to be a LOT better. As you’ve pointed out, it can’t be used/paired to if you already have Di2. Thankfully the bike I have this on doesn’t… yet… When it does work (and doesn’t drop out) I’ll get battery level of the switch and rear axle, but won’t show which gear it’s in. Their 52(?) page manual glosses over this.

IMO they should have kept away from being an ANT+ Shifter and done their own thing for head unit integration. Ideally integration to work with D-Fly button assignment would be neat.

I’ll need a week or two to cool-off after installing the Powershift and having major issues with reliability, a messy multi-firmware update process, and being stuck in 0.7 gear on a ride where I had to stop and re-pair the axle. It all seems to be working fine with a new button battery in the bars and their latest firmware… but my initial impressions contained a lot of four letter words.

The end goal is to test their efficiency claims. If it’s 99%, it’ll be difficult to measure with standard equipment. If it’s 96%-97% like a lot of people are claiming, it’ll be possible to measure with the equipment I have. In 0.7 I can feel the difference in how smooth it feels. In 0.7 it feels like riding with a worn chain.

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That would be awesome, yes.

My friend has 2 of them, seems like a lot of growing pains, but he overall likes it when it works right.

What kind of problems is he facing?

Not shifting right.

They sent a new hub and wheel to fix the issue.

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No issues for me. I’ve actually found a ā€œnewā€ use case riding down hard the 21 bends - I basically only use that shift, as depending on the speed at which I get out of a bend, I can immediately ā€œdrop a few gearsā€ to start the sprint out of the bend, then shift back as soon as I get high revs.

The new (upcoming) release of the app actually seems to implement some of the stuff (inverting buttons, using the dual setup as ā€œtoggleā€ for redundancy) I suggested to them - not sure if because of those suggestions or not, but it’s nice to see the app being actively worked on. Not sure if that release will have the option to change the gear from a phone (or connectIQ field), but I hope they implement that too, a depleted handlebar module battery mid-ride pretty much guarantees no more shifting (since the screws are too small for all the multi-tools I’ve seen. I end up carrying a mini screwdriver (lost the one they provide) on my saddle pack)

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Any idea how to find out more about this one? I noticed they released a new version for iOS (1.3.8 to 2.5.9) but can’t find any information online if there are options to make use of this. I don’t have a Classified system yet to test, but it will be part of a new build in a few weeks and was wondering if I could ask the shop to get onto this :sweat_smile:

Thanks a lot, loved following this thread :star_struck:

Here you go:

Seems to work as advertised.

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FYI, My shop didn’t know about how to set dual button. But as you can see from my post above it’s fairly trivial once you get the stereo to mono splitter.

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ah thanks so much! that’s super helpful :clap:

I will speak to them and see if they’re up for a side challenge :sweat_smile:

but as you said, otherwise easy enough to approach as an upgrade at home

DI2 integration was released: Shimano Di2 – Classified Cycling

I’ve set it up this morning, seems to work fine. Haven’t tested on the road yet.