One thing I can’t get my head round is cadence. It seems lower than I’m pushing (in comparison to WattBike) I can half / double my Pedal speed and it doesn’t make much difference to what is displayed on screen. It seems if the workout wants me too it will adjust the trainer to get me to a desired cadence - e.g 125 and At upper levels when it wants to it matches what I’m used to.
However if I change between 60 / 70 / 80 / 90 it doesn’t register or does with significant delay - 30 secs to a minute.
With watts their is target vs actual. With cadence there is just one reading.
My only comparison is a watt bike I used to use in the gym Pre lockdown. Usually a mountain biker that hasn’t put too much thought into data / advanced training pre lockdown.
I’m using a TacX T2240 with a a 26’’ hard tail MTB with a conti turbo trainer tyre on rear and have calibrated. Everything appears good apart from cadence.
Use a dedicated cadence sensor. Your issue is not related to erg mode, that has no bearing on the cadence measurement/display. TR does not display a cadence target, since in most workouts the target is a range, and many of the cadence-related drills are optional and use a relative target (as in “3-5 rpm above your natural cadence”).
The Wahoo Cadence sensor works fine for me - you can attach it to your shoe and leave it there, and it’s ANT+/BT bilingual.
I have a Tacx Flux with a built-in cadence thingy, the first thing I did after a week of usage was to get a dedicated sensor, the output from the trainer was all over the place. It’s cheap, it works. You can even use it on a plain old spinning bike, as long as you clip it to one shoe…
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