Two issues:
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UCI banned the bars and companies are reluctant to invest in UCI- illegal products (even though it doesn’t impact the general consumer)
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Drops are all but unusable with those bars.
Two issues:
UCI banned the bars and companies are reluctant to invest in UCI- illegal products (even though it doesn’t impact the general consumer)
Drops are all but unusable with those bars.
Start training it now. You’ll get there with enough practice.
Those are interesting. At 1500 euro you could invest in some coaching which may or may not be a better investment. That’s what I would do anyway.
Here’s an interesting article about a tall and fast rider…Jonas Rutsch. Maybe @anthonylane should try a 170 mm stem
I could totally ride a 170mm. I wonder why he doesn’t ride the 60cm frame. Also notice his drop isn’t as dramatic as I would have assumed for a 6’5” guy on a 58cm frame.
Also….I’ve been playing around with saddle height and have gone from 84cm to 85.5cm measured from the center of the BB shell to the top of the saddle (following the seat tube angle). My inseam measured with bare feet is 95.5cm.
I’m 193cm tall (76”) but my legs account for 95.5cm (37”) of that height. Long legs, shorter torso, long arms. Perhaps this impacts my ability to achieve a flat back angle. I do find that I close my hip angle well before my back is parallel with the ground
I was suprised about the 58 cm frame too but he must be doing something right if he finished 11th at Roubaix!
Do you feel like your fit is dialed or still a bit of a work in progress? I love following along with the stuff so play with my fit a little too. At 6’5" I feel like a barn door in the wind but there must be hope!
Very true. I also noticed that we share the same birthday!
I think it’s as good as I can get it on this frame, but I’m certainly not aero. I really have to try to get aero and I find it a more difficult position to sustain. Seeing as this is a quirky all road frameset with a higher head tube and shorter seat tube, I’m guessing that it yields a more relaxed position.
I’m curious about the impact the geo of a frame has on a riders ability to get aero versus the riders physiology, flexibility, etc. If I was put on a 60cm Tarmac would I all of a sudden be able to get flatter and lower? Who knows, anyone have thoughts on that?
Not sure I have all the right frames, but roll down to the Geometry section.
Geometry is Geometry, I don’t think a new bike automatically will provide you a better position unless you are already maxed out on slammed stem etc, which by memory you still had spacers though had gone for a mega long stem for the to account for the bike being a size small?
You’d probably be able to adapt to a more aero position. Again assuming stack height is the limiter.
I think if you’d bought an SL7 or equivalent as your first bike you’d probably have assumed and adapted to a more aero position at your cycling infancy.
I went from endurance Trek Domane to SL7 and definitely got more aero. Need to lose another 10 lbs before I can ride a long time in the drops. Yesterday I rode about 10 miles into a 14mph head/cross wind, and the wind dropped quickly down to 6mph by the time looping back. So not much of a tailwind on the return. Did this on a 20 mile private Strava segment and was both happy and frustrated to see average power of 230W required to ride an average of 20.5mph. But that’s better than the power required on my Domane. That 20mph at 200W target you mentioned upthread is still a dream!
I’m running a -17ª and 140mm stem and have around 3cm of spacers. This equates to around 10cm of saddle to bar drop, which isn’t extreme at all. Even at 13cm of bar drop I don’t think I would feel uncomfortable. Time to test it and see.
Well, since you have a large stack of spacers already, have you tried dropping the bars? That will obviously increase saddle to bar drop distance, but also increase saddle to bar reach incrementally.
I guess I’d ignore looking at different bikes until you explore the full range of your current setup, to know what feels better/worse and any direction you may want to head… which should help in reviewing geo options.
Cool link, so i was curious about my position as well since my bike is a roubaix. Since i ride on gravel a lot i use 30c tires usually only inflated at 40 psi, so that will affect my speed as well but i noticed about 6cm of stack difference between the roubaix and tarmac for a 52cm bike.
When i matched it to the sizes of Anthony 's bikes, the roubaix had the tallest of the four.
@anthonylane the dream is still alive and I think of this thread…
A couple weeks ago put my mid aero wheels back on the SL7, with S-Works RapidAir 30c tires. Not aero optimized, need 26c tires for that, but these have low rolling resistance and more resistant to flats (post-ride I’m pulling out thorns a couple times a week).
Yesterday had simple 2 hour endurance ride, and was blessed with light winds (5mph) on flat roads on a warm 80F evening:
So close yet so far! The 1-2 mile segments into a light headwind were 19mph @ 200W. Spent a lot of time trying different aero positions to tease out small 0.3 to 0.5mph gains.
Those extra 5w AP might have gotten you there…
Easy solution - Pedal Harder.
next time I’ll wear my aero socks!
Atta boy…work smarter, not harder!!
I’m still in the same boat. Same bike. Same position. Less fitness😭
Hope “Springs” eternal and fitness will rebound
Sorry I know it’s an old thread, but I wanted to add another data point for larger riders aiming to get faster. I managed a 20 mph average (20.1 per TR/Garmin ) over 63 miles/100km solo yesterday for the first time!! This was along the line of @anthonylane 's goal in the OP so I wanted to share.
I’m 6’5"/195 cm and 230 lbs/104 kg with FTP of 320. This gets me just over 3.0 w/kg which I think is roughly the middle of the bell curve for male cyclists in their 40s (IIRC from an old thread here).
Kit includes:
I averaged 237W with NP 254W for IF 0.79. To my fellow bigger riders…there’s hope .