ok thanks!
This is all new to me so please keep that in mind when considering my response.
I don’t appear to have any issues with cycling dynamics recorded from my Garmin Forerunner 945 based on just my “Power Phase: End” chart from the Garmin Connect browser view.
Since I have a set of Winwood platform adapters that I bought some time ago, I thought I’d try them out. Short answer - I wouldn’t use them. At least not on the Xpedo Baldwins. The ‘pontoons’ (hard plastic) on the bottom of the platform don’t allow for release from the pedal because a pontoon contacts the Favero Assioma pod in attempting to release the platform from the pedal using a sideways rotation. At least with Shimano SM-SH51 cleats. The only way that I was able to remove the platform from the pedal was by prying the forward cleat retainer away from the cleat. The platform would also have to be clearanced for the Favero Assioma pod as it’s just touching the pod.
I originally never provided a top view of the Favero Assiomas mounted in the Xpedo Baldwins so here it is:
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Hi!
This thread has been very useful in helping me getting a power meter with my SPD pedal. Thank you so much! I’m on a fixed gear with basic rollers, so I really want to get a power meter since I’m guessing TR’s VirtualPower won’t be as accurate with fixed gear as those on geared bikes.
So I thought I’ll add to the data. I used the following:
- M-Force 8 CR from R2-bike (not Ti, since I won’t be using the spindle anyway)
- Favero Assioma Duo from bike-components.de
I followed GPLama’s instruction and everything works perfectly even though he uses an M-Force 4. The pedal he’s using isn’t available anymore on XPEDO’s website and the ones that are still in stock might be a risky purchase since you need the M-force 4 with the tapered spindle. So yeah, the M-Force 8 works just as well as a substitute
I’m using the Shimano RX8 (size 41) shoes and it clears the pods with a nice gap, no need to shave the sole. However, it could be because my cleats are positioned to the inside of my foot (?) I can see being a bit problematic if your cleats are on the outside, or if you have a wider foot.
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I’ve had them on my xc bike for six months and have become less and less careful. Struck the pm side more sides than I would like to admit and they are still flawless. Plenty of chunky terrain too.
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@madmaximummodulus, you beautiful son of a gun! Thank you so much for pioneering this mod!
I just swapped Xpedo M-force 4 Ti bodies (my pair came on gold spindles) onto my Assioma Duos and it worked like a charm!
Removed the pressed off inner end plate/seal from the Xpedos, moved it over to the Assiomas, and reassembled. One of the few times a mod like this goes off with zero drama, in my experience.
Shimano RX8 (wides no less!) in size 42 fit with no trimming required. Happy days - looking forward to hitting the road/trails/whatever with this super go-anywhere setup!
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Shame. Does the left spindle act as a master component and the right is a secondary?
Furthermore, I’ve found that you can buy a spare left spindle (and magnetic charging clip) for about £100 less than a complete pair of UNO pedals. Does anyone know of any issue with doing it this way, in terms of activation/setting up/required axle parts? I’m thinking of going with CXRs.
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I don’t see an issue with your plan to just buy the left spindle 
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Has anyone tried this conversion with the M-Force 3 pedals?
From the user manual: “Bike computers require that only the left pedal be paired. The left pedal will transmit also the data collected by the associated right pedal.”
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It won’t work AFAIK, the M Force 3 uses a different bearing set-up to the 4, 8 and CXR/Baldwin.
Thx for getting back to me!! I was able to score some M-Force 8 (chromoly) on ebay for about 75 bucks. Gonna go with those
Have Specialized Diverge. Has anyone tried conversion with Xpedo TRVS duo( 3 sealed cartridge) spindel looks similar
Just curious if you have put some miles on the Baldwins? I am trying this today, as the Mforce was just not cutting it for me. The clipping in/out was just not worth it, so ordered these Baldwins and giving them a shot as a last ditch effort.
I also had the same issue, where I could not bind the nut down and tighten, etc. But I backed it off, and used blue Loctite as well to hopefully keep the nut in place.
Just wondering if this method (the Loctite bond) has held the test of time and stress for you?
I didn’t start using the Favero Assioma/Xpedo Baldwin pedals until 7/31/20 but since that time have ridden just under 700 miles on them. So far no issues. Primarily road riding on an ATB with an occasional very short ‘trail’ included that does have roots & a few stumps but I’ve managed to avoid impacting any of them with the pedals. So far. I’ve had closer calls with curbs though. Not paying attention or skirting them just a bit too close. Living dangerously.
As far as your hope that the Baldwins will be be an improvement over the Mforce clipping out … I don’t think so. I learned to ride clipless on Shimano SPD pedals back in the early 90’s & aside from two brief & failed attempts with Speedplays & Time ATAC pedals have been riding some form of Shimano clipless pedal ever since. Xpedo pedals are definitely not in the same class in terms of release. Even now, after backing off the tension release from the middle setting by one click, I still have trouble unclipping from the Baldwins. I’m getting better at it & I’ll probably back off the tension one more click but unclipping is definitely not as ‘intuitive’ as Shimano pedals. It’s something I’m willing to live with though.
I used red loctite rather than blue to secure the pedal axle nut & so far haven’t had any issues with the nut loosening. If I had gone to the trouble of making sure that all the threads were spotless - no contaminants such as grease, dirt, etc - I would’ve used blue. But since I didn’t bother I used red instead for extra security. I tightened the nuts enough that the pedals will spin but not freely. ~2 revolutions for the right & ~1 revolution for the left. Thought about freeing them up a bit & actually removed the left pedal axle nut (which hadn’t budged) to do so but then decided against it. Added security? I’m hoping they’ll eventually wear in. And I don’t mind the slight extra resistance & can’t even feel it while actually riding the pedals.
Thanks for the quick response .
So I followed similar to you, I used the Assioma end cap and just tightened, then backed off till they spinned ok. I used blue Loctite (not red), gave it 24 hours and just tested.
I am not sure if you ever tried the Mforce pedals, but these Baldwins are 20x better at clipping out of compared to those (or maybe I had a defective pair?). I agree the Baldwins are not amazingly smooth on the clip in/out, not as good as the Shimano XTRs, but at least I can now get my foot out within a split second. It’s just different, more finicky in the way you get them out, where Shimano just works.
Using the Mforce my cleat would get stuck, and its caused me to eat it a few times. As well, the Baldwins provide a far superior shoe support with the larger base. Out of the saddle on the mforce was so sketch, feet had no stability. My only regret is on one of shoes I had trimmed the rubber down some to make the Mforce work, and that gives me a little less base on the Baldwins. I can tell the difference between that and the other shoe where I didn’t do that.
So my 2 cents, go with the Baldwins if you do this hack. Better body weight support, smother clip in/out, and most likely no need to hack the shoes.
Well, I bought SRAM AXS Wide and found out the hard way that I can only use pedal or hub based power meters with it. So…against my fear of voiding an expensive warranty, I’m looking at doing the hack.
My CXR pedals just arrived and contrary to the pedals that didn’t work out in previous post, they’re ridiculously easy to clip in and out of. Much easier in both directions than the M8020 that I usually use. So, that part is all good for me.
Now…I have really expensive S-Works Recon shoes and size 49 feet, so I’m really worried about having to cut them or them not working with the Assioma spindle. Can anyone who’s done this give me their thoughts on clearance and if I should order the Assiomas? Thanks in advance for your advice!!
Update. Went out for 4+ hours of gravel on them yesterday. Easy clip in and out. Did notice a bit of a hot spot appearing after some extended periods out of the saddle, but I’m sure that just the platform size, not specific to the pedal itself.
Really tired of guesstimating TSS based on heart rate. Would appreciate any feedback on how you think these shoes will fit with the Assioma unit.
I think you might have to trim a little off the edge of the sole, but not a huge chunk. You might even be ok while riding and will only need to trim the shoe to clip out.
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Thanks! That’s encouraging. Guess I’d better order a dremel too.