This and the same with the Trek Boone.
I’m hoping the CX team does well so they can keep making them. As of now I just see frames on there website which makes me think either a new Boone is coming or they will move away from CX.
I was disappointed when the Crockett went away.
Yep! The ‘new’ Boone on their website is just a new color option. They haven’t offered a complete bike in the Boone or Crockett for a little while now, which is worrying. I’m still on my 2018 Crockett. If they release a truly new Boone I would be very tempted to upgrade. The Lions appear to be riding last year’s bikes at the moment.
Today was the last race in a four week block of racing every weekend and the legs are feeling it.
How I’m looking forward to this recovery week.
Then just four more races until I can call it a season.
Hey what gearing do you guys run on your CX bike?
My Crux has and older Sram 1x groupset with 40T 32/11. This seem to work for me but on one of my last races with some climbing I felt like I was grinding up the climbs.
I have an 36/11 that I use when riding that bike on the road. Gave that a try on a CX race and it felt off, may have been in my head, don’t know.
I’ve also got old Sram 11spd 1x. I’ve run everything from 11-32 to 10-42 (w/40t chainring) . I find the 11-36 is the sweet spot for the type or courses I do. I rarely need it, but If there’s any sustained climbing the 36 allows some easy spinning. If you need lower gearing than that it’s probably faster to run. If you want smoother jumps in the middle range and don’t need the 36, try a Shimano 11-34.
currently SRAM 12spd 1x. 40t chainring and 10-36 cassette.
Previously i also used a 38t chainring and 10-33 cassette.
I have both 10/33 and 10/36 cassettes. I don’t find I need the 36 sprocket much in Chicago. Depends on your terrain.
I’m running a 40 up front, 10-42 rear. The 10-42 is the Sram 1195 and is super light, so I just left it on when I bought my crux a few weeks ago. This gearing was nice as we had quite the steep punches, short and long this past weekend. I did run a few spots that I could have stayed on, but it was a hair faster.
I had another second to last row callup and managed 8th. Pleased, but also a bit disappointed as the usual hitters in my field weren’t there and I didn’t capitalize on it. But, that’s the beauty of cross. It was a fairly technical course with barriers going up a long hill, off camber descents and tight up hill turns. I really liked it but just didn’t have the punch on the flats to make up ground. Gotta start sprinkling in more 30/30s.
Same! but Xplr 12spd 1x 40t chainring and 10-36 cassette.
Did my first ever cross race last weekend. A lot of fun but the cleanup afterwards is horrific! I was on a gravel bike with 2x11 di2 gearing and after 1 lap the front derailleur wouldn’t move. I’m from a MTB background so sliding around in the mud feels quite natural.
I am going to do the remainder of the series now. I had intended on just running my gravel tyres but after a practice lap on Sunday I realised they were useless in the slop. Managed to borrow a front wheel with a 33mm CX tyre but had to run a 38mm WTB Riddler in the rear. Spun out in a few places when trying to put down power and slid out in a couple of corners. CX tyres have been ordered!
Thanks for the feedback, I’ll keep testing the 36/11 chainring.
I only lose the 14 tooth when compared to the 32/11 but I prefer not to be grinding up hills in these CX races.
The gravel tires may not be too bad in the dry. But yea, going to be pretty rough in the slop.
Welcome to the suck!
Been racing cross for a long time. Tubular Baby Limus (33mm) (26/24psi) are my go to but I’m experimenting this weekend on a dry course using my gravel tires Schwalbe g-one RS 35mm pro.
Less rolling resistance and less grip. No idea what PSI to use.
Wow! I am interested in knowing how the cornering grip of the RS will be on the front. You’ll have to lean into the side knobs. Should be a fast tire though in a straight line. Let us know how it goes.
I’m thinking I should double up on my race day with hopes of getting a better call up. But also to maximize the drive to the race. Sitting 6th row last few races has made for an interesting first lap and a half. I can usually get through most of the field in the first lap, or at least with the top 10. But I’m burning a match or two to do so, being very aggressive through turns etc. I could do the 40+ open race 90 mins later in the day and just finish in hopes of getting me a better spot as we get into November races.
Just do the math to figure it out. I did Single Speed a few times last year where a mid pack finish in my second race got me much better points than a top 15 finish in 55+.
Looking for comments:
Got an upcoming CX race on a dry grass & hardpack dirt course. Thinking about swapping out my 33mm Baby Limus tubular wheelset or my 35mm Schwalbe RS Pro gravel tubeless wheelset
Why? Because lower rolling resistance..
Good or Bad idea?
Cheers
Is the grass deep? How much grass vs hardpack dirt? Are there off camber turns on grass?
low dead grass, hard packed ground, not much off-camber.