Cadence drills are optional but are incorporated in the workout texts for some workouts, you can search the workouts section (https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/workouts) for “Cadence” or “ILT” (= isolated leg training). There has been quite a lot of debate whether changing your cadence is a thing you would want to do though, I think it leans more towards just using your natural selected cadence.
And what would you want to use the webcam for? Only thing I can think of is for a better bike fit and analysing your knee tracking or ankle flexion?
Natural cadence can change: my self-selected cadence has been ~75rpm. Over 12 week base training, workouts’ cadence drills have driven it toward 85-95rpm and now my natural cadence falls into 95-97rpm range if i don’t think about it.
But to be honest, haven’t tried it yet outside during full-day rides.
Is the webcam for fitting purposes, or other reasons? If fitting, try to position is as far away as possible to minimize perspective distortions. That is, angles are easier to discern from, say, 15 feet away rather than 2.
I mean, it doesn’t have to be 15 feet. Just, the further away you get the better if you want to be garnering specific info about angles. The further away you get, the less things look warped. Of course, you also get diminishing returns, which is beneficial here. 6ft is better than 4 which is better than 3.
No, not mine. It’s from an F-Stoppers tutorial regarding lens focal length vs compression. At the risk of diverging too much, there’s misunderstanding common in the photography community regarding what, specifically, causes lens compression / removes that ‘warped’ look. The short version is that it’s distance, not the lens itself (but you need a longer lens the further back you get.) That gif is a series of still photographs from a dSLR. I’m not really up to date with webcams.
For a cheap solution, if you don’t need real time monitoring, you could always buy a phone tabletop tripod. I record myself all the time with my phone. Old fit, but this is just my cell phone propped up and recording. No live info though, so if your goal is adjusting in real time, doesn’t help.
This should be easy to fulfill, since that is only about 2-3 pictures per second. And any cheap camera should be able to provide that. But honestly, watching a video with 2 frames per seconds of your legs moving will make you sick. You need something in the range of 30 frames/seconds or more.
I would simply use a video camera / camcorder that you can directly attach to a TV. One that has a HDMI out port with a live video stream. This makes the setup a lot easier and reduces any delay introduced by additional computer processing.
Sure - that camera is able to do 3600 images per minute (in 720p) - thats a lot more than the requested 150 images / minute in your initial post.
But you always need a running computer to use that webcam - you can not attach it directly to a TV. My suggestion was to use a camera with HDMI out that can be directly attached to a TV without a computer. But that was only a suggestion to keep things simple.
I’d skip a webcam and buy a cheap camcorder (USD$150-200). Any camcorder with HDMI-out will plug it in directly to any modern TV. You can use a really long cable and it’ll still work fine.
Avoid a webcam. Most webcams connect with USB, which would require you to plug it in to a computer, then plug the computer in to your TV, which would be a pain in the ass and rarely works without software and hardware antics. Heck even the one installed inside my MacBook Pro fails 50% of the time when I do conference calls.