Quick sanity check, I recently bought a zwift cog and click, installed it Sunday and then completed my scheduled workout (vincent) which seemed a harder than it should have been, but it was on the back of doing Cloudripper on the Saturday (original set-up), so figured just fatigue although heart rate was higher than I would have expected at those power numbers.
I had Antelope scheduled for yesterday which I completed the first interval but heart rate again higher than I’d expect and legs just didnt want to know, so I bailed.
Has anyone else fitted one and found things just werent the same ie Power v RPE v heart rate? It could be I’m just having a bad week, or not recovered from Cloudripper as I did find that hard and took a few seconds pause at the back of the last O/U section.
Hi, have installed Zwift Cog and Click on two trainers (Zwift Hub and Wahoo Kickr Core v1) and haven’t noticed any change in workouts whatsoever, FWIW.
same trainer, same bike. A bit of AI research suggested possible comunication lag as I’m running on apple tv so having to pair through the companion app, so you’ve got a constant battle of maintaining watss but seems stable. The other suggestion was the difference in flywheel momentum, potentially turning a larger gear v the cog being effectively a single speed, so just feeling different, which I guess it could be.
I’ll fit my power meter to the trainer bike and dual record, would have done it sooner but its a bit of hassle as they’re different crank lengths so means swapping the whole crankset, but at least I’ll know if I’m just being a wuss
I believe so, chain alignment looks good, I know people comment it’s much quieter than a cassette but didnt notice much reduction in volume tbh, despite fine tuning with the adjustment on the cog and derailleur tension
I recently switched to a cog a click and it IS quieter than the cassette for me, just not massively quieter like I was hoping for. It’s quieter than the Lasko fan though, which the cassette wasn’t.
I would suspect this - what gear ratio did you use for erg mode work when you had the cassette on and how does this compare to the cog? I suppose you could experiment by swapping chainrings up front and seeing if that makes a difference (better or worse) - assuming you’re not on a 1x
I have experienced this before - much worse on my old wheel on trainer where using a small chainring/large gear on the cassette would mean you were constantly accelerating the flywheel vs a large chainring/small cog combination means it keep spinning at higher speed - like holding the same power on the flat vs a 15% gradient, and it made workouts in the low gear infinitely harder
It’s much better now I have an H3 but still noticeable. It’s probably arguable that it’s a weakness of erg mode and something you should mix up to train your body for different terrain, but it definitely could be a cause for this IMO
If you wanted to be sure it’s the flywheel inertia, then put the cassette back on and do workouts in the same gear you previously did, confirm that RPE is now back to normal. Then shift to the 14t cog (or whatever is closest) and see if RPE now goes up for the same power. If it does, it’s the gearing/speed, if it doesn’t, then maybe it’s poor alignment to the cog and it’s friction related.
