Trek Checkpoint power meter options

Have you tried a SRAM XD 10-42 with that derailleur? Been wanting to see if it’ll work. My guess is that it will…

I had a Checkpoint and a Quarq (as always) worked great. You can find them used all day long for <$500.

I am running a 2015 Trek Boone with 50/34 and an XT 11-40, with and XT M8000 RD (along with the required Wolftooth Tanpan leverage adapter). I wanted the wide range and a clutched RD. This was before the new RX800 Ultegra clutched RD was available.

If I were to do it again today, I would simply get that RX800 and skip the MTB RD and adapter for the sake of simplicity. That road RD will handle the increased range fine.

I’m just using xt 11-40 as no sram xd free hub on my wheels.
When the new wheels come (which have the option for xd hub) I might give it a shot and transfer 10-42 off mountain bike to see if it works.
Would be nice… but maybe wishful thinking

Right on. If you remember, pls report back if you try the 10-42. Figure they’ll start to go on sale with the 12-speed being more widely available

Where do you find quarq under $500??

Pretty consistently on, Facebook Online Bike Swap Meet. Usually a Riken or Elsa model, but they’re around for sure. Most of mine are Riken or Elsa models. I have 2 Dzero’s. They all work about the same.

Quarq is incredibly good to work with as well. Ive used them since 2010 and had to send back PM’s 2 or 3 times. They’re always back super fast.

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I have to choose between a 11-40 and 11-42.
Obviously the 42 is easier spinning, but I’m wondering if the 40 is more likely to have smoother shifting Given the rest of the drivetrain. Thoughts??

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Yes, I wanted the closer steps. With a 34 fow up front, I am good for the 15-20% extended climbs on a 3 mile hill that I race.

This improved from the 11-32 I had the first time there. I ground down to 45 rpm at times with that and I suffered a ton because of it. I just didn’t have the legs for it. So the 40 was enough for my needs.


There are quite a few Checkpoints around my area. I think the R side Stages are the popular option for the Shimano cranksets. I went with the SRAM 1x on my Checkpoint. Waiting for my Quarq DZero to arrive.

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I have a Checkpoint with DZero. Note that you need to use SRAM’s TREK BB90/BB95 SRAM GXP BOTTOM BRACKET BEARING KIT with GPX version of the DZero. The downside (which I discovered after have bought all this) is that the bottom bracket has more resistance than what I am accustomed to, meaning I’m loosing a couple watts to resistance in the bottom bracket. I am told it is a function of tension across the BB from how the Quarq crank is held on and that it may get better as the BB breaks in. I point this out because I would have liked to know before buying…

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I was about to pull the trigger on stages , but just read an article (found on this forum) from 2017 saying stages is the least accurate and precise of all the options. Any idea if stages has improved on this?

I find the stages right side seems to be about 10w less for a similar effort compared to my pioneer. I can’t really quantify or validate this…just perceived effort… but I’ve trained with power for many years so I’m comfortable with the numbers.

Saying this… it seems from review that alot of right side power meters are reading a bit less on right side for some reason.

I believe it has been mentioned in the podcast that consistancy is more important than accuracy between different power meters.
I have no reason to fault the stages consistancy. Always seems to be around the the right numbers for my effort if that makes sense.
I use the powermeter on the checkpoint mainly for pacing my efforts on climbs and into a big breeze. For that purpose it works well for me.
Hope that helps a little.
So far I have been happy with it.
It has not failed me. Rain,mud,dirt - it has not let me down
The only thing I wish they improved was the plastic on the battery cover which is split when reinstalling the screws after putting a new battery in. (do not tighten it any more than snug!)

This is good to know… cheers for sharing your experience

I already Have the GPX Bottom Bracket since I’m running the SRAM 1x.
Your lose of a couple of watts, is that your perceived experience or is that something you’ve read as a tested lose in watts. I’d be interested to reading up on this lose if you have a source. My Quarq PM is supposed to arrive this coming Tuesday.
Thanks for you input.

Normally, with the chain removed when you spin a crankset by hand, it spins freely (basically no perceptible resistance) and will continue to turn when you stop applying force on it. With my new setup when I do the same, I feel resistance and the crank does not continue spinning when I stop pushing on it. The few watts I`m referring to is by feel only. I would guess single digit watts. Could be the newness of the seal, could be a bad installation, could be frame to frame variation. I have no idea (other theories are welcome!).

Also, in case it matters to anyone I actually have a Dfour91 not a DZero.

I’ll see how it feels after I install the DZero. With the Sram X1 crank it spins quite smoothly. The seals are not new by no means. Hopefully your’s frees up with time.
I’m interested to see how the Quark measures my L R power compared to my the Stages Left side PM. I’ve had a knee replacement so have always wondered if there was a difference between power between the sides.

I’d be very interested to know how it goes for you. Good luck!

does anyone have any opinion of the Power2max? would give me dual sided power

I just about purchased the Power2max, but after a gravel ride where we rode through 4 different low running water areas with water pedal high, I just didn’t think I would trust the rubber battery cover. It may never be a problem, but I’ve had some water problems with a Stages Power Meter & it’s a tighter battery compartment than the Power2max.

I spent a little more & bought a Quarq DZero.

So I’ve installed my Quarq Dzero. It turns freely without the chain as the Sram Crank did.
I did measure both the Sram & Quarq crank shafts. The Quarq measured a miniscule .25 mm on one side & .30 mm on the other side larger than the Sram. I don’t know if this could be from wear or design. It’s probably so minor of a difference it’d not make any difference. Those are very small numbers measured with a electronic micrometer.
I’d be inclined to suspect you should have a new set of bearings installed with the resistance you’re experiencing.