The Bike Fitting Mega-Thread

As requested, I made a new topic for MyVeloFIt. Please use that for continued discussion of that tool. :smiley:

3 Likes

Are you somewhere where you can test saddles in person in a store with a good selection? After having torturous pain that did not get better and I did not “get used to it” by riding longer, I went to a place that had a “Bike Fit Saddle Changer”. After riding for a while on my saddle, they were able to have me stand on the pedals for a few seconds and switch the saddles out quickly underneath me. This allowed me to find one that works for me, and I found the ability to quickly compare the feel of a saddle without seeing it first to be very helpful. I ended up with a saddle that is split all the way down the center, a Serfas RX-RR. I wish it had a bit more of a cutout in the middle, but it is so much better than what I had that I am happy for now.
And here is an interesting article about what we are really sitting on on bones-wise on the bike with a reference to Steve Hogg’s site for further information Sitting on the Sit Bones? Maybe Not - Bike Noob. (Sorry, am new to posting here - not sure this link will work.)
I hope this helps, and I hope you find a solution soon! Saddle pain is the worst and it’s horrible thinking that you just have to tough it out for it to get better. I really think that there must be a saddle out there for everyone, so don’t reach for the Marlboros just yet.

You’re elbows look pretty well locked when you’re on the hoods, but somehow better in the drops. I’m not sure more reach (longer stem) is the answer. Looks like your toes point down at the bottom of your pedal stroke, but hard to see if you’re rocking back and forth in the saddle. I wouldn’t say your saddle is too low and might be a bit too high.

Hey,

so I got my first road (or gravel with road tyres) bike for three weeks now but still figuring out bike fit. When I bought the bike Canyon recommended an XS, but I bought the S, since my inseam (81,5cm) is pretty large for my heigth (171cm). I was ready to put a shorter stem on the bike, but looking at the video I’ll link below, I don’t think being too stretched out is the issue here since my arms are pretty long (ape index of +10). Still I’m not 100% comfortable with the fit I’ve done myself and feel like there are some improvements I could make (saddle heigth? slamming stem?).

Here’s a 60fps video of me after my 90 minute antelope workout, hope you don’t mind the mess in the background :wink:

Edit: forgot to mention my issues:

  • sit bone pain, but I feel I’m still getting used to the saddle
  • lower back pain only on the right side and only when riding outdoors for 90min+
    -bit of stiffness in the neck and shoulders, also only outdoors, but I feel I need to work on relaxing more

I’ll let the experts chime in, but that bike does not look too big to me! Just as an aside, you have the same inseam as me, and I’m 1.77m; Canyon recommend me a small, but at 82.5 inseam - at my height - that goes to a M, so that they suggested an XS for you surprises me.

2 Likes

I am definitely no expert but it looks to me there is too much overlap of your knees and elbows as it is and there’s no way you could have got an XS, perhaps a longer stem would be needed :thinking:

I know that I had hand pain and it was from having too short of a stem, so I put too much weight down on the handlebars, rather than engaging core and being a bit more stretched out.

So 1cm longer stem and it was a perfect fit!

1 Like

Yea, I think I made the right decision going for the S. Still, I think my fit is a bit off.

1 Like

Agree, I think he needs to go longer and lower in the front to drag his body and weight off the saddle a bit, and have a more balanced weight distribution. Looks like he is very rear heavy!

1 Like

I think the fast test is to slam the stem and see how that feels and looks.

Personally, I also would consider your handlebar rotation and hood placement.

  • I tend to set modern bars up with the top flat section of the bars “level” or slightly upward angled pointing forward. Your current setup is down at the top flat.
  • For me, I would rotate the bars up to flat, then reposition the hoods for your preference. That will slightly lengthen the reach a tad, depending on your final hood placement.
  • It’s a “free” change other than the hassle of dealing with bar tape.

Pending those tests above, you can consider it a longer stem for more reach is also needed.

1 Like

Thanks, was looking forward to your answer :slight_smile:

Concerning the bars I was considering the opposite, turning them down a bit more. Especially in the drops I feel like having them turned down a bit more would feel better.
I currently have them turned up (towards me) a bit from 0 degree. Wouldn’t turning them down also give me a bit more reach? I don’t think I’m comfortable with the whole bartape thing yet :smiley:

Would you say my saddle position is in the ballpark? That’s what I’m worried the most of. I noticed in the video that my hip is bouncing a bit on the upstroke, but not sure if this is in the normal range.

Here is what I mean about bar angle.

  • I took a snap of your video, rotated it level in my CAD software, and added some guide lines at the top of the bars.

  • Note that the axles are “level” within reason.

  • Then look at the long, solid line I have drawn. It is effectively the “flat top of the bars” and is pointing down, with respect to the shorter dashed line, that is “level” and parallel to the axles.

  • So, I was suggesting that the “flat top” of the bar, the part that extends from the outer bend to the hood support, might be better level.

  • Rotating the bar up, will cause the hoods to come up and closer to you. So unwrapping, relocating the hood “down” and forward in the bends will lead to a slightly longer reach than the current position.

It’s all guessing from a video at an odd angle, so I may be completely wrong, but that is what I see.

2 Likes
  • Yeah, I think the basic extension looks reasonable. Tough to tell from just one angle, but the hip movement might be normal for you.
  • Hard to tell on fore-aft, but you might even want to try sliding the saddle back about 5mm to see how you like the feel. Will open your reach a bit for one thing. If you like it, you may need to drop your saddle a couple of mm to offset for the “extra height” added by moving the saddle back.

Was thinking the same about going back a few mm. The hip movement might actually be due to too low load. I was doing this with somewhere around 50-60% ftp I think.
Will also experiment a bit with the handlebar position. Thanks for the input! :slight_smile:

1 Like

For fitting, I like to have the rider around Sweet Spot power unless they have a desire to focus at another power level more important to them. Hard but doable and sees what happens when they start to turn the screws a bit.

1 Like

Quick question for you all - should I aim to get my MTB setup the same as my road bike? With reference to saddle height and fore/aft around the BB.

Assuming same cranks and saddle on both.

Or is there a rationale for having different measurements in relation to the BB for road and MTB?

TIA!

You should have at least a slight difference in saddle to BB measure on your road & MTB due to the higher stack height of the MTB. It’s probably ~5mm +/- depending upon which shoes / cleats you use for road & MTB.

1 Like

Forgot about the cleat differences!

1 Like

Went back to my Bike Fitter 3 1/2 years since I last saw him. Have been having major issues with left leg power and thigh pain, feeling of disconnected left foot, Saddle sores etc…

He is a physio, bike fitter and races bike at a high level - a great combo, the only problem he is out of town.

Bike was setup up correctly. Long story short it became a 90 minute physio session with a lot of dry needling to rectify what was going on in my hips (twisted pelvis)

  • 10mm functional leg length difference gone
  • Weak strength responses L leg gone
  • Co-ordination in pedal stroke back
  • Left knee tracking normally again
  • RPE down

Amazing night and day difference from the dry needling. Instant change.

Plan is in place with local physio to try and retain the gains. So relieved!

2 Likes

Interestingly (for me anyway), my L/R balance from Favero Assiomas had been declining from 50/50 to 48/52 over time

After the Dry Needling i was at 51/49 today - never had that before! Bound feeling in the leg was gone too.