The Bike Fitting Mega-Thread

Curious to hear what others have to say. I don’t know what I’d change looking at either video.

I apologize if you have already mentioned this or experimented with this. However, have you tried playing with saddle fore/aft? I bring this up because you have mentioned sliding forward, and needing to tilt the saddle upwards. In particular, have you tried experimenting with moving the saddle back? There are several videos from reputable fitters discussing the benefit of this, as it improves weight distribution on the bike and can remove some weight from the hands. Typically, it may also involve dropping the saddle some, which may also help.

Right on, thanks for taking a look! I’ve taken a few days off the bike and am hoping the minor tweaks I made can help the hip pain once I get back to training.

No prob. Just to be clear, I don’t see anything obviously out of whack, but I’m just a guy on the internet who rides/races bikes waaaaaay too much. :wink:

1 Like

Thanks, that’s reassuring. I more or less wanted to know if anything was glaringly out of whack so I guess we will see what happens!

1 Like

No pictures for this one.

For about the last 2 - 3 weeks, I’ve felt like I’m sitting “twisted” on my trainer - Stages SB20. I don’t feel this way on either my road or gravel bikes, and my trainer is setup to mimic the position of my road bike to the best of my measuring skills.

Exact matches between Trainer & Roadbike:

  • Pedals - same model
  • Shoes - I only have 1 pair of road shoes
  • Same saddle model
  • Same bib shorts

Does anyone have any thoughts on what I should look for? Things to try? I’m sort of at my wits end. The “twisted” feeling makes it uncomfortable to sit in the saddle on the trainer for longer than 2 - 4 minutes straight without need to get out of the saddle and reset myself. Plus after the ride, my knees feel like they’ve gotten unneeded stress on them - so I know it’s not all in my head.

Is it an older saddle that you have repurposed for the trainer? if so, perhaps the rails got bent somehwre along the way.

Are the seatposts on the road and gravel bikes round? Could it be that they are the ones that are “twisted” but that is what you are used to?

A bit of a reach on both, I’m sure, but tossing it out there…

1 Like

Thanks. The saddle on the Trainer was gotten at the same time as the one on my road bike - about a year ago, and has only been used on trainer bikes. I will double check that it is level across the top. I hadn’t thought to check that.

I will check the road and gravel bikes, but it would be weird if both bikes had a similar slant to the saddles.

For starters, getting the measurements from each bike and comparing would be recommended. Maybe you have already done the setup to match the effective saddle position relative to the BB, bars and such, but if not… that is very necessary if you aim to “match” setup between more than one bike.

Using something like these sheets is beneficial:

To do this - match saddle to bottom bracket and handlebar to bottom bracket - across my three bikes (road, trainer, and gravel), I purchased the VeloAngle pro, and I’m using this to match positions. So down to the accuracy of this device, my road and trainer bikes match positions. Which is why this issue is so confusing

1 Like

Perfect, that is far better than what I see most people do. And yes, with that in place, it is confusing since everything should be very close to the same.

Gotta think a bit more again since setup may not be the issue now.

1 Like

In addition to what others have said, things to consider:

  1. Stack height differences between pedal/shoe combos
  2. if different shoes used on the trainer, make sure a cleat has not moved, or you have not done something silly like added an extra insole to one shoe (i use insole inserts and swap between shoes and have made this mistake!).
  3. make sure that the trainer (in this case smart bike) is level/plumb.
  4. is your TV/laptop/etc off center. you might be surprised what looking a few degrees one way or another can do.
  5. Are your pedals set at the same crank length on both arms. I expect this would feel obvious given the design of the SB20, but this is the sort of prank a mischievous teammate or teenager might play on you.
1 Like

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

Following up on @Power13’s suggestion, I used my level to check my SB20, and found that the saddle is tilted such that the left side is higher than the right. To diagnose, I started checking from the floor up, and the first place I’m seeing this is at the fore / aft adjustment “rod”. So now I need to check if the seat mast is vertical / plumb with my much smaller level to try and really narrow in on what is causing the problem.

So I’ve narrowed it down to the top of the removal seat post to the portion that holds the fore / aft saddle adjustment rode. The sides of the removable seat post are perfectly vertical / plumb. Support ticket filed with Stages to get (hopefully) a new removable seat post to fix this problem. There isn’t any play anywhere else that I could shim, without causing other problems.

What made this so confusing is that:

  • I know the floor in the paincave is deadlevel
  • I’m using the same pedal models on both my road & trainer
  • I’m using the exact same shoes for my road & trainer
  • I wear the same bibs - I just pull a pair from the bibs drawer
  • I’m using the same saddle brand on both road & trainer
  • I’ve matched position between road & trainer as exactly as I can
1 Like

So talked with Stages today on the phone - follow-up on a ticket I created on this yesterday - an they are sending me out a replacement seat post. So hopefully that will solve this problem. Really happy that Stages jumped on this so quickly.

1 Like

It’s good they are fixing it, but a bummer. I have a local friend who received a SB20 with a poorly welded front handlebar support that was also misaligned, and lead to a “turning” handlebar on a bike with no steering :open_mouth:

Some quality control issues from a company I would have expected to have it more dialed in than the competitors.

Agreed in general. I don’t have stats if the issue I faced is a one-off, or more prevalent. If one off, I give them a pass (it happens). More prevalent, no.

The more prevalent issue, which I faced when I first got my SB20 was that the right side flywheel cover in the front wasn’t installed correctly. This is the cause of the noise that some people report, as the flywheel brushes the cover when it rotates. Besides being a sloppy installation issue, this could also be greatly reduced by a simple redesign. There is a screw that is supposed to pull the cover away from the flywheel, but the cover barely extends beyond where the screw is. Plus the screw doesn’t have a washer, so it could easily “slip” from pulling the flywheel cover. This was a real bear to fix, as the screw is in a tight confined space - I think it took me about 30 minutes to fix.

Lame. Hope they learn and fix as they go.

Agreed. I sent a long feedback email with my initial impressions, and mentioned this as one. To me, this feels like a no brainer to fix, as its probably <$1.00 in cost, and the cost for not fixing is more expensive, both in real dollars + repetitional dollars.

Here’s hoping the new seat post fixes that issue. If so, then I would be all good to go (hopefully for as long as my gen1 kickr).

1 Like

I’m getting neck pain on my road bike fit, but I’ve got bend in the elbows, and it doesn’t seem excessively low. It also doesn’t start in until 3+ hours into a ride; felt it more after a 7 hour ride on the weekend. Is that to some extent “part of the deal”, me getting older, or totally unacceptable with a good fit?

Hard to say without much more info, but generally speaking, discomfort at and beyond 3 hours is fairly common and may be expected. Depends on lots of factors, to include your riding history at and beyond that time for one. Fit is important and should be considered, but I don’t consider what you described as a massive red flag.