Here is my new SL6 with updated bars. I was really close to pulling the trigger on the SL7 Expert, but didn’t LOVE it. I really like the ride of this SL6 and wanted to get a flat bar. The aerofly 2 seemed like a great option. I also was able to get them to clean up the wires some. My only concern is that I feel like the hoods don’t seem level with the top and I feel like I’m reaching too much when compared with my previous bar with what seems like the same profile of the drops.
I’m trying not to be too anal about it, but I drove 1.25 hours (without traffic) to drop it off and picked it up tonight 1.45 hours (when I was 30 minutes closer with work). I was in dress clothes and got there 10 mins before closing. I didn’t notice it until I got home 2 hours later. I REALLY don’t want to have to go back. I figure if I don’t need to adjust it I can retape (another 40) and slide shifter hoods up.
What do you think about Hood alignment? Am I right or being dumb? I also feel like a shorter stem might be worth a consideration. Anybody else install these and change a stem?
Is the flat part of the bar parallel to the ground? From the pictures it looks like it is slanted upwards, which makes it hard to judge - at least for me - if the hoods are level.
Great looking bike! Hood positioning is very personal. I like mine lower than what you have, but if it’s uncomfortable you should change it. Give it a ride or two though, it may just be a little different than what you’re used to, but not bad.
You can swap that stem in 5 min with no issues going shorter. Since you tightened up the cables it might be harder to go longer, but that’s not what you want.
I would just undo that tape down to the hoods, adjust, and the re-wrap and don’t need any new tape. Should be fine with supacaz tape. At least worth a try
I bought the SL6 comp (di2/disc) to save $$$ as I wanted the Enve 5.6 and so glad I made that decision. I knew the wheels on the comp were not great but even with what I did I came out paying less than buying a Pro.
Yep sounds like I’ll need new BB as well as cranks.
The idea was for me to swap out for SL7 frame + BB + new cranks and sell the Venge w/the factory s-works crank and BB.
But after giving it some thought, I don’t think the performance will be noticeable to justify all the trouble of taking apart the bike and putting it together. I’ll likely just keep the Venge and wait another 7-8 years to upgrade later down the road.
I was riding a Cervelo S2 2015 for years and upgraded to the SL7. LBS loaned me a 2020 SL6 Comp for a month while my SL7 was being delivered & I definitely feel a difference in the two bikes. Not exactly an apples to apples comparison here but the SL7 is noticeably stiffer and faster but I think the SL6 could be more comfortable for some.
I got this for my BMC, which has a similar bar/stem arrangement. It’s not perfect, but it’s a hard case that’ll work w/ integrated cables so long as the bar/stem aren’t one piece.
I didn’t pay anywhere close to $1250 when I got it new last year.
I don’t have a tarmac, but I used an Orucase airport ninja to take my Cervelo R5 VWD to Europe last year…worked perfectly, I’d recommend it. It does require more disassembly of the bike though, not sure how that goes with disc brakes (I’m still on all rim brake bikes)
I have one of those too, and I agree it’s awesome. But the only way I could get my BMC with internally routed hydraulics into it was to remove the bar tape and shifters, lay the bar in the case, and then redo it on the other end. The hydraulic cables are not long enough to lay the bar on the side. That’s why I got the SCICON noted a few posts above.
If you’re able to use the PAKGO X w/ the internal hydraulics, please share tips. I couldn’t figure it out.
Are you able to “pull” the cables a bit when you’re packing?
I remember when I packed my Venge in another case that was right, I actually asked the shop to leave the hoses a bit longer inside the handlebar, so there were a few CM of hose.
Do you have any photos of where it doesn’t fit with the BMC?
I also realised that I always put the handlebars in a different way compared to the instructions. I put them like this:
Thanks so much! There is no play at all in the cables in mine. I even had my hydraulics redone, and I should have asked about leaving some play in the cables, but by then I had the SCICON.
It’s been awhile, but I imagine I tried something like the 2d pic. The fork is turned forward on the stand in the PAKGO, so maybe that was my problem? Honestly don’t recall.
This has been such a pain, I can’t believe one-piece bar/stems are all the rage. Non-adjustable and a PITA. Yuck. I respect that Spec hasn’t been doing that.
Wondering how you are feeling about your new bike. Has the placebo worn off, or is it still a huge improvement for you? Happy with it, and the ride and feel?
Only 779 kilometers on my SL7 and currently trying it in Italian roads with some climbing in the Dolomites and I am still very much impressed by this bike and the combination with the Roval Rapidair wheels. Really fast on the flats, climbs great (unfortunately I do not), handles great in the descends and is not affected by downhill wind. Do like the flat part of the bars to put my hands on while climbing. I thought this would not be as good as it actually is. Still looking for the negatives. Sorry for that, but may still be on the honeymoon part of the journey.
