I use because that’s what came with my full xxsl pm group that I got a great deal at BTF and I would spend another $500ish for a crankset, but wish it was, that bunch of spacers is only to collect dirt and it’s a mess to be honest
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Circling back - I did my first chainring swap today and it was as easy as reported using the sram tool. Easier than messing with chainring bolts. I’m still not a fan of having a new unique standard, maybe SRAM will expand to other cranks at some point. It seems like it’s a well thought out design, but the cost of the rings is a bit stupid.
I’m not seeing any online retailers with the SRAM threaded chainrings in stock, particularly 32T. Anyone have any luck?
At least in the EU area they seem to be available. See for example bike24 and r2.
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Not a chain ring, but I ordered replacement Force eTap AXS D1 levers in April and I will likely receive a replacement in the beginning of September. To be fair, the LBS got sent a replacement lever, but it was the newer D2 version (the website had the wrong picture for the item).
When I got my bike a couple months ago, the 32 was showing out of stock at a lot of places, but my LBS was able to get one in a few days (along with the sl power meter which was also out of stock at most places). The rings I got are zero offset, not sure if those are more/less available than the 3mm offset versions.
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Did you end up having to take the crankarm off the bike to get the chainring off using the SRAM chainring tool? It looks like that’s what they are recommending in the manual but curious on your real world experience?
Yes, the chainring comes off to the inside of the spider so the crank needs to be off the bike.
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I’m confused about the chainline and offsets discussed here. Can some one help me understand? I’m upgrading drivetrain on my '22 Oiz from the following:
- QUARQ DZero DUB AXS XX1 Eagle Boost Power Meter Black 104 mm
- SRAM XX1 Eagle DUB 8-Bolts
- SRAM Dub PF92 BB (I think with 52 chainline; Orbea bluepaper says my frame has a 52 chainline).
Replacing with the XX SL Transmission with power. The new XX SL has a 55 chainline. So I think that I can use my existing BB, and just need to add a 3mm spacer on the non-drive side. Is that correct? Or do I need a new BB, or an offset ring or something?
Spacers for the spindle are dependent on your spindle width. You can either buy an XXSL crank with a 168mm q factor or a 174mm q factor. If you buy the 168, you 'll use the same spacers that you would for your XX1 cranks (they are dimensionally/functionally the same). If you get the 174mm cranks you’ll need additional 3mm spacers on each side. The spacers for the BB/spindle aren’t related to your chainline.
For the chainline:
Assuming you are running an XXSL derailleur/cassette in your new setup, you’ll need/want a 55mm chainline so you’ll need a 0mm offset chainring for a 168q crank and a 3mm offset chainring for a 174q crank.
Here is a good screenshot from SRAM support.
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What’s the idea behind replacing the XX1 quarq pm with xx sl? If it’s to run transmission on your bike you could also just swap out the chainring to this one: Eagle Transmission E-MTB Chainring 104 BCD | CR-TTYP-104-A1 | SRAM or if you’re using a slightly worn x-sync 2 chainring it’s probably gonna work just fine with transmission. Just need the proper chainline for your frame, which is probably 52mm anyway.
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Just to try to keep this clear - if he swaps to transmission, the “proper” chainline is 55mm, regardless of the frame. That said, you can get away with not always matching the intended chainline for the groupset. For example, I run 52mm or 55mm chainline depending on which chainring I’m on but always with traditional Eagle, which is 52mm “proper”.
Editing this because I went back to confirm in SRAMs literature and they do say that Transmission is designed for “between 52-55mm” so you could certainly reasonably keep a 52mm chain line crank setup. @jn92 is onto it there
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Thanks for the clarification. So the move would be to get a transmission compatible 0 offset chainring for the proper 55mm transmission chainline as per the sram support email above
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Yes, definitely the cleanest if he wants to keep his current PM, which would make sense.
Yeah the first question is are you also going to a Transmission RD/Cassette? If that’s the case, you’ll just need to add 3mm of spacer on each side relative to whatever the OEM spacer config was for a 52mm chainline. Ex, on my bike it was 0mm spacer on the left and 4.5mm spacer on the drive side. I went up to 3mm on the left and 7.5mm on the right.
If you’re trying to use the XXSL T-Type crank with a non-T Type Eagle, it technically wouldn’t work because you wouldn’t be able to get it back to a 52mm chainline, as you would need a -6mm offset ring.
I believe a 3mm offset ring gets you back to 52mm chainline. I’m pretty sure the offset moves the ring in, not out. I’m just going off memory of when I went through this with my Epic when I added the XXSL crank/pm (there was a lot of back and force between me, SRAM support, and my LBS to figure it out with the different Q factor cranks). It’s been 9 months since I messed with it, so I could be remembering it wrong, but pretty sure that’s how it worked.
This isn’t correct. If you are using a 174Q crank, you can’t get back to a 52mm chain line, however, if you are running XXSL, it’s available in both 168Q and 174Q and a 168Q crank with a 3mm offset chainring is a 52mm chain line. I’m running that exact setup with a new XXSL crank/threaded PM and an XX1 Eagle RD/cassette.
The spacers for the crank are also dependent on the spindle length. A 168Q XXSL will still take 0mm spacers on non-drive and 4.5mm on drive side.
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You’re right I forgot the XXSL crank comes in multiple spindle lengths. I just did this exercise with the X0 crank that only comes in Dub Wide.
That all got confusing again. Yes, I got the whole XX SL groupset, including RD and cassette. I believe it is the standard q factor of 174, but will have to confirm when I’m home from work. It came from SRAM in a whole single packaged kit. I don’t think they sell the 168 (narrow) in the kit do they? Taking off all the XX1 stuff. Main reason for the swap is that I got the XX SL with PM groupset for a great deal (also had tariff panic) and plan to offset the cost even more by selling the XX1 stuff. Or possibly use it on a gravel build?
So if I’m going full XX SL, and have a 174 spindle, I just need a 3mm spacer on each side and that will be the right chainline and work with my frame? Is that right?
I don’t know for sure, but when I was going back and forth with SRAM, the point of confusion was the 168q crank. Per the SRAM guy, all the OEM builds come with the 174 and that’s what they are used to seeing. I guess it’s possible a 168 could come in a kit, but it seems like that crank is the exception rather than the standard.