SRAM Eagle and DUB Compatability for MTB Newb

Hi there -

i am a newb in the MTB space, Have done a good deal of research and bought a Grand Canyon 7.

link here:

the crank is a * Truvativ Stylo 6K DUB 30T ’

i am looking to swap this out for a SRAM eagle crank with more teeth

i am assuming any of these DUB cranks will work ?

if any could help me here to confirm / deny / clarify i would be hugely grateful

i want to get on a SRAM crank so i have the option of the Power2Max power meter later on

a thousand thank you’s

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I believe DUB is DUB, and any DUB crank can replace another. My 2019 Procaliber came with Truvativ Stylo DUB crank which I swapped for SRAM Quarq XX1 Eagle DUB with no issues. That same XX1 crank just replaced the SRAM GX Eagle on my new Supercaliber.

Edit: how many times can I write ‘DUB’? :roll_eyes::rofl:


If you just want more teeth you can get a new chainring. Truvativ crankset uses the same chainring bolt direct mounting pattern (3-bolt) as SRAM Eagle. Which also means you can get a Power2Max PM for the Truvativ crank, it’s the same as the one you would buy for a SRAM eagle crankset.

Note: some XX1 Eagle cranksets use 8-bolt chainring mount, meaning the only compatible PM is Quarq. But yours is 3-bolt, so it’s compatible with Eagle chainrings and P2Max pms.


oh great to hear thanks!

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this is wonderfully helpful thanks

i was concerned about whether i’d be able to go up to a 36 clearance wise - ?

You’ll need to ask canyon about that. I’m sure it clears 34 but 36 can be iffy.

Yeah, what chainring you can use is a frame issue, not crank.

“Dub” is the bottom bracket standard. Realistically you can just change out the BB and run a non Dub crank too if you wanted. I am running a Raceface on one of my bikes so I am running a 30mm BB, but I could replace it with a Dub BB and run a Sram crank. Or replace it with a 24mm and run Shimano (which my other MTB uses).

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thanks for your help.

i think i might just try grab a 32 and a 34t then and use the Truvativ if DUB is DUB is DUB ! haha

I agree the easiest thing here would be to just get new chainrings… However, chainrings usually come in 3 offsets. Make sure you get the 3mm otherwise your chainline is going to be off.

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Truvativ is a SRAM product. The Stylo series is heavier and aimed more at park rats or Enduro etc where the cranks are likely to get a beating. And they’re cheaper than GX so get specced on price point bikes.

As mentioned above, the chainring mounts the same so long as it is spiderless.

Two things to watch for…

Getting the correct offset chainring…3mm for 142mm rear end, and 6mm for 148mm rear end. You’ll not have good gearing with the wrong offset.

A 36 is unlikely to fit as it will hit the chainstay. They are also quite rare to find…Hope or Absolute Black may have them. A 34 is likely the largest that will fit.

As an MTB newb, don’t overestimate your abilities to climb a 20% grade with a 36x50…most of us run 32s for a reason!


Unless you are a pro, you should not be using a 36-tooth chain ring. Like others have said, for that reason many frames don’t even work with 36-teeth chain rings.

A 30 is fine, and I certainly wouldn’t go larger than a 32-tooth chain ring. Remember, you are not your gearing. More teeth doesn’t make you faster. And you’ll miss climbing gears on a mountain bike much more than gears on descents. Even with a 28-tooth chain ring, you can easily reach speeds of about 35 km/h pedaling at 90 rpm.


This entirely depends on where you live and how fit you are. If you live at elevation and do a lot of climbing, sure then a 30t might be a good idea.

If you’re >4watt/kg and live in a flat area 36t is certainly a good fit, maybe even a 38t. I personally hardly use the 50t on the back and run a 36t year round. The steep climbs I have around me is short enough that you just power through them.

Other way around

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I run a 32T, I might go back to a 34T once I get back over 5w/kg, at least for certain races.

I have to be doing something like 30 MPH before I am spinning out, and I am virtually never going that fast in an MTB race. I just took a look and was surprised to see that on one of the short fireroad DH’s that I was doing 300w at 24 MPH accelerating for a short and steep uphill and I was nowhere near spun out.

I do race at a bit of elevation a lot though, and do have a decent amount of climbing in my races

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Ahh, yes! My bad.

Here’s a massive SRAM logo next to a small amount of information:

And a better explainer: Direct Mount Chainrings for SRAM Cranks – Wolf Tooth Components


Totally get you!

i was going off what @Jonathan said in a youtube clip about suing a 36 for workouts on the road.

i was thinking 32 for fireroad climbs. but on 1-5% tarmac for TR workouts i was thinking perhaps more.

i am far from being a pro but am just over 5w/kg atm

thanks for your help!

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super helpful thanks !

Yes, this is pretty straight forward - your current ring is a “direct mount” meaning ‘no spider’ to mount the chainring on. The Power2Max fits in place of the spider, so you just need a 12sp Eagle ring that fits the P2M.

SRAM uses 3 crank BB mounts- GXP, BB30, and now DUB and 3 different ring to crank 3-bolt (older), 8-bolt, and 8-bolt DUB. The standard 8-bolt and 8-bolt dub look the same, but the dub version is slightly different. The direct mount rings all fit and P2M says their PM fits.

Your bike uses a BSA hole in the frame to mount the BB; those are pretty easy and cheap to swap out if needed, so don’t let that be a consideration.
Note: SRAM’s Rival PM might (should) have a MTB equivalent at some point, that might be a better direction for you at the $250 price point.

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i reached out to power 2 max and they informed me their spiders won’t support a 30t only 32?

i can’t seem to see 3 bolt power meter’s from Quarq either unless i am misunderstanding the info above …

however this is listed as DUB compatible → PM-DZ-SPDR-D1 | SRAM

Right, SRAM Quarq are kinda annoying… and only allow their PM’s to work with the higher end cranks that use the 8 screw mounts.

No 3 screw options for the mid to low end stuff. That is one reason I ended up with P2M instead. Silly to force a crank upgrade as SRAM effectively does, unless you already have the X01/XX in place.