Spare wheel for trainer

I have a CycleOps Power Trainer with an extra trainer tire that I put on my wheel before doing indoor rides. The extra time to change the tire back and forth is getting tedious- so I want to buy a cheep wheel and set it up just for my trainer. Then I can just swap wheels.

It’s a cross bike, but I have it setup with road tires and ride it mostly on the trainer, in Saturday morning group rides and a few tris a year.

The current cassette is this Shimano 10 speed cassette. SHIMANO CS-5600 10 Speed Cassette (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y5HD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2TjCbJP80H1M

I live in Florida so the hearing while not ideal doesn’t ever seem to hold me back.

The cassette is old and the chain is old.

A few questions:

  1. should I get a new chain and cassette for my outdoor wheel and then put the old cassette on my to be purchased indoor wheel?
  2. should I get two new cassettes? Again I wouldn’t do this for gearing only if a better cassette would make me faster.
  3. is a wheel like this ok for indoor riding? Something cheaper? Sta-Tru Silver Shimano 2200 8-9-10 Speed Cassette Hub Rear Wheel (700X20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YJ2KWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4.TjCbQADS0P4

Why not just use the same tire for outdoors and indoors?

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I live in SC and had the same exact issue. I had an outdoor tire used on my 2008 Trek 1.2 but when I started riding my Kinetic on wheel trainer bits of the rubber coated the floor after a lot of use. So I bought a Continental Trainer tire, but then had the problem you are experiencing. I ended up buying a new wheel with cassette. It was inexpensive in the $125 range, but still lighter and quieter than my original Factory issue wheel. It’s as close to the same wheel as I could find to limit adjustment problems when I switch back and forth. So I like your idea of getting two new cassettes. I paid my local Trek store for the wheel, cassette and setting them up. The breaks are obviously tuned to the outdoor wheel. I now run 28mm Continental GP4000 on the outdoor and front wheels and keep the indoor 25mm tire on my trainer. I keep an eye on the lube and stretch of the chain to replace when needed. I don’t think you need to replace it unless your chain wear tool says it’s time. I still have a little tuning to do when I switch wheels but it’s not more than one or two half a turns on the rear derailleur adjustment knob. The wheel you linked to looks fine, but I chose to support a local store to make sure I got the right wheel. Hope this helps.

I’ve run Continental GP4000IIS on my Kickr Snap for years without issue. I’ve seen others post that their tires are perishing on their trainer, but that’s not something I’ve ever experienced. I run in ERG in low gearing so I’m guessing that there is less heat from a slower wheel spin. Maybe give that a try if you have that option.

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It wears down really quickly

In my experience it doesn’t matter what wheel you use for indoor riding. I’d go for something as cheap as you can get, so long as it’s true then the weight doesn’t matter.
As for the cassette / chain, I think the best solution is to use some money saved on the wheel to buy 2 new (identical) cassettes and a new chain. This isn’t going to make you faster, but it will reduce any issues with shifting when swapping the between wheels.

I’m another who uses the same tyre indoors and out. With my Cyclops Fluid 2 I have noticed some wear (black residue) but it’s not excessive and I really can’t be bothered to swap in a trainer tyre every time.

The outlay of a spare wheel/tyre/cassette etc doesn’t have to be unreasonable but I would rather just periodically buy a new set of tyres.

If the cassette and chain are old have they worn beyond an acceptable level? If you have a lot of chain stretch then you will possibly need to replace chainrings as well.

Hi, I currently have a trainer tyre and a spare cassette. I only have one wheel however so need a cheap one for indoors. Any recommendations?

EBay/Craiglist, and use old road tires. That’s the cheapest route.

Continental ultra sport 2 works perfectly as well, for half the price.

Key for me is to keep it clean, 120 psi, high roller pressure. I get no debris flying off the tyre or noticeable wear.

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On the road bike, I use an old wheel that was finally DONE. Spokes would break – brake line was extremely worn. Replaced with a new wheel (set) – kept the others for the trainer. Just set it up with a trainer tire and give it the old cassette off the the outside wheel (when it gets replaced).

Shoot, ask in your riding group who has an old beatup wheel that is not good for outdoor rides anymore. Someone will have one.

The Conti GP4000IIS, that @julianoliver mentions, is a fantastic tire that not only has low rolling resistance for great outdoor riding but is also highly durable. The additional wear due to use on indoor training is minimal compared to the convenience.

I was, however, surprised to see you mention that you have an old chain. If you don’t have a go-nogo chain measurement tool, you should get yourself one. An out-of-spec chain (technically they are not stretched, material wears away to create long interlink spacing) will cause excess wear on your chain ring and cassette. Once you have done that for an extended period of time, your ride wont be smooth and may experience skipping. Then your costs escalate to needing to replace chain rings, cassette and chain.

A metal straight ruler can also be used. The objective is to measure how much pin/roller wear has occurred, and this is measured by chain length compared to its spec multiples of one inch.

But +1 for ensuring you don’t run an old chain - it’s the cheapest consumable, and letting a worn chain on will bring chainrings and cassettes onto the bill.

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Hi. I just purchased an extra wheel and casette from my local shop and mounted my indoor tire on it, so that, as mentioned, I could simply switch the wheels between outdoor and indoor rides. I’ve noticed that one a couple of gears (in the middle) the alignment is perfect as it was. When you mention adjusting a couple of turns on the rear derailleur, can you upload a picture or explain on which ones you adjust, so that I can try to see if that solves the problem? Thanks in advance for your help.

Giorgio, sorry to drop the ball on this. I am turning the rear derailleur adjustment knob. On my bike I have a mechanical Shimano 105 shifter and the knob is the last part of the cable where it attaches to the derailleur. I usually turn this a quarter turn at a time and count how many I do in case that direction makes the shifting worse. Then I know how to get back to where I started so I can go the other direction. Hope this helps.

Hi Jim, thanks for the info! I did end up finding that out and adjusting and it seems to be fine now. Giorgio

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