I’ve got an 11 speed bike but was just going to buy a cheap trainer of any apples for the trainer - are there any issues to be aware of?
I believe an 8 speed microshift cassette is only about £8. Any issues with using that on an 11 speed ultegra drive train?
If you are running it in Erg mode all the time, it should be OK. The cogs will be thicker than what the 11 spd chain is designed for, so it will likely be noisier than an 11 spd cassette and I suppose you would theoretically Ave faster chain wear as a result, but since it is inside and away from the elements, it is probably marginal, at best.
If you want to use it for Zwift, though, it won’t work because the shifting spacing will be very different than the cassette spacing.
If you are willing to use Microshift or other off-brands, there’s other 11-s road cassettes for not much more than the 8-s.
Honestly, I don’t think cheaping out on a cassette makes sense. Spend a bit more and have a proper setup that gives the most flexibility of use.
I used an Ultegra cassette on my 2T. It was quiet and shifted far better and the amount of time I was riding it, it was totally worth it since I ride far more indoors than out. Riding R8000 Di2. It just worked so much better. If you ride far more outdoors, I can see using a cheap setup indoors, but the added wear has to be taken into account at some point. Cheaper cassettes are noisier and more noise means more wear.
Lane change: People complained that they had to buy a cassette for the 2T, but I’d rather have it that way so I can then ride what I want and not be coerced to ride the included cassette, or have it taking up bin space until I donate/toss it. shrug You do you…
Still on cassettes: How many people were looking for cassettes during the pandemic and could only find NOS (New Old Stock) Dura-Ace? That was a surprise.
Happy to report that ever since I pulled the trigger and bought a Kickr Bike my H3 has been working flawlessly. 
That’s why I am asking I would only go cheap if they’re isn’t a penalty. As I am a regular Zwift racer I need the gear changing ability
No I ride way more indoors in the Scottish winter. Also 11sp di2 just feels like everything is expensive and now I need to buy another ultra cassette. But I accept it’s an expensive hobby and that’s what I need to do.
You don’t have to use an Ultegra cassette, it just seems to run quieter/better with one over time. It’s made for Di2 with special sauce baked in at the factory (angled teeth, and such). I’ve used 105 cassettes too which are okay too, just seem a little noisier. I’m just glad I had a trainer that I could hear the drivetrain over its noise. #FirstWorldProblems?
I ride indoors mostly because I stretched a couple tendons in my wrist and hand. I’m trying to avoid surgery which is ghastly from everything I’ve seen. They drive pins into the wrist to immobilize the bones tied together by the tendons, and the pins stick out through the skin for the first couple weeks, and then they cast them in place for 3 or 4 months. All an injury on a ‘safe’ rail trail.
Be careful out there!
Anyone have issues with intermittent squeeking from their H3 while riding? Was having this issue in the past as well as red dust coming through the vent holes of the trainer, contacted Saris, got a new belt kit sent to me by them, they never really indicated what the issue was just sent me a replacement belt kit. Its still squeeking. The belt should be aligned and the tension is appropriate, I’m guessing if its the same as before if the belt is squeeking, its also wearing… I don’t know what is causing it and as many have noted each email from Saris customer support has like a 2 week delay so takes forever to resolve something with them…
guessing new belt has to seat on the pulleys, could try some automotive serpentine belt conditioner, NOT WD40 or any lubricant you want a slight tackiness that the conditioner provides. also when off check no bits from the old belt are in the grooves and maybe wipe down with alcohol to be a clean surface for new belt.
The counterweight didn’t help. Used 8 lbs.
What helped was unstrapping the trainer and hitting the leg with a rubber mallet to shift the whole thing more toward the center by about an inch. I might’ve just had the thing too far to the left. Things still seem centered and I feel more level now. Might go a little more To the right.
In the end, the solution to many engineering problems is “hit it with a bigger hammer.”
Yeah, hence why I started with “Assuming you have it set so the bike is truly dead center to the deck” in my comment above. It is the best place to start with any rocker setup, using a counterweight or not. The Saris H3 is VERY lopsided in the layout and does need to be more to the left than might look right at first.
Dropping a plumb line from the middle of the BB or using other methods like a carpenter square to the BB or crank arms and matching distance on both sides are ways to double check with more accuracy.
Considering how stiff the MP1 leveling springs are, we’ve not seen a ton of people benefit from a counterweight. It’s just so stiff it doesn’t matter like it does for a lighter spring setting.
Glad you got it sorted and hopefully you can fully enjoy and take advantage of the motion 
I’ll check with the plumb bob. When I initially set it up, I measured with tape measure, but I wasn’t that worried about getting it truly dialed. Then I started riding and had to noticeably shift weight to feel level, so I need to be more precise with it. Hitting it Hammer with the hammer helped, so now I’ll go back out and get it proper.
These are really sad news that a 12 speed Shimano cassette will not work on the Saris for my new Canyon Endurace CF SL8 Di2 with Shimano Ultegra 12 speed…
That means I have to look for antoher trainer?
Just an update to my H3 woes, after receiving the belt replacement kit and swapping the belt, it has still been squeaking. Contacted Saris again to let them know, they suggested perhaps I installed the belt wrong but as its the same issue I had before the belt replacement I suggested the belt swap likely wasn’t involved.
They are sending me a new driven screw kit, not looking forward to tearing it down again but oh well.
Has anyone had issues with that were addressed with a driven screw replacement?
On the positive side, customer service seems to be substantially improved, in the past responses have been very slow, today they are responding next day and able to shoot emails back and forth in minutes this afternoon. I recall emailing them in ~2020 to ask a question and they answered like 3 weeks later lol.
Was going to try a bike fit on my H3. According to the spirit level, the back hub axle is about 2” lower than the front hub axle.
Surprised that the neutral position isn’t level. Am I doing something wrong?
Or maybe surprised that the rear is lower than the front. Would have assumed the opposite, if anything.
What kind of bike, size of front wheel & tire?
I’ve used mine for some fits and had to raise the rear for MTB fits with 29ers.
Diamondback Haanjo. 700x40 wheel/tire in front. Should highlight that it’s all mounted on an MP1, but the plywood deck measures dead flat.
Edit: As you’re aware, I’m using the AI bike fit. So I could certainly shim it all to get it level temporarily while on the MP1, but for regular day to day riding on the trainer – doesn’t that 2" change in elevation make a difference for fit?
@mcneese.chad – Here’s what it looks like in my temporary setup. Yes, could remove the block under the front wheel. That would gain me about an inch. But front axle would still be about 1" higher than rear axle.
Yeah. The Hammer series trainer was not designed to have that larger riser block. There’s a reason Saris included the super thin one.
Also keep in mind that they most likely designed the axle height to be close to level for a typical road bike having a 700 x 25-28 tire. Your 40mm gravel tire will make the front taller. Overall point is that if your end goal is a level axle setup, change is needed.
Talking about your goals in light of using the AI fitting tool is interesting. Not sure it matters for their app, but level could be beneficial. Might be worth an email to them.
As you mention, I tend to like and recommend a higher front for indoor use. It is a hack to deal with the lack of wind force we tend to get outside. It’s about dealing with weight displacement and doesn’t work for everyone.
This is one of those “it depends” situations and you may be headed in a direction that differs a bit from what the app expects?
