I’d like advice on aligning the chain and rear derailleur better. I used the spacer with my a 10-32 Shimano cassette. When mount the bike onto the trainer (on the smallest cog), the chain tries to jump up to the next cog
Here’s a video of the chain. chain issue - YouTube.
Here’s photo of the aligment ( i left it the 2nd smallest cog for now, because it won’t stay in the first)
Typically quietest is straight chain in the middle of the cassette in my experience. As far as barrel adjuster more than likely it has to do with the spacer without even looking at the video.
Further to my video yesterday I made a couple more videos which show the knocking.
In the longer video I freewheeled at the end to show that the knocking is not coming from the drive train.
Still nothing from Saris Support…
Yes I imagined that would be the case everything has slowed down.
Was this noise not the same noise you experienced on yours I read you had lots of issues, are you issue free now?
If the belt is rubbing what would the fix be? New belt?
I noticed on zwift say when I am riding on a 0% gradient it is noisy but then when the gradient goes up it dissapears or is much quieter, I will send to support and see what they think.
I had a loud scrape sound during low rpm, small ring situations. I opened up the case and found that the large fanned pulley/belt had been scraping away the casing. I sanded away some chunks of plastic holding on and put the case back on WITHOUT bolting it down. This left about a an extra 1/4 inch between the case and the internals. Still plenty of space between the cassette and the case. Scrape was completely gone. I’m either going to modify the case further or add some spacers to the bolts. Pretty silly, but it’s been a great trainer other than that sound. Glad to be rid of the scrape.
Heard back from Saris support and after a little bit of back and forth with them requesting more info and me providing details below is there response regarding a sudden change in power readings. I’m satisfied with their response and hope that a new firmware update comes out that makes the readings more in line with my crank-based power meter.
Thanks for all the details and information here Jake.
It is true that the reading from powermeter to trainer can vary. This can come down to the software, algorithms and positioning of each read point. Pretty consistently a powermeter will read higher than a trainer since it is closer to the power output location (you/your cranks). In addition to this it does sound like you have multiple devices running here. While all the data is helpful and useful for your ride it can cause slower bandwidth and that can cause additional delays in the data that is being processed. The trainer for example is doing a lot of back and forth with the application to control resistance and the ride while the power2max is working to provide a reading but not a whole lot of other data is being communicated there.
While we continually try to push updates for the trainer to keep up to date with applications that are out there, it is possible that the latest update changed something in the readings you get - improving resistance control for example, while potentially causing the reading to skew away from the powermeter slightly.
Unfortunately, that can be ever changing. I would recommend choosing one (trainer or power2max) and sticking with it. A lot of people who run both, will choose the trainer for speed and resistance control while they use their powermeter for the power readings and cadence. One thing to check as well is that the crank length is entered correctly for the powermeter if you have that feature as well.
Alternatively, we can bring the trainer in for evaluation and repair to see if something is going on - this does require you to send the trainer in and while any evaluation or repair is covered under warranty, the cost of shipping the trainer to us is your responsibility.
Let me know if you have other questions on this or want to have your trainer brought in! Thanks,
Quick question, how are people now doing spin downs and updates? My buddy who bought my old H2 used to use Rouvy but now it’s not working on iOS and the Saris Utility app seems to do nothing either
Just wanted to make you aware, that we (Trek) do not own Saris and it’s products (including past names CycleOps). We only sell their products as a third part distributor.
Could you please edit your post so others don’t make the same confusion? Thanks!
I’ve found a scraped away plastic area about 2 inches across on the inside of the case “lid”. I couldn’t figure out what was doing it though (or even if it’s been done by someone else then returned).
I do like the H3 (used 90% in practically silent ERG mode since I got it a month ago), but the noisy grating creaking due to the smooth pulley (the fact that sanding it apparently sorts that issue), and now this, is making me wonder.
Sanding is a temporary fix. The heat inside of the unit, combined with pressure from the belt, softens the plastic enough to melt it back to a smooth form. I think this is why I initially had good luck with the sanded units and then they degraded over a period of 3-4 weeks and made noise again. They could have added a more aggressive texture, or made the pulley out of something other than plastic to interface better with the belt. Or they could have just made the pulley grooved corresponding to the belt like every other trainer that does not have this problem.
I’ve not had any issues (other than the belt torque noise) and can’t see what caused this or when it happened. Makes me think I may have a return from my reseller.
This is the same scrape pattern I had. I ended up only bolting down the case 80% or so of the way to create some room. That solved my noise issues. Haven’t heard from Saris yet.
