Rotor inpower mtb powermeter

Hi guys!
I am not the best at mechanic things so i will ask here…
Is chainring in this pm compatible with my sram nx eagle? Currently i have dub, what bb should i get? Orbea oiz has fp92 standrad, so i guess that the same as bb92?

This is around my budget, so i find it very interesting option to upgrade my Oiz.

Thanks for your time and help


BB: Check the RotoR manual for finding the correct BB (seems to be PF4130 for a BB92 frame), see The complete guide to bottom bracket standards - BikeRadar for a run down of all the variants available.

Chainring: RotoR’s DM chainring is stated to be compatible with 9/10//11-speeds but as the inner width of the chain is same as for 12 speed this will most likely work well (I’m currently running a 11sp chain on the 12sp Eagle chainring on my XC MTB).

But. With a SRAM NX Eagle DUB cranks you have the 3 bolt interface to tighten the chainring/spider meaning that for about the same money you could get something like the Power2Max NG Eco and avoid the hassle of replacing the DUB BB (which IMHO should be considered a better solution than using 4130). Get a BCD104 chainring to match and you’re good to go.

Thank you!
The thing with p2m is, they are not sure if there will be enough clearance for the spider, do any of you guys know if p2m can be fitted on Orbea oiz m50 2019?

A friend of mine got quark with xx1 cranks and could not fit it to his Orbea Oiz tr 2019

But as you can see the frames are different, and i really dont want to spend 600€ just to find out it doesnt fit :sweat_smile:


I don’t have an Orbea Oiz but use a P2M NG (boost) with SRAM dub cranks (on a Trek Top Fuel) and since the chainring sits on the inside of the spider I’m not sure how the latter could be the limiting factor for frame clearance. But sure, it would be a bummer to pay ~600 euros only to figure out that the PM doesn’t fit. :upside_down_face:

If replacing the BB, take into account that for PF-frames it’s critical to have the right tools for extracting and mounting the new BB-cups. A good LBS should be able to help as well, but this should also be accounted for in the budget allowed for the change.

Thats what it looks like…
With my road bike it was so easy, 4iiii left crank, swap, ride😀

I was about to buy p2m, but when my friend could not fit quark to his Oiz i started to get a little caucious(if thats even a word lol):joy:

FWIW This is how it looks on my bike

It doesnt really show how close the chainring is to chainstay, i guess thats where p2m people think would make contact

Ah sorry, I got the impression that the clearance issue was with the spider vs the frame’s BB (area) as the distance between chainring and the frame’s chain stay highly depends on the chainring size chosen. Which chainring size are you running today and with which chain line ?

As an example, a 34T chainring has 4 mm larger radius than a 32T which in its turn has a 4 mm larger radius than a 30T, see Chainring Diameter by Tooth Count – Wolf Tooth Components. Furthermore mounting a non-boost crank set on a frame designed for 148 mm boost will move the chainring 3 mm further inboard towards the seat tube than the frame was designed for which of course affects chainring clearance in a negative way.

Sorry for late reply, i use 34 chainring and 52mm chain line(boost)