My current setup is 1-2 sizes too large. I have been professionally fit to it as best can be done but the frame geometry is limiting and leads to some undesirable physical adaptations (e.g. low back issues).
I ride 4-5 days per week, 90-95% of the time inside on a trainer in the early morning. When I do get outside it is primarily for long endurance rides, centuries, and fondos.
All frames are carbon, the same geometry, and include integrated cockpits.
Just a note, I’m assuming this is your only road bike. If you have multiple bikes, I would lean towards the option that shares the most components with the other road bike you have. Way easier to maintain spares, etc.
Also assuming the frame weight differences aren’t more than 2 pounds or so.
@wake, good points. My current bike is so old (2010, rim brakes) that there is little to share between the two bikes. I will keep it as an N+1 but will almost certainly sell the rim brake carbon wheels to help fund the new bike, keeping just the stock aluminum rims for the oldie.
I don’t know the exact weight differences between the new bike frames but almost certainly less than two pounds.
Are you looking to buy right away? I didn’t see Ultegra Di2 12 speed as an option. Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE 11 speed Ultegra Di2 (it’s on my Roubaix I got last year) but if I were in the market now that might be a factor.
Canyon has an Endurace with Di2 that would make me think twice about the Roubaixnif I were in the market right now.
@Dubadai, thanks for the info. I’ve seen a couple of article about not running hookless on the road. I’m definitely a little wary of doing it, and even if I did get the bike with the Zipp 303 S I’d still get cheap aluminum wheels for use on the trainer (front wheel) and as a backup set for the carbon rims. Thanks!!
Personal opinion here, but unless you have a jones for electronic / wireless shifting, I’d skip the Rival stuff (especially if it costs more). That stuff weighs a ton, especially the crank. Paying a premium for that, when Ultegra mechanical works so well, just seems to be a waster.
Again, unless you gotta scratch that itch and don’t want to pay for Force.
@Jhardisk, your question is the exact reason I setup this pole - to get objective opinions based on the few facts provided. Looking (ok, drooling) over new bikes leads to emotional decisions rather than fact-based ones.
TBH, I’ve never had electronic shifting and am scared for my current and future wallet that once I get it I’ll never want to go back. My Ultegra rear derailleur on my current bike has been rock solid. The front derailleur, which has been either 105 or Tiagra, on the other hand, shifts like it’s caked full of salt (which is probably is).
@FrankTuna, very good points. My Frame Finder Fit indicates I prefer a more aggressive fit (stack 565mm, reach 395mm) than endurance bikes offer, including the Canyon Endurance and Specialized Roubaix. For some reason the endurance bikes are much more affordable than their race or all road equivalents, though, which makes them appealing. However, I’m (hyper) sensitive about getting another bike that doesn’t fit well given my current experience.
I feel your pain. I just bought a Tarmac SL7, with 2x12 Etap Red AXS. It is absolutely glorious. A true game changer! I will race the ever living sh*t out of it, and drag it up every mountain I can get my legs on. That said, it’s a HUGE luxury purchase, and way too much bike for me and my amateur racing aspirations. I’m grateful that I got a hefty bonus this year, and needed to do something for “me.”
HOWEVER, I’ve got a bike sitting on my trainer full-time, full mechanical Ultegra. It’s perfect for that purpose. I maintain it impeccably, and it gets way more winter saddle time than my SL7 ever will.
Unless you’ve got a buttload of cash you don’t know what to do with (and even then, it’s questionable), stick with what you’ve got, and work on the engine. There are always the biggest gains to be made there.
100% right… I got Di2 Ultegra on my roadie a few years back and it’s REAL tough to go back to mechanical! That being said, if money is no issue, good set of carbon hoops, wireless shifting definitely a luxury you will enjoy outdoors. If you’re not particularly concerned about speed (e.g., Fondos), look more for reliability than aero/weight savings (I LOVE DT Swiss hubs… I have a set of 350s and 240s… super smooth, deadly quiet, and my mechanic swears they’re bomb-proof). There’s nothing wrong with mechanical shifting… I still enjoy jumping on my CX bike with 105/Ultegra mechanical and it works as well as it did in 2012 when I bought it.
TBH, 105 today is likely miles ahead of Dura-Ace was even 5-8 years ago (no clue about SRAM).
More importantly… which one has a frame paint job that makes you smile???
Yes, my carbon rim brake wheels have DTSwiss 240 EXPs. I’ve had two hubs from other manufacturers fail the very first time they got rained on. The 240s are bomb proof.
So here’s the kicker - the “light frame” comes in my two favorite cycling colors - either all black with black lettering and logos, or a dark red that’s almost maroon with black lettering and logos. The “standard frame” comes in either a weird (to me) sea foam green or a dark blue (which is what I’ll pick if I go that route, which it is looking like I will). They won’t paint the “standard frame” in black or red - I already asked.
$300 for electronic seems a bargain; wheels can be upgraded down the line if you feel you need it and I doubt if the light frame would be significantly lighter that you can feel it being that they are all carbon. So that would be my first vote, however if you have the cash too hand I’d go for the full she’bang but they are not necessary
The Ultimate in a Medium is pretty close. I only wanted to mention Canyon because they offer alot for the money so I think it helps put other bikes in perspective. I rode an Endurace for a while and loved it!
Thanks! I was looking at the Canyon Ultimate but they are out of stock until this summer. I’m in no rush, though, and it might take that long to convince the boss (er, wife) that I need a properly fitting bike.
Focus on color. After that I’d pay $300 for 12-speed electronic shifting. Electronic is not that big of a deal, but it is nice. You can drop more than half a pound by upgrading to the Red crank, someday, but since you ride the trainer so much no biggie. The Rival power meter is relatively inexpensive. My hardest Gran Fondo, the most amount of climbing I’ve ever done, was on stock Bontrager aluminum that weigh about 1700g. I still have some personal bests Strava segments on those wheels.
Most of my training is outside and I like having a little extra help with a tailwind so power meter and nice carbon wheels are high on my personal list of immediate upgrades.
@WindWarrior, thanks. I have some Assioma pedals that I’ll move over to the new bike, so the fact that Rival has a PM is not a selling point for me. The Zipp 303 S are enticing for $1K, even hookless for road, and I could turn them into gravel wheels if I ever got a gravel bike. Choices, choices, choices, which are good to have but also brain wracking.